Backyard paint booth

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Dartswinger70

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Any suggestions on the minimum for painting a car in your own garage,my car is in peices,and I at lest wnt to cut in, and prep the body for paint. I dont know if I got the guts to do the final spray, but i do need to paint and cut in as I put it back together,I'm looking for advice on how to control dirt, ventilation, air comressor psi settngs etc .any tips would be appreciated. I am not very experienced at paint work, but I aint rich either,and gotta get my car back together !
 
I started doing a little paint work on my Duster. Nothing too major. But I found elevating the car (jack stands or ramps, or both) really helped things alot.

For doing the door jambs ect. Get a little detail gun. I bought a decent one from eastwood for like 40 bucks. Works awesome! Its so small and easy to control. The gun should come with instructions for your psi settings. Always set the psi while pulling the gun trigger too.
 
clean work area is imperative. i painted a whole car inside my bro's garage with no issues but when i came back after it was dry i had to repaint the whole hood. there were no signs of bugs in the shop for the 2 days i was in there but after i left a wasp had dive bombed directly into the hood and flopped all over, got stuck, and died right in my fresh paint. i should have cleared right over him. SUPER BEE he he.
 
I've painted at least 10 cars in either the driveway or my garage, and here's what i have learned.

The prep work is very important. If you can see a lump or dent in primer you damn well are going to see it in paint.

clean, clean, clean... start by blowing everything in the garage off with the air gun - shelves benches rafters, wherever you see dirt or dust. let it settle, then vacuum everywhere you can with a shop vac. don't sweep, it will stir the dust back up.

Get a roll of large plastic sheeting that they use under concrete slabs and hang it on your garage walls from floor to ceiling. this will keep the dirt out and let you hose the spray area. Allow overlap where you stop or have doors. Keep the plastic where the overhead door is so you can roll it up and secure it with a bungee or some wire to get the car in & out. Now hose down the whole thing and sweep the excess water out the door. that should take care of the spray booth.

You will need to move air through the spray booth. the paint overspray will fall out of the air into your paint and be just like dust. I use a box fan on one side to suck the fumes out, and rig a large AC filter on the opposite end to let clean air in.

The next most important thing is to have a good water separator. Water in the air line will ruin a paint job in a heartbeat. Drain the compressor tank as well.

Air pressure will vary with the type of gun you're using and the paint you are applying. if you have an old hood or body panel, practice laying down some smooth strokes that overlap about 3". I usually spray a medium wet coat first, then wait about 15 min. and spray a full wet coat next. Metallic is much harder to lay down and get the color even.

Blow the car off with the airgun outside the booth before you are going to paint. make sure you get all the nooks & crannys. Use a tack rag to wipe the car down before you spray. Hose and sweep the water out of the booth again right before you roll the car in to spray.

Now say a prayer and make a burnt offering cause you're gonna need all the help you can get.

Good Luck! :thumblef:
 
With spring comes pollen and bugs. I saw a bead of sweat drop off a painters chin almost exactly in the center of the roof panel of a 65 Mustang during final coat. :(
I saw a hair fall in wet paint on a Chevelle deck lid too. Painter had just washed out the gun when his girlfriend decides to have a close look. :(
If you want to shoot underside of hood, door jambs, etc.. , where flaws dont matter thats fine.
For the exterior shell painting, rent a proper place if you have to and pray about those accidents that can happen anywhere. Good luck
 
Thet guys have covered most of the pitfalls already, but I'll throw in a few more tips.
1. Use LOTS of wax and grease remover all through the prep and final prep stages. Put the stuff in a spray bottle, spray a small area, and wipe it off immediately with CLEAN paper towels. Don't scrimp on the towels, so if it takes a full roll, then use that many. The idea is to float any wax or grease to the top of the liquid, then wipe it off before it settles back on to your bodywork. Don't touch anything with your oily fingers after the final W & G remover cleanup, and allow at least 1/2 an hour for it to dry properly before spraying sealer or paint.

2. Go out and buy a painter's suit, with the hood, for your painting. You know, the white paper type with the elastics around the wrist and ankles. Most all of the contaminants that show up in a paint job come off the painter, not the car - wasps and bees not included. They ALWAYS land on the hood in your last coat of paint or clear. :)

3. Get a good 3M type respirator, with the proper charcoal filters and pre-filters, and wear it from the time you start mixing your paint until you are outside the booth. Also, go to Walmart and get a few pairs of cheap swimmer's goggles, and wear them while you're painting because isocyaniates WILL be absorbed into the eyes from the paint spray.

4. Use the slowest reducers you can when you're spraying clearcoat. I always use one step slower reducer that the actual temperature calls for so I get maximum flow-out in the clear.

5. Read and understand your material P-Sheets before you use any paint materials. I always have a printed copy of the sheets on my paint mixing bench, even though I've been using some of these products for the past 40 years. Cheap insurance.

6. DO NOT rush your paint job. If the P-sheet calls for 20 minutes between coats, wait at least that long. I usually give it an extra 10 minutes to be on the safe side. If you rush the job, and most first timers have a tendency to do so, then you are going to trap solvents in the finish, and believe me, they will come back to haunt you. And always try to spray in the morning before the bugs wake up to ruin you fresh paint.

7. Your final paint job will only be as good as the bodywork underneath. If you think you see a small imperfection, and then decide the paint will probably hide it - WRONG! The final finish will only amplify any imperfections or flaws in the bodywork, so make sure it's perfect before you even buy your paint.

8. You can paint it yourself, so get 'er done, and have fun. :)
 
I have painted with a Hi volume cap spray system for 20 years won many awards at shows and always painted in my garage. If you ask about any one about painting cars with a cap spray system, they just look at you funny. But I'll tell you, you have no oil or pressure problems and this system will make the anyone a great painter! Wagner has bought most of the companies whom once manufactored these systems and offers a complete system at low prices. Check it out. It will spray Base coat/clear coat, enamels and laquers with no trouble. Good luck with your project. ; )
 
To all of those who do their own body work and painting, I am jealous. It does require much more artistic talent then I have. I even went so far as taking a class on automotive body and painting and only proved I do not have the talent. I would work for hours on a panel and never get it looking right. Someone with the right talent would have it perfect in 10 minutes. I have built engines that saw 200 MPH at Talladega and cars that could run under the NHRA record at any time but I cannot paint a car. My hats off and my respect to all of those who can make the car shine. It may look easy but for me it is the hardest thing I ever tried (and about the only thing I have ever failed at).
 
Another idea is to get just the FRAME of one of the "carports" - with the little tubing frame, pre-bent corners & connectors. The kind that comes with a silver tarp for a roof. (Sometimes if the wind was strong, you can get the corners/connectors from someone else after the wind tore it up... they act like large kites). If you do this outside, it will act like an oven when the sun heats it up.

Get a roll of visquine and a WHOLE bunch of spring clamps. Drape the visquine over the frame, use all the little spring slamps to seal it up. Put a couple of box fans in one end - blowing out. Use duct tape to tape in some A/C filters to the other end. Put your car on jackstands as high as possible. Wet down the floor, sto stop things bouncing up against the bottom of the rockers.
Use a TYVEK/paintsuit & good respirator - modern paints are nasty things.

Lots of Pre-cleano / wax degreaser (like mentioned before)...

Spray early in the AM and then let the car "bake" in the sun for a few hours. It gets VERY hot once the "greenhouse" effect begins.

49T&C
 
Definitely use an hvlp gun. Some people I know have had good luck with an electrostatic setup,like used in powdercoating. Helps keep the over spray to a minimum. Use a hepa style filter on the exhaust of the garage.The charcoal in it will neutralize any solvents and keep your nieghbours from bitching about smells. As for bugs,get up early and try to learn what time they come out. Spray before they get up and allow enough time for the paint to harden.
 
The clean work area mentioned by several above is imperative. It's also a good idea to check the condition of hoses and such.

Here's an anecdote:
Years ago, I did mechanic work for a small local shop. The owner did bodywork in another building. He was putting the final touches on a beautiful '57 Chevy when it happened. He'd shot the second coat on probably 90% of the car when a hose broke about 8 feet from the connection at the wall. He had 8 feet of hose flailing around and finding lots of dust that his broom had missed (in theory, the dust wouldn't have been a problem under normal conditions) while banging against the freshly-painted hood and fenders. Oops. It's also a good idea to refrain from driving over hoses used for paint.

A few hours later, he pulled me off of a nightmare clutch job (another '57 with the original 3-speed driveshaft behind a T-10... grrr) because he had to go chase parts and the other one had to be scuffed down for a repaint. He chased a lot of parts when something unpleasant had to be done.
 
Thnks for all the response, there is alot of experienced advice here that I can definiteky use, Thanks again!!
 
Hello!
Im looking for a vinyltop to my -66 valiant signet.
Where can i bui it?
Glad for answer! Mange.
 
Ryan: If you were close by you could use my booth. I cater to Mopar guys and gals. I did my first two paint jobs in my shop and needless to say i fought the bugs and all the other crap that comes with it. Drops of moisture and all the other crap. Miss mixing the paint and wiping it off with thinner. I've been there. I have been in construction for many years(ever since high school, 57 now) and always thought that if i can finish sheetrock i could do body work and i guess i was right. My first one was black. Pretty nice if i say so myself. Always wanting to do it right i was digusted with issues that occure when painting so i just built a booth on the end of my shop that i'm looking forward to using. 16' X 30' with a down draft system with heated filtered air in. Air line dryer and 96 flourescent tubes for ability to see what you are doing. If you can't see it , you can't paint it. Vacumn the area and then wet the floor down. Air hose all the area that you are working in the best you can. Get all the light you can. Finger prints are a no no. Good luck. Let us know if you need more advice.
Bill Stone
 
here one i was playing with in my garage last summer. just an old two car garage at my house. Just an old down draft gun. time an prep work .

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