beebeeri000
Rest-O-Moder
when i was lashing them they seemed very inconsistant some were lashed tighter than what i was setting them to while others were more loose
bad city milage 2bbl
- Thread starter beebeeri000
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when i was lashing them they seemed very inconsistant some were lashed tighter than what i was setting them to while others were more loose
beebeeri000
Rest-O-Moder
so i finally tested my ballast resistor and in between it and my battery there's about a 1.5 volt drop at the battery it reads 12.66 but at the in on the ballast resistor it reads 11.16 and it was hot as crap
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Re lashing;
If the lashing is neglected, the valve stems wear a rut in the rocker arms. This makes accurate adjustment very difficult. I use feeler gauges that have been cut down to fit in the rut. I've had to remove the rocker arms and re-radius the ends.
The ballasts do run hot, very hot. That's normal.
If the lashing is neglected, the valve stems wear a rut in the rocker arms. This makes accurate adjustment very difficult. I use feeler gauges that have been cut down to fit in the rut. I've had to remove the rocker arms and re-radius the ends.
The ballasts do run hot, very hot. That's normal.
My machine shop ground a new radius on mine for $5 each ($60) using a fixture.
beebeeri000
Rest-O-Moder
ok, so yay or neigh to a vaccum amplifier?
Sam Powell
Member
Check to see if there is a voltage drop between the alternator and the high side of the ballast resister. If so, there is resistance in the old connectors, both where the connectors come together, and in the crimp joint. This will seriously impact performance. I consider .5 volts drop the maximum allowed.
Sam
Slantsix64
Well-Known Member
i would check your float on your carb i had a carter bbd on my super six set up i had poor performance and mileage i switched to a holley 2280 two barrel that also came on the super six i got 19 mpg that was street milage i had alot better throttle response its a really great carb that was with a 64 dart 904 3.23 225
ESP47
Well-Known Member
Listen to Sam, he's getting you going in the right direction. There's a lot of confusion in this thread about vacuum canisters/amplifiers. People are talking about two different things.
No vacuum amplifier is needed. For starters, I don't even think the vacuum has even been tested, correct? Get yourself a gauge. They can be had for cheap at Harbor Freight and see what you're getting. 18-20hg is good. 17hg is satisfactory. 16hg and below you'll need to figure out where it's leaking if the engine is a stock build. If your engine has low vacuum, you need to figure out where it's sucking air in at and then fix it. Trying to buy a vacuum amplifier to make up for the engines problems is a losing battle.
The two most common areas for a vacuum leak to occur on a super six is where the intake meets the head and then the throttle shaft of the BBD. There's two fairly simple ways to check. You can spray carb cleaner along where the air could be leaking and listen for the engine to rev up. My preferred method is to spray soapy water all over where air could get through. Then take the PCV hose off and spray some air up through it toward the carburetor. There should be bubbles forming where there's a leak. The leak on my BBD carb wasn't huge and it was tough to tell by using the carb cleaner method. But when I sprayed soapy water and shot air up in there, I could see it bubbling through the shaft bushings. Had the bushings replaced and my vacuum went back up to normal and my car ran much better.
Sam Powell
Member
That voltage drop is hurting your performance considerably. Based on the year of the car,and the motor, I assume it has electronic ignition, and the really degrade quickly as voltage drops. Points did not care so much about the voltage drop, but electronic ignitions do. If you go to slantsix.org I posted just yesterday a description of a rewire to bi-pass the ammeter and bulkhead connector. http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=58410
Sam
Sam
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Forgive me for disagreeing, but the drop the ballast will not make a terribly dramatic change, regardless of the ignition type, and would not normally cause a serious mileage drop. The charging current into the coil is what sets spark energy, and the ballast will lower it's resistance somewhat equalize the drop in voltage applied to the coil+switching circuit.
If it was 3 volts drop, THEN I would agree that it would be the place to first focus The voltage drop ought to be corrected at some point but is not what I would focus the OP on at this time for his poor mileage. Timing is much more important for him to tackle at this point.
As for the battery, OP, after you have driven the car around for about 30 minutes (to let the alternator do what it can to charge the battery), check the battery voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running at a fast idle. It ought to be up in the 13.7 to 14.3 volt range. If much lower, then either the battery or alternator need attention.
And, OP, a toasty hot ballast is normal.
If it was 3 volts drop, THEN I would agree that it would be the place to first focus The voltage drop ought to be corrected at some point but is not what I would focus the OP on at this time for his poor mileage. Timing is much more important for him to tackle at this point.
As for the battery, OP, after you have driven the car around for about 30 minutes (to let the alternator do what it can to charge the battery), check the battery voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running at a fast idle. It ought to be up in the 13.7 to 14.3 volt range. If much lower, then either the battery or alternator need attention.
And, OP, a toasty hot ballast is normal.
beebeeri000
Rest-O-Moder
ok sorry for not replien for a while chem got me like what life? i cleaned all the connections on the plug wires and it seemed to like that. and i do think i have a vacuume leak that i tested with propane enrichment and its either the carb gasket or the vaccume pull off. now i got a problem of my gas dissapering from the fuel filter but my oil doesnt seem thin or smell like gas so i gotta track that down though when im working on it in the engine bay i can smell a hint of gas.
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