Bad gas gauge?

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Not sure if proper and for those w/o meter, but it worked for me. I went to radio shack spent about a buck and bought 20 ohm resistor (1/2 tank).
disconnected the harness in the left kick panel connected one end to the sender wire and grounded the other - gauge worked.
disconnected wire at sender and checked with resistor there gauge worked.
pulled sender - float and rheostat was melted from sitting so many years.
Replaced sending unit gauge worked fine.
 
RedFish said:
Yeah , not everyone has a floor jack and proper stands. I do have these things but I've had this "don't work hard, work smart" mindset for a very long time..
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Yeh.....and in my case I almost can't. That's why I have a 2 post hoist, and avoid crawling under a car like the plague.
 
Yes my multimeter is that exact model and yes it was 180 degrees pointing at 200. But I did not check behind the kick panel. I will do that today and post results.
 
Ok, so the multimeter read 22.3. My gas gauge is at a little less than half a tank. Is this all correct? Also does anyone know the actual tank size a 74 Dart Swinger has? It's an original gas tank and it always takes different amounts to fill it up from empty.
 
I posted the correct resistances in the other thread, but here they are again

L = 73.7 Ohms (empty)
M = 23.0 Ohms (1/2)
H = 10.2 Ohms (full)

That is almost exactly what you should read, but of course it does not mean you HAVE 1/2 tank.

I really don't care how accurate the darn thing is, so long as I know where EMPTY is. About the only way I know how to do that is to------

Carry a spare can with a little fuel, SAFELY

Run the tank down until you think you are about out...........

Then get the car home and level, and drain it (easy if you have an electric pump) until it spits, IE "we're out"

THEN see what the gauge reads, and if not MT, measure the sender resistance again and see what you get. See if that resistance matches the gauge MT figure of around 74 ohms or so

Then, if the sender is off, you have a choice of trying to find a better one, or bending the sender arm so that it gives you that figure when MT.

Some guys have been able to "fudge" the MT figure, if the resistance is too low, by adding a series resistor to make it so, IE

Let's say the sender at "actual" MT does not have enough resistance. MEASURE it, then buy the closest amount you can at Radio shack to add up to about 73-75 ohms. If you can't get the exact figure, there is some "fudge" there. It won't likely be accurate near full.

The general opinion around the www is that most repop senders seem to be inaccurate.
 
Ok thank you, That helps a lot. I put 10 gallons today and it only went to half a tank. Thats why I asked if anyone know the max capacity of a standard gas tank.
 
Your first post stated the gauge wouldn't go to full. That's why i suggested fill it up and check for 10 Ohms. Where you are testing ( the middle of the range ) is worthless in diagnosing.
 
I am testing with a full gas tank. I just find it curious that this time it took 10 gallons and last time it took 8 gallons, the rest of the times have also been inconsistent.
 
Dartalltheway said:
I am testing with a full gas tank. I just find it curious that this time it took 10 gallons and last time it took 8 gallons, the rest of the times have also been inconsistent.
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OK so If I understand now... The tank is full, The gauge says approx half tank and approx 23 ohm.
Your gauge is good. My best assumption is your sender has fuel in its float and will not read properly. If the sender could/would go to 10 ohms it would take the gauge to full.
So next step , buy a new sender. Drive all the gas out of it. Install new sender.
Sure you could probably buy a float and a seal kit. If it turns out to be a bad sender, a new sender comes with float and seal kit.

as for 10 gallons then 8 gallons.. That's typical. Its a range indicator, never was a gallon for gallon instrument.
 
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