Bad Hadraulic Lifters, Maybe?

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Every Fabo member should have one of these in there tool box.
What is $10.00 to a dry start or no oil pressure? Also to test for
oil flow before start up. Yes you can easily make one,but what is
$10.00 compared to a damaged engine?
Sorry about the rant, we all make mistakes including me and have
to learn the hard way.
Hope your motor is OK.

Darryl
 

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hi, I assume you dropped the oil pump to install the new pickup tube??
when you bolt up the pump, some times the pump will hit the rear main cap bolt head and **** it. causes a gap between pump and cap flanges. the mopar race book talks about this problem. If this is the case, you had no pressure. mopar says , might have to rotate that bolt some to clear pump so it will mate up correctly. I have seen this happen before, one guy tightened his down and broke the pump base!!! there is not a lot of room there, just food for thought!!!
 
perfacar said:
hi, I assume you dropped the oil pump to install the new pickup tube??
when you bolt up the pump, some times the pump will hit the rear main cap bolt head and **** it. causes a gap between pump and cap flanges. the mopar race book talks about this problem. If this is the case, you had no pressure. mopar says , might have to rotate that bolt some to clear pump so it will mate up correctly. I have seen this happen before, one guy tightened his down and broke the pump base!!! there is not a lot of room there, just food for thought!!!
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Thanks. I'm thinking I'm gonna drop the pan and go through it when I get another full day to tackle it.
 
Sorry to say it too but if the motor is knocking and has zero oil pressure its Screwed. Your bearings are toasted at the least.

You should had primed the engine with oil before starting the engine to make sure the oil pressure was good. If its a brand new oil pump it needs to be filled with oil before it pump.
 
You wanna talk about cheap? Hit a 18" piece of 3/8 allthread with a cut off wheel to make the end a hex shape...now THAT is cheap, and I bet you got something like that laying around the shop on a sunday night.....Your not screwed, your just low on oil pressure. Get it primed before you start it again and see what you got in pressure afterwords. A tossed lifter from a broken pushrod will cause the oil pressure to bleed out of the open lifter hole, little to nill oil pressure will register.
 
pishta said:
You wanna talk about cheap? Hit a 18" piece of 3/8 allthread with a cut off wheel to make the end a hex shape...now THAT is cheap, and I bet you got something like that laying around the shop on a sunday night.....Your not screwed, your just low on oil pressure. Get it primed before you start it again and see what you got in pressure afterwords. A tossed lifter from a broken pushrod will cause the oil pressure to bleed out of the open lifter hole, little to nill oil pressure will register.
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thats what i use pishta,works great.didn't want to wait for mail order....:violent1:
 
I agree you should ALWAYS use a priming rod to check for oil pressure before firing the engine. That way you'll know everything is allright before you ever start the engine and potentially damage things. Anymore I don't even trust new oil pumps after seeing some garbage in the relief valve of a brand new supposedly "tested" Mellings oil pump. I always completely disassemble them and clean them and check the clearances before they go in. Only costs a 19/32" relief valve plug and 1/2 hr. to make sure everythings right with the pump. 73Swinger318 I hope this turns out to be a minor learning lesson, nothing major.
 
fishy68 said:
I agree you should ALWAYS use a priming rod to check for oil pressure before firing the engine. That way you'll know everything is allright before you ever start the engine and potentially damage things. Anymore I don't even trust new oil pumps after seeing some garbage in the relief valve of a brand new supposedly "tested" Mellings oil pump. I always completely disassemble them and clean them and check the clearances before they go in. Only costs a 19/32" relief valve plug and 1/2 hr. to make sure everythings right with the pump. 73Swinger318 I hope this turns out to be a minor learning lesson, nothing major.
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"I hope this turns out to be a minor learning lesson, nothing major." Yeah me too.
 
fishy68 said:
I agree you should ALWAYS use a priming rod to check for oil pressure before firing the engine. That way you'll know everything is allright before you ever start the engine and potentially damage things. Anymore I don't even trust new oil pumps after seeing some garbage in the relief valve of a brand new supposedly "tested" Mellings oil pump. I always completely disassemble them and clean them and check the clearances before they go in. Only costs a 19/32" relief valve plug and 1/2 hr. to make sure everythings right with the pump. 73Swinger318 I hope this turns out to be a minor learning lesson, nothing major.
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We were told that way back in the 1980's by our shop teacher. We laughed as he said you should always inspect a new oil pump but it turns out he was correct.
 
Found the problem. Looks like the drive shaft is rounded off too. Whats the best way to get the shaft out?
 

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shaft might have siezed into the bushing. If you can come from the bottom with a long thin punch and drive the shaft out the bushing might come with it. The bushing can be installed in the car but it should be swedged with a install tool. I found the tool on ebay pretty cheap. With the HV pump you have I suggest the heavy duty intermediate shaft. Can't remember the p/n but mopar performance sells them.
 
found the shaft p/n-P3690715 mopar performance. The bushing tool is a miller C-3053 and the bushing is available aftermarket on ebay as well. Hope it goes together good!
 
I sheared the hex off on a factory engine. don't know if they are still out there, but I bought a hardened shaft, from the old Ed Hamburger company, maybe it was from Mopar?
 
hate your pump shaft messed up on you,..hope nuttun else was damaged....


to those who posted i was wrong....:booty:
 
Looking at that pump,, I'd say it never turned, or stopped turning, and the shaft kept turning ,,

I'd want to find out what stopped the gears in the pump..

Everything but pump and the shaft will likely be okay.. my .02

Tap the shaft out from the bottom.. use a 3/8 extension, or your primer, gently, perhaps.

And before installing the new pump,, try turning it by hand.. .
 
You gotta prime a new oil pump with oil before installing it; if you did not it never suck any oil up and just froze from lack of oil.

Pour some oil in from the top of the oil pump and then I like to drop the pump in a small tub of oil and spin away to get it working. Messy but works. You never ever install a dry oil pump--unless you can pressure feed the oil lines from the filter area--shop equipment stuff most of us do not have
 
Got my parts Wednesday. Had plans to put them in this week in but some stuff went down at work yesterday so I'm working out of town this week end.:(
 
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