Bad Pilot Bushing Symptoms?

[440fury]

Good Afternoon Everyone,

Ran into some issues with my Duster yesterday, and I am looking for anyone who may have had a similar issue.. This is the first time driving the car any serious distance in about a year - last year was quite busy planning a wedding!

First, a description of the initial situation and the problem:
1. Driving back home from work, 45 minute ride mostly highway, with no issues.
2. After cruising down some back roads, I notice it is a bit harder to shift than normal.
3. After about another 5 minutes of diving, a loud whirring / grinding noise would occur when the car was rolling, already in gear, with the clutch in. This noise would stop IMMEDIATELY after letting the clutch out.
4. I want to add emphasis - the noise was not when shifting gears, but after the car was already in gear and the clutch was still disengaged.

After I got home:
1. Removed inspection cover and checked for clutch disengagement when the pedal was pressed - seemed very normal, no sticking clutch.
2. Removed transmission and clutch. Clutch / pressure plate / throw out bearing seem perfect (they have less than 5,000 miles).
3. Transmission was difficult to separate from the bellhousing - I have installed and removed this transmission about 5 times, and it has never been that difficult, so I am reasonably confident it is not the bellhousing.
4. Pilot busing has deep rotational grooves - not linear "in-out" grooves from a rough install. No damage on the input shaft.

My theory:
I believe the pilot bushing was damaged by insufficient lubrication or grit getting into the pilot busing. Since the bushing surface was damaged, I believe that it was starting to "grab" on the input shaft of the transmission after long drives, which is why it was difficult to shift. I am hoping that the noise was the input shaft spinning against the damaged bearing.

Has anyone experienced anything like this?

Follow-up questions/remarks - this is asking a lot, but if anyone has any of this info from a past struggle, I would greatly appreciate it.
1. Input shaft has small amount of play - this seems normal to me.
2. Input shaft has tapered nose - this seems normal to me, but the taper may have been added by a PO.
3. What is the factory OD of the input shaft?
4. What is the factory ID of pilot busing?

Thank you!

 

[Demonracer]

Get the OD of the crank and the input shaft. Replace the bushing with a good sealed bearing. I did this on my 68 Barracuda over 25 years ago, it was in the car when I sold it and the now owner says he's put three clutches in the car and is still using the same bearing.

 

[440fury]

Get the OD of the crank and the input shaft. Replace the bushing with a good sealed bearing. I did this on my 68 Barracuda over 25 years ago, it was in the car when I sold it and the now owner says he's put three clutches in the car and is still using the same bearing.

The engine I have is drilled for the "true" 4-speed bushing. Are you saying use the "auto crank" style of adapter bearing, and leave out the bushing? Either way, thank you very much for the input.

 

[AJ/FormS]

No
You get a ball-bearing assembly that fits on the input gear where the bushing would normally go; and the OD fits in the recess on the crank where the Convertor hub would normally go.
If your regular pilot-bushing is damaged, I would either pull it out or ream it. but
if not, I left mine in there 25 years ago, and it hasn't made any trouble.

Ok wait, if you're talking "auto-crank " bushing, then No.
But if "auto-crank" ball-bearing, then yes, lol, as above.

 

[440fury]

No
You get a ball-bearing assembly that fits on the input gear where the bushing would normally go; and the OD fits in the recess on the crank where the Convertor hub would normally go.
If your regular pilot-bushing is damaged, I would either pull it out or ream it. but
if not, I left mine in there 25 years ago, and it hasn't made any trouble.

Ok wait, if you're talking "auto-crank " bushing, then No.
But if "auto-crank" ball-bearing, then yes, lol, as above.

Hey AJ,

I believe we are talking about the same thing. I call it the "auto crank" bearing, since it's what you have to use when you have the automatic crank without the machining for the bushing. Shown below.

I don't have anything against this bearing, but I usually defer to OEM methods. My crank is drilled / reamed for the pilot bushing, but I never reamed the bushing itself after install. I looked up the ID of the pilot bushing and its 0.754". I don't know how much of an interference fit is between the crank and the bushing. I don't work with interference fits often enough to know how much the OD interference will affect the ID, but I could always ream for 0.750" + a couple of thou.

 

[plumkrazee70]

The roller bearing setup was factory for the later model stick shifted mopar vehicles. It's a common upgrade. I wouldn't sweat it. Pull your old one out, install roller and roll on.

 

[Demon 408]

I don't have anything against this bearing, but I usually defer to OEM methods. My crank is drilled / reamed for the pilot bushing, but I never reamed the bushing itself after install. I looked up the ID of the pilot bushing and its 0.754". I don't know how much of an interference fit is between the crank and the bushing. I don't work with interference fits often enough to know how much the OD interference will affect the ID, but I could always ream for 0.750" + a couple of thou.

I had a similar issue with the pilot bushing I installed originally. It was not the correct bushing material and was a cast metal (magnet would stick to it). I swapped it out for the correct Olite bushing I bought from Brewers and then honed/reamed it to give a about .005 clearance between shaft and bushing ID. Measure bushing ID after you install it because it will crush/shrink when it is installed

 

[Syleng1]

If you go with the Oilte style bushing… (factory 4 speed bushing)
Drop it into a container of atf and let it sit over night before installing.
You can use 10w40 (us old timers used 30weight oil) and heated it up some on a small stove and let it heat up and absorb the oil. Never goes dry. BUT you need to verify the input shaft fit to the bushing. They should not be tight, but a slight slip fit.
Syleng1