Bad Torsion Bar, Bad Install or Wrong Torsion Bar??

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69cudaownr

69cudaownr

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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Location
Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
Quite the discovery today. I've always noticed the car had a slight lean to the driver's side and felt it sat low. So this week I read up on the torsion bar adjustments and found the proper level measurements etc. then went at it today. First off the car was sitting at almost a 0 difference when it should be at 1 3/8 for a Barracuda. So I figure I'll raise it up and went to adjust the torsion bars. That is when I noticed the driver's side adjustment bolt is adjusted in almost 1 1/8" deeper than the passenger side. But the driver side sits about 1/4" lower that the passenger side. I then notice the "arm" that the end of the adjustment bolt pushes to put tension on the torsion bar is hitting the frame. That's how far the bolt has been adjusted in. I then notice the rubber bumper (proper term?) that is supposed to hit the frame is missing!
I'm guessing its one of three things and my question to the experts:
1. Is it a badly weakened torsion bar?
2. It appears that if I removed the torsion bar, ratchet the adjustment bolt out almost completely and let the tension arm come down that the torsion bar may fit in. What I am saying ....... Is it possible the torsion bar was installed wrong?
3. Or is it possible there is a 6 cyl torsion bar in their by mistake? It is a small block car from stock.
Btw the passenger side is 1/8" from resting on the rubber bumper. I'm embarrassed to say how long I have been driving it this way but I had an alignment done years ago and its the only front end work the car has ever had while I've owned it.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks
P.S. I know an alignment will be needed after all this and I won't be going back to the same place.
 
look at the end of the bars that’s in the socket on the cross member and tell use what the numbers
are on them. The end where the keeper ring is.
 
I would look at the cross member end to be sure it is the same side to side, and not rusted, the round metal with the hex inside has been known to rust from the crossmember and rotate
 
If it is hitting the frame that tells me the inner bushing is bad. Look at where the control arm bolts to the K member and see if the rubber is coming out.
 
Torsion bars go bad after time I had the same problem with my 74 duster. I put new torsion bars and new lower control arm bushings on it it’s been perfect ever since.
 
Ok guys when looking at it closely I did notice the upper control arm bushings were bad. The front end could probably use a new bushing kit all around. I'll check to make sure it hasn't twisted or broke away at the cross member and I'll check the part number when under it in about an hour or so. If everything is sound then I am likely looking at a bad torsion bar. Thanks for the feedback.
 
Update,
The torsion bars are 892 and 893 which are correct for the car.
The lower control arm bushing......there is no sign of it. Not a piece of rubber left, just the sleeve!
Cross member connections seem solid.
I'll be buying a full bushing kit for the front end and it is a great time to install a Kelsey Hayes disc brake set up I have had on the shelf for 2.5 years. Thanks for the help guys.
 
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