ballast resistor help needed

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discharger1332

discharger1332

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i recently did the mp electronic ignition conversion to a 318 in a 72 dart. got it all tuned and running nice, after idling for a couple of min. it died. now it wont start at all. coil isnt putting out any spark, so i swapped it for another i removed from a running car w/ elec ign. still nothing? so now i figure maybee ballast resistor? not sure what to ask for at parts store, as this ballast came with the ignition kit? anybody know what ballast i need?
 
discharger1332 said:
i recently did the mp electronic ignition conversion to a 318 in a 72 dart. got it all tuned and running nice, after idling for a couple of min. it died. now it wont start at all. coil isnt putting out any spark, so i swapped it for another i removed from a running car w/ elec ign. still nothing? so now i figure maybee ballast resistor? not sure what to ask for at parts store, as this ballast came with the ignition kit? anybody know what ballast i need?
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It would be helpful if you'd tells what it came with. These are easy to check, simply turn the key to run, and use a meter to check voltage to ground on both terminals (if 2 terminal) of the resistor. One should be "close to battery," and the other will be quite low, anywhere from 4-8 volts

You need good clean power from the ignition run buss, as well as a SEPARATE power coming from the IGN switch in start for the coil resistor bypass. Many of these cars are now suffering from damage to the bulkhead connector and other areas.
 
If it was running then died & now cranks but wont start. It is NOT the ballast resistor. It is only there for the initial engine start then the ign. switch goes to the run side.
 
i have never had to use a ground in the past, but when testing the ballast i did notice the bolt in the ecu didnt ground the volt meter, but the screw in the washer bottle did. i mite have another ecu, how can i make sure its grounded?
 
OK, now check your cranking voltage. Hook a meter to coil+ and engine block and crank the engine USING THE KEY. You should get at least 10.5V and in no case less than 10

If not, your bulkhead connector or ignition switch connector or switch is flakey

Another thing you can try in this same vein is to hook a clip lead from the coil + terminal to the battery stud on the starter relay and see if it fires.

IF not, check the connectors at the ignition, ECU, ballast, and distributor. Work them in/ out to scrub them clean, and feel for tightness, and inspect them for corrosion.

Put your meter on low AC volts, hook to the two distributor terminals at the dist. connector, and crank the engine. You should get about 1V AC

Inspect the cap, rotor for damage, grease, carbon, moisture.

Inspect the reluctor/ pickup for rusty debri, strike damage

You key has a separate wire, brown "IGN2" which goes to the coil + side of the ballast, l and supplies starting power with the key in "start." If this is not intact, it usually won't start.

The ECU MUST HAVE a good ground.
 
...........sand the paint off the ba
ody and ecu and install a ground wire from ecu to another good ground.........kim.........
 
discharger1332 said:
i have never had to use a ground in the past, but when testing the ballast i did notice the bolt in the ecu didnt ground the volt meter, but the screw in the washer bottle did. i mite have another ecu, how can i make sure its grounded?
Click to expand...

all mopar ECU's pull there ground from the case, if it wasn't grounded you likely fried it;

you can check ground like you did with a test light; but make sure your postive cable is disconected and your test light aligator clip is hooked to the postive insted

that way if you have no ground you won't fry it before you have a chance to get it running
 
If you only have 11.5 supplied there chances are you dont have a full 12 volts on any circuit. Everything in the car will work better if you hunt down and correct the weak connections.
 
RedFish said:
If you only have 11.5 supplied there chances are you dont have a full 12 volts on any circuit. Everything in the car will work better if you hunt down and correct the weak connections.
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battery could also be a little low; I would focus on getting it running before rewiring it for more power
 
so i switched out the ecu, got it grounded, presto it lives again. warm it up then when i put it in gear it died. i was frustrated and had stuff to do so i walked away at that point. i hope i didnt toast this ecu?
 
66plyValiant said:
battery could also be a little low; I would focus on getting it running before rewiring it for more power
Click to expand...

If hes got less than 12 while the starter isn't running, the brown ignition wire that supplies the 12 volts to the coil for start may be way low while the starter is running. It has to have 12 volts to start.
 
thanx guys for all the great advice. seems to be good now. i went back this morning and checked all connections and cleaned up all the grounds, she fired right up
thanx again
 
you are having troubles man, sorry to hear

ditch all that mopar EI and ballast and get you an HEI set-up. i had every problem you are having. once i put on the HEI from Trailbeast , my car has been running perfect!
my hot-start issues have almost completely disappeared.
 
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