Band adjustment ?

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AdamR

AdamR

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Chirs, How about telling us the proper way to adjust the bands in our 727/904s ??

I havent touched mine in 7 years. I should probably give them an adjustment by now.
 
I'm curious as to how Chris does this too but while we're waiting I'll give you my procedure.

I like to snug them down making sure they are sitting square then back off while prying down the lever until I have at least 1/4 to 5/32 inch of clearance between the apply lever and the servo or servo rod. I like to make sure I have enough clearance with the band released so as not to drag on the drum.
 
Chirs, How about telling us the proper way to adjust the bands in our 727/904s ??

I havent touched mine in 7 years. I should probably give them an adjustment by now
Click to expand...

Well, proper to some may not be so proper to others .. :D

The "proper" way is to tighten the adjustment stud to 72 inch lbs, and back off from there. Generally, the front band is 2.5 turns backed off from 72 inch lbs, and the rear band is backed off 2 turns. A special tool is required to adapt to your torque wrench. If you need the special tool to do this PM me, e-mail or call for info.

You may get conflicting opinions on how many turns to back off with each ratio lever, etc from various builders. No two people build an engine the same, and no two people build a transmission the same. Do what works best for you.

The not so proper way is to "snung" the adjustment stud with a short wrench, and back off from there. Some people have a torque wrench built into their forearms. :mrgreen:
HTH's
 
That's true duster 346...The paper that came with the transgo kit goes by the lever ratio, 72 in/lbs then backing off "X" amount of turns. Everyone will be different, but it should go by what feels good.
 
The bands are friction bands that hold the outside on the clutch drums to make another part of the planetary gear the output for different ratios or reverse, I think....
The allison truck transmissions I work on do not use bands, they use multiple clutch plates.
 
Duster346 said:
The "proper" way is to tighten the adjustment stud to 72 inch lbs, and back off from there. Generally, the front band is 2.5 turns backed off from 72 inch lbs, and the rear band is backed off 2 turns. A special tool is required to adapt to your torque wrench. If you need the special tool to do this PM me, e-mail or call for info.
Click to expand...

What special tool? I have always just used a 12 point socket on the square end of the adjustment screw and my in-lb torque wrench.
 
dgc333 said:
What special tool? I have always just used a 12 point socket on the square end of the adjustment screw and my in-lb torque wrench.
Click to expand...

T-1319.jpg


http://atec-trans-tool.com/product-detail.asp?gid=7&cid=2&sid=8&sku=T%2D1319
 
Why do you need an offset like that? I have always been able to reach the band adjusters with my Snap-On dial inch-lb torque wrench.
 
Im gonna drop fluid, pan and filter tomorrow and will be tightening the bands. This should be made a sticky!
 
If you have a 904 and it has the double wrapped band...the correct adjustment is 4 turns...the V8 904/998/999 trans use the double wrapped band
 
Something I never thought of..... Nice "Hemi " spec trans,small block case. Had a Trans go TF-2 kitted valve body,in it. Went to the Cheetah reverse pattern ,non trans brake valve body. Is the difference in line pressures, going to need a change from stock band adjustment?.
 
.............Abodybomber........ur front band lever ratio should be 5.0,which is a hemi spec lever ratio and it has the same adjustment spec.........kim....
 
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