Barracuda Coming Out As A Leopard?

[Daves69]

Lol, before I started to strip down the white on this nose anyone could see it had issues. Of course they were just the tip off of what lies beneath .......

Starting to show it's spots...........

The backside had a wax film that came off easy with MS and no evident pops or rust bleed. So it looks like it's mainly from the outside.

Other than recycle it at the nearest JY, how far do the ya'll go with these driver car panels?
TIA.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Is it pitted or just stained? If it's not real bad and you want it saved, blast it and epoxy prime it.

 

[clementine]

not too bad IMO. agree with the RRR. Should come out nice.

 

[Daves69]

Thanks' for the responses!

Is it pitted....

It is in varying degree for some of the heavier spots. Doesn't seem deep, but it's there and can be felt with finger nail so I'm sure it's more than it seems. I think I'm destined to be doing some strip mining in these spots.

A close up.............

 

[RustyRatRod]

Thanks' for the responses!

It is in varying degree for some of the heavier spots. Doesn't seem deep, but it's there and can be felt with finger nail so I'm sure it's more than it seems. I think I'm destined to be doing some strip mining in these spots.
View attachment 1715780530

A close up.............

View attachment 1715780550

Worst case, if it's something you wanna save....blast it, epoxy prime it, skim coat the pitted areas with filler, then shoot it with a thick primer filler. It'll look good as new.

 

[Demonracer]

It CAN be saved, I'd use it in a heartbeat.

 

[clementine]

I definately prefer blasting those areas vs sanding. I think that sanding doesnt remove rust fibers all the way....and we all know 'rust doesnt sleep'

 

[pishta]

treat the rust to chemically stop it, then fill, sand, primer and paint.

 

[rklein383]

I have had good results with SEMA Rust Mort. It changes surface rust into a stable block oxide layer.

 

[moparmat2000]

Naval jelly, $5.00 at walmart. Let sit overnight then use a steel wire brush on it. Keep repeating until clean . Then rinse with tri Sodium phosphate $5.00 at Lowes in paint section and water mix to prevent flash rust. Then primer. It Will remove all rust from the steel. Sandblasting sometimes peens over the metal and you cant get to the bottom of the corrosion to get it all out. Naval jelly will eat until it hits uncorroded steel.

I soaked these rusty things in vinegar for 3 days. Rinsed with trisodium phosphate and water. however the part needs to be submerged for a length of time to do this. The one in the LH side of the pic has what looks like a dent. This was a deep rust pit. Sandblasting would have blown a hole in the part.

 

[moparmat2000]

Heck, that nose piece is in better shape than the one I have. It's not repopped either.

 

[RedFish]

Whether Chrysler, Ford, Chevy, whatever, the nose is out front and takes the most abuse. We see it all the time in 50+ yr old classic vehicles. Lower valances damaged by boom wreckers. Fenders with filler in the forward most points, etc...
Comments posted above will get you past the "fish face". The rest of the body is a little easier. ask any woman LOL

 

[Daves69]

Thanks to all for your input. Really appreciate it.

A wire brush and some sanding persistence cleaned up heavies pretty decent. I'm gonna' try the drugs/fill/prime approach on this part. A local blaster guy will get the fenders and hood if I get 'em off and things work out right where he "can get me in".

........Lower valances damaged.......

Lol, Yes, the valance is rough but not from a wrecker. Life in the car cancer belt is tough on these things!

If a Barracuda can identify as a leopard, can I identify as a gay, black, illegal alien so I can get all the gubmint benefits?

Only in America .............. I think!

 

[moparmat2000]

I got a repop lower from AMD. Fits really nice on mock up. Epoxy primer works great on any of this stuff.

 

[coyoteduster]

bead blast ok, shell blast*uses hard nut shell casings as blast media* ok, sand blast?? nope while fine for bumpers and frames, any heavy thick metals. if the operator doesn't have YEARS of auto finish experience, RUN, auto body metal is EASILY warped and dented by a sand blaster set too high, moving too slow.. too many ways to ruin a good body part with Sand.. as for trim pieces, most are pot metal, aluminum or stainless and should only use chemicals OR just plain old elbow grease. I know i will get told different about all this, but hey just my opinion, take it or leave it.