Barracuda tire Question

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Last question for the night. Do you know if the torsion bar adjusting bolt actually threads into that lever or does it just slide inside of it??
 
If they still rub the lower lip of the fender, assuming the car is stationary and you have the wheels pointed straight, that comes as a surprise. Yes, perhaps you need to look at your ride height. But even with torsion bars adjusted up I dare say you would still experience rubbing at speed over bumps.

Perhaps you have too little backspacing, or as you comment the new discs sit out more than stock drums, hence the tire sitting right under the fender lip, in which case it would seem that even smaller tires might still rub (and would not be feasible anyway if your rims are 7 inches).
 
67ragtop said:
Last question for the night. Do you know if the torsion bar adjusting bolt actually threads into that lever or does it just slide inside of it??
Click to expand...


There is a groove in the lever (ie. part of the lower control arm) which the head of the torsion bar adjusting bolt sits in. It doesn't "thread" into the lever as such.
 
Thanks for your help guys. I am going to level out torsion bars tonight. Then maybe I should look for a set of 15x6's for the front like 1968formulas340 ran. What do you guys suggest. I have to check if the rims will be wide enough for those tires. Summer will be over before I get this thing out.
 
Now i'm in the sh**. I found the correct height adjustments for the lower control arm/torsion bar. The book called for no more than an 1/8 '' difference between the lower ball joint (not grease fitting) and the swivel piece that the torsion bar goes through. Mine was off more than an inch on each side so I decided to lower the torsion bar to see how it would effect clearance. Three turns of the ratchet and the bolt popped out. The car sank several inches to the ground. The bolt has access steel and threads missing. The block it threads into has access steel and appears to be stripped. Now what???
 
Some pics.

8-8-09 049.JPG


8-8-09 047.JPG
 
67ragtop said:
Some pics.
Click to expand...

Come on guys help ragtop out!

I can't tell by the picture if the adjusting bolt housing is striped to the point that it is not going to keep the adjusting bolt secure or tighten up. The only way in my mind if the adjusting bolt housing is damaged to the point that it will work is either a) somehow retap it on the car or remove the LCA and retap also retheard the bolt. b) remove the LCA and replace it with another one and a new or newer bolt. c) spray the bolt and LCA with good ol' WD-40 and try to screw the bolt back in.

Considering how much work is involved in b that would be my last resort. Performing a and c would be less work and time.

Do you have the motor and trans installed in this vehicle? I looked at your pictures and it seems your car sits high like it has no motor installed.
 
If I can't retap the block in the lower control arm. How would I go about removing it. I am assuming I will remove upper control arm,tie rod,sway bar, and shock. I figured I need to get the lower control low enough to remove the tension on the swivel part or i will never be able to get the block(where bolt threads into) out. What about the tension on the torsion bar?
 
You can get new adjusters from JUST SUSpension I think..

The adjuster sits in the Control arm.. If the adjuster has fallen out, the torsion bars should be virtually without tension..
 
If the adjuster bolt and block it threads into need to be replaced with new or used how do you do it with out putting too much tension on torsion bars? I have to get the swivel part out of the way so I can pull the block that the adjusting bolt goes into out.
 
It's been a while since I put mine together.. and I am no expert..

If you lift the front of the car from the bottom of the k member ( center), will that release it enough to allow you to get the new adjuster block in ?

I don't have the service manual with me, that should also help with re setting the Lower control arm..
 
I run a 215/60r15 on my 68 cuda on a factory 15x7 cop car wheel(bs=4.25") and I don't rub. It is also sitting pretty low on the front. I can post a pic later if you need me to.
 
I think that when the car's weight came down with such force the torsion adjusting bolt and slide got wedged in the lower control arm. I am going to try hammer and chisel. I don't think I can cause any morre damage than I already have. I will just go slow.
 
I didn't realize those parts was removeable. It's been a long time since I rebuilt a Mopar front end. That would help things out a lot.
 
FWIW, I orignally had 235/60-14's on the front of my 68 Barracuda and had no rub issues at all. I went to 15x7 Rallies up front (4.25" of back space) and 225/60-15 tires (within 1.4" on diameter). These would rub the lower front edge of the fender when the wheel was tuned in. I wound up going to a 215/60-15 tire up front and have no clearance issues. I also have the 73+ front disk set up which moves the tire out.

I have no idea what the Cop Car wheel has for back spacing but if it's less than 4.25" it's pushing the out side edge ot the tire out more which makes the turn in issue worse.

Here is a picture of my car when it had the 235/60-14's

DSCN0163.jpg


Here it is with the 225/60-15's

NewTires007-1.jpg


This is what I am running on the front now, 215/60-15's

IMG_0816.jpg
 
I was wrong and don't have cop car rims. They are regular steel rims I think series 40 with 4 and 1/4'' backspacing. dgc333 and redfastback did you do anything different to your front ends?? Maybe I need to run a different rim.
 
From what I have been reading, and what I have found on my 68, when you put the later model disk brakes like I did , it widens the front track . This causes the tires to be moved out of the wheel well about an inch per side. I have a rubbing issue also. To correct the problem you will need to use different rims that have more back spacing to move the tire back under the wheel well . I need new rims too !
 
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