Base Timing Questions

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340inabbody

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Hey all, can someone please explain how base timing affects start up/craning, vacuum and idle quality?

I am sure to have more questions.

Background info: Starting to tune my 340 with an MSD with an unknown/aggressive solid lifter cam. Currently base timing is at 20° and curves to all in at 3,000 @34°

Many Thanks,

Ron
 
It's all a balance. Large cam usually needs more idle timing to get a good carb tune and minimal rpm drop when put in gear with auto cars.

Too much initial and you'll get starter kickback. Vacuum and idle quality are usually better with more timing to a point.

More initial also tends to make off idle response better. Run an old 340 at tdc and then at 10-14 btdc for idle/initial timing. The way the engine runs will be very different.

Current tune doesn't sound bad at 20*, experiment with it up and down a couple degrees and see how it starts and reacts.
 
^^ In addition, be careful with MSD and timing lights. Many "dial up" lights don't play well with MSD. I don't use them. I use an old fashioned just plain triggered light. In fact one of mine!! is from the early 70's, a chrome Penske bought from Sears
 
Does more initial base timing make for a snappier or start? If so I know to the point of kick-back…
 
Ron,
The easiest way in your situation to have your cake.....& eat it.....is to use vac adv connected to manifold vacuum [ MVA]. Aggressive cam? Could need as much 45* of timing at idle. You would do that by using 20* initial & adding 25* with MVA & an adjustable VA unit. And yes, idle AND off idle response will be noticeably better...

See below

img307.jpg
 

Thanks Bewy what documents are these? Difficult to read and wouldn’t mind getting a link or copy of some sort for me to read on my own. I actually am moving towards the vacuum system, but won’t have the components for a little while still. I’m trying to make what I have work and have in the past, but trying to also understand how things work as best I can. This document might be able to help me much appreciate it Ron
 
Thanks Bewy what documents are these? Difficult to read and wouldn’t mind getting a link or copy of some sort for me to read on my own. I actually am moving towards the vacuum system, but won’t have the components for a little while still. I’m trying to make what I have work and have in the past, but trying to also understand how things work as best I can. This document might be able to help me much appreciate it Ron
If you right click on the images you can save or open them in a new window and zoom in, works a little better then zooming in on this page.
 
10-12 deg initial works well with pump gas on a normal compression engine and stays out of the kick back zone. I've experimented with full manifold vac advance and it does run very well until you open the throttle, then the quick timing swing causes a stall, so I settled for normal.

The total timing is how much the distributor can advance internally. How much and at what rpm is set with a timing light. Setting timing based on the indication at 3000 is ok if the total is limited to around 34, because it will put the initial at around 10 btdc or just set the initial the normal way at idle. To be fully advanced by 3000 rpm and have a pump friendly initial with no kick back when cranking, the distributor weight travel must be limited and the springs must be soft enough to allow them to extend to the limit by 3000 rpm.

EDIT: Revised my pic trying to show the methods. Very general.

Basic timing.jpg
 
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I've experimented with full manifold vac advance and it does run very well until you open the throttle, then the quick timing swing causes a stall, so I settled for normal.
That is not "normal" behavior. As the throttle is advanced, the vacuum the engine produces drops thus the vacuum advance drops off as a result. As the engine RPM's increase, the mechanical advance comes into play which makes up for the loss of vacuum advance timing. Some vacuum advance units can be adjusted to increase or reduce the amount of vacuum needed to bring in advance.

Opening the throttle should in no way cause a stall because of "quick timing swing". Something else is going on with your tuning to cause that.
 
I ran across the same issue with timing my car (340,unknown agressive cam). I'm not a pro but I used the old school method of using a vacuum gauge for highest reading at manifold vacuum with the advance can disabled. Once I found highest vacuum (10hg) I backed the distributor back a touch. I put premium gas in it and watched for pinging under load and hard acceleration and backed off timing a touch. I then adjusted the vacuum can. I did not use a timing light at all, I gave the car what it wanted, the distributor already had a performance curve. Keep in mind that I started with a running engine that just needed timing and carb tuning.
 
I stay away from the MSD boxes, it's not something that should be used on a stock mopar ignition system unless that's been changed.
 
Rick,

Using vacuum advance with full manifold vacuum direct from the intake instead of ported vacuum through the carb is not normal. This is initial throttle tip in from 1000 rpm or so, off-idle. With soft enough advance weight springs, it could start working at that low an rpm to counter the loss of vacuum advance, but it was just a quick check to see how it acts. I switched back to "normal" typical operation which is ported vac or not using the vac advance. Normal vacuum advance function is part throttle/low load at higher rpm where airflow is much greater than at idle and less critical.
 
Rick,

Using vacuum advance with full manifold vacuum direct from the intake instead of ported vacuum through the carb is not normal. This is initial throttle tip in from 1000 rpm or so, off-idle. With soft enough advance weight springs, it could start working at that low an rpm to counter the loss of vacuum advance, but it was just a quick check to see how it acts. I switched back to "normal" typical operation which is ported vac or not using the vac advance. Normal vacuum advance function is part throttle/low load at higher rpm where airflow is much greater than at idle and less critical.
I understand where you're coming from, but MVA does more than that. It also provides additional timing when vacuum is high while cruising. Ported VA was something the mfr's did for emissions, not performance. Your engine could certainly be tuned to allow for MVA, and you would likely gain MPG's while cruising. My point was that it is not normal for the engine to stall like you mentioned due to timing swing.
 
I ran across the same issue with timing my car (340,unknown agressive cam). I'm not a pro but I used the old school method of using a vacuum gauge for highest reading at manifold vacuum with the advance can disabled. Once I found highest vacuum (10hg) I backed the distributor back a touch. I put premium gas in it and watched for pinging under load and hard acceleration and backed off timing a touch. I then adjusted the vacuum can. I did not use a timing light at all, I gave the car what it wanted, the distributor already had a performance curve. Keep in mind that I started with a running engine that just needed timing and carb tuning.

@340inabbody I just wanted to reply to the other part of your question regarding "idle quality". Once I did the above timing work I left the vacuum can disabled and made sure my center carb (sixpack) had only part of the transfer slot exposed and set the curb idle at 900 rpm. I then adjusted all six mixture screws for best idle while maintaining the 900rpm idle target. Even with this performance cam I can drop it down to about 550rpm and it won't die when I put it in gear, it's an automatic with a 3800 stall converter. Lastly I hooked up the vacuum can and adjusted it for best low speed performance without pinging or surging.

Again, I'm no expert but the above procedure worked well for me.
 
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The best way it was "layman termed" to me by our high school auto shop teacher was like this. With retarded timing, some of "the burn" is lost through the exhaust. This is why an engine runs hotter with retarded timing. The burn is still happening in the exhaust manifolds or headers.

Another effect is the engine does not produce all of the down force on the pistons since with retarded timing, the spark and beginning of the power stroke happens later, when the piston is either closer to TDC, at TDC or even after TDC. So, just the same with reduced down force, you have reduced vacuum signal.

Conversely, with advanced timing, the burn is more contained inside the combustion chamber. Exhaust temperatures and engine temperatures are lower, since most of the burn happens inside the engine and most all that's left is spent exhaust gasses.

Also conversely to retarded timing, there is more down force on the pistons, since the spark is now happening well before TDC. There is more time for complete combustion, since the spark is introduced well before TDC. This in turn creates more of a vacuum signal, which is why engine vacuum increases when more initial timing is pulled in.

Retarded timing is why smog era engines tended to run hotter than their earlier cousins. Engines needed more heat in the exhaust to heat the catalytic converters up to operating temperatures, which was generally "around" 650 degrees. As time went on, advances were made that didn't require converters to be so hot. This is why Thermoquads got a bad rap through the smog years. They would get so hot, the plastic main body would warp and leak. It's also why they work well for performance vehicles. Generally, hot rods don't have converters and run at much cooler temperatures.

Hope all that made sense.
 
MV8,
Using Manifold Connected Vac Adv [ MVA ] is not normal?? Maybe in your world.......but not in others. GM used MVA on production cars until 1967/8, when emissions forced the use of useless PVA.
Chrys also used MVA throughout the 1970s. When engine temps got too high, a temp switch switched from PVA to MVA; idle rpm increased, which increased water pump & fan speed to cool the engine. MVA does this because it is more efficient.

More on MVA; scroll down to post #6.

www.hotrodders.com/forum/vacuum-advance-hooked-up-directly-manifold-bad-47495.html
 
MV8,
Using Manifold Connected Vac Adv [ MVA ] is not normal?? Maybe in your world.......but not in others. GM used MVA on production cars until 1967/8, when emissions forced the use of useless PVA.
Chrys also used MVA throughout the 1970s. When engine temps got too high, a temp switch switched from PVA to MVA; idle rpm increased, which increased water pump & fan speed to cool the engine. MVA does this because it is more efficient.

More on MVA; scroll down to post #6.

www.hotrodders.com/forum/vacuum-advance-hooked-up-directly-manifold-bad-47495.html
Chevy used manifold vacuum in the big block Chevelles through 1972.
 
I appreciate the feedback guys. Normal for me was 70s cars that are only 40 something now. I reviewed my '60s Motor manual but it didn't have much to say about it, although it does list timing specs for a lot of interesting mopars and just say to cap the vac line to stabilize the idle during the test and set to between 12.5 btdc and 5 atd depending on the model.

It wasn't recently that I tried MVA. I seem to recall starting issues as well with the initial was still set to 10 btdc and the vac advance was advancing during cranking and moving around if I open the throttle during cranking for a pump shot, so maybe that explains some models being set to atdc initial timing.

I'm going to try Woody's method when I get a chance. I've also had some intermittent problems with the HEI 4 pin conversion so that could be related. Pickups I've tried are around 300 ohms and min spec I found for the hei is 400 ohms (module has a current limiter so I am considering tyring a small value resistor in series with the pickup). Need to sort that out first. Vehicle was lean burn to begin with.
 
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Hey all, can someone please explain how base timing affects start up/craning, vacuum and idle quality?

I am sure to have more questions.

Background info: Starting to tune my 340 with an MSD with an unknown/aggressive solid lifter cam. Currently base timing is at 20° and curves to all in at 3,000 @34°

Many Thanks,

Ron


I didn’t read every post so I may be repeating things.

Think of the curve in segments because that’s what it is. So where you start and where you end are not the only two points to consider.

Starting point is initial. The end point is total. The combination of initial timing, plus mechanical advance and vacuum advance is your total. And you should be using VA if the engine sees the street. You can’t always but you should give it a try.

The issue becomes getting the initial right, then starting the curve at the right time and shaping the timing curve to follow pretty much your volumetric efficiency curve.

That means that at and around peak torque the engine will want LESS timing that it does at peak power. Sounds simple but you can get boxed into some hard places if your not careful.

Low compression, big cam engines will take a different curve than the same engine with the correct cam or more compression.

Or, when you are getting near the limits of the fuel you are using. As in let’s say 12:1 pump gas. That stuff gets tricky.

If you have to run vacuum advance to get the engine to idle you’ve probably over cammed it. This is easy to grasp if you think it through.

Let’s say we have a 10:1 engine with the best cam timing we can get (it’s always a compromise) and then we get the compression to 12:1 and we change the cam to match the need compression.

The timing curves will be totally different everywhere. One will want more initial. The high compression engine will most likely want less initial and a slower curve.

At idle the chambers aren’t packed as tightly with less compression so it needs more time (timing) to burn that less dense mixture. Higher compression is packed tighter and need less timing

And then there is rpm. Both combinations will have different power curves. Peak torque will be lower with the smaller cam, low compression engine.

So you have to get the weights and springs to get the curve as close as you can to match it.

This is hard to explain while typing.

At any rate, let’s say the first combo is all done by 6k and the other combo makes peak power at 6800.

Using rough numbers we can say the first combo will have a torque peak about 4000-4200. And we’ve tested and learned at 6k this engine wants 34 total and you need 24 initial to make it idle.

You only get 10 degrees of curve to play with. That tells me it’s going to be difficult to slow the curve down through the middle so you don’t kill power at peak torque. Too much timing at peak torque will kill power.

If you get the peak torque timing number wrong it will be wrong for the rest of the curve.

Now let’s see what I expect my timing to be on my garbage.

12:1 on pump gas. Peak power at 6200 and shifting at 6700-6800.

That means peak torque will be near 4500 and at 6800 it will probably only need 32 total. I’m expecting 18-20 initial. I’m hoping it’s that high. If it’s not and I need less initial it makes it harder to not kill power at peak torque with too much timing.

Just some examples of what timing curves can look like. The upshot is if you have peak timing at or worse before peak torque you are probably trimming 20-30 horsepower or more right off the top.

That’s why getting the engine on a crank dyno is so important. You have to be able to load the engine down to figure out what it wants at those rpm and loads.

It’s like making hot dogs. You don’t want to see it done but you love the end result.

And, you can’t do that type of testing on a chassis dyno because you can’t just add load IF it’s an inertia dyno. You can do the testing on a chassis dyno IF can be loaded down like an eddy current dyno.
 
I didn’t read every post so I may be repeating things.

Think of the curve in segments because that’s what it is. So where you start and where you end are not the only two points to consider.

Starting point is initial. The end point is total. The combination of initial timing, plus mechanical advance and vacuum advance is your total. And you should be using VA if the engine sees the street. You can’t always but you should give it a try.

The issue becomes getting the initial right, then starting the curve at the right time and shaping the timing curve to follow pretty much your volumetric efficiency curve.

That means that at and around peak torque the engine will want LESS timing that it does at peak power. Sounds simple but you can get boxed into some hard places if your not careful.

Low compression, big cam engines will take a different curve than the same engine with the correct cam or more compression.

Or, when you are getting near the limits of the fuel you are using. As in let’s say 12:1 pump gas. That stuff gets tricky.

If you have to run vacuum advance to get the engine to idle you’ve probably over cammed it. This is easy to grasp if you think it through.

Let’s say we have a 10:1 engine with the best cam timing we can get (it’s always a compromise) and then we get the compression to 12:1 and we change the cam to match the need compression.

The timing curves will be totally different everywhere. One will want more initial. The high compression engine will most likely want less initial and a slower curve.

At idle the chambers aren’t packed as tightly with less compression so it needs more time (timing) to burn that less dense mixture. Higher compression is packed tighter and need less timing

And then there is rpm. Both combinations will have different power curves. Peak torque will be lower with the smaller cam, low compression engine.

So you have to get the weights and springs to get the curve as close as you can to match it.

This is hard to explain while typing.

At any rate, let’s say the first combo is all done by 6k and the other combo makes peak power at 6800.

Using rough numbers we can say the first combo will have a torque peak about 4000-4200. And we’ve tested and learned at 6k this engine wants 34 total and you need 24 initial to make it idle.

You only get 10 degrees of curve to play with. That tells me it’s going to be difficult to slow the curve down through the middle so you don’t kill power at peak torque. Too much timing at peak torque will kill power.

If you get the peak torque timing number wrong it will be wrong for the rest of the curve.

Now let’s see what I expect my timing to be on my garbage.

12:1 on pump gas. Peak power at 6200 and shifting at 6700-6800.

That means peak torque will be near 4500 and at 6800 it will probably only need 32 total. I’m expecting 18-20 initial. I’m hoping it’s that high. If it’s not and I need less initial it makes it harder to not kill power at peak torque with too much timing.

Just some examples of what timing curves can look like. The upshot is if you have peak timing at or worse before peak torque you are probably trimming 20-30 horsepower or more right off the top.

That’s why getting the engine on a crank dyno is so important. You have to be able to load the engine down to figure out what it wants at those rpm and loads.

It’s like making hot dogs. You don’t want to see it done but you love the end result.

And, you can’t do that type of testing on a chassis dyno because you can’t just add load IF it’s an inertia dyno. You can do the testing on a chassis dyno IF can be loaded down like an eddy current dyno.
Thanks for taking the time to explain this. Some of this I have experienced and some of this I understand and some I am chewing on. My situation is complicated and what Ill call temporary. Complicated because I have:

Bought this 340 ignorantly…
Unknown cam with solid lifters
12:1 pistons
Mechanical advance
Automatic

I have a VA carb in a box and plan to get a VA dizzy and change over. But wanted to at least get the car moving as best as I can given this set up. I plotted out my curve and needed it to be slow because when it was running prior to the restoration it was pinging a little. I also slightly ran a little retarded at all in like 32° I did solve this or at least I couldn’t detect any pinging under load.

Can you please explain in more detail how using the VA will help me given all my constraints?
 
Everything in the tune is like a house. Your foundation, idle set up, is the base all other systems build off of.

If it has 12:1 and can start when hot with 20* of timing, large solid cam, sounds like a good start. If you have to floor it to start and it cranks a bunch, the tune is off. Fire with a flick of the key, likely very close to right.

JMO. No chance I'd put a Vac Seconday carb, if that's what you mean by VA, on that set up. Fuel efficiency is a bunch in your right foot! That's another thread. :)
 
I appreciate the feedback guys. Normal for me was 70s cars that are only 40 something now. I reviewed my '60s Motor manual but it didn't have much to say about it, although it does list timing specs for a lot of interesting mopars and just say to cap the vac line to stabilize the idle during the test and set to between 12.5 btdc and 5 atd depending on the model.

It wasn't recently that I tried MVA. I seem to recall starting issues as well with the initial was still set to 10 btdc and the vac advance was advancing during cranking and moving around if I open the throttle during cranking for a pump shot, so maybe that explains some models being set to atdc initial timing.

I'm going to try Woody's method when I get a chance. I've also had some intermittent problems with the HEI 4 pin conversion so that could be related. Pickups I've tried are around 300 ohms and min spec I found for the hei is 400 ohms (module has a current limiter so I am considering tyring a small value resistor in series with the pickup). Need to sort that out first. Vehicle was lean burn to begin with.
I tried MVA on both my vehicles and it worked well on both. If you're interested, here is what I did.
 
Everything in the tune is like a house. Your foundation, idle set up, is the base all other systems build off of.

If it has 12:1 and can start when hot with 20* of timing, large solid cam, sounds like a good start. If you have to floor it to start and it cranks a bunch, the tune is off. Fire with a flick of the key, likely very close to right.

JMO. No chance I'd put a Vac Seconday carb, if that's what you mean by VA, on that set up. Fuel efficiency is a bunch in your right foot! That's another thread. :)
What is your thinking as to why I shouldn’t use a vacuum secondary on this set up?
 
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