Battery Relocation Kits

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kent spaulding

kent spaulding

spauldo
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Looking to buy a complete kit for my 68 Cuda . I have a lot of $ into this build and would hate to burn it down by using second class mediocre trash. Anybody here have experiences good or bad with the following? CE Auto Electric or MAD? Also, any suggestions as what and what not to do would be greatly appreciated. Running MSD ignition, Ron Francis custom harness, Vintage Air Gen II and dual electric fans. Engine bay is in need of some free space!
 
I cannot recommend a kit because I do not think the kits are worth a crap; most have too small cable and they give you a ford solenoid which IMO you do not need.

I have over $50K in my Cuda so I know what you are talking about. You can easily put this together yourself and have a MUCH better system. First, you need good cable; in past years people used 1/0 gage welding cable (which works well and is plentiful). On my Cuda I used Accel Lightening Cable which is 1 gage but is very conductive and comes in red or black.

Outside of the cable, you need a battery mount (lots of those on the market or make your own). I like to install a battery disconnect near the battery that uses a switch (like toggle switch). Run the cable from the battery to the same place it would be as if the battery was up front UNLESS you are racing the car and then you will need a solenoid to disconnect the alternator from the system.
 
70chall440 said:
I cannot recommend a kit because I do not think the kits are worth a crap; most have too small cable and they give you a ford solenoid which IMO you do not need.

I have over $50K in my Cuda so I know what you are talking about. You can easily put this together yourself and have a MUCH better system. First, you need good cable; in past years people used 1/0 gage welding cable (which works well and is plentiful). On my Cuda I used Accel Lightening Cable which is 1 gage but is very conductive and comes in red or black.

Outside of the cable, you need a battery mount (lots of those on the market or make your own). I like to install a battery disconnect near the battery that uses a switch (like toggle switch). Run the cable from the battery to the same place it would be as if the battery was up front UNLESS you are racing the car and then you will need a solenoid to disconnect the alternator from the system.
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Thanks for the advice.
 
I have used several of the kits from CE Auto Electric. They are not inexpensive, but you get what you pay for. Exceptional quality, handmade, and their customer service is great. Call them and ask for Tony.
 
I would used welding cable as it is flexible and tough. The Ford type solenoid is a good idea, this makes the 10 feet or so of cable only hot when cranking.
 
kent spaulding said:
Looking to buy a complete kit for my 68 Cuda . I have a lot of $ into this build and would hate to burn it down by using second class mediocre trash. Anybody here have experiences good or bad with the following? CE Auto Electric or MAD? Also, any suggestions as what and what not to do would be greatly appreciated. Running MSD ignition, Ron Francis custom harness, Vintage Air Gen II and dual electric fans. Engine bay is in need of some free space!
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Run full length battery cables, negative and positive.
Do not try to run the negative though the chassis.
Run a full length negative cable from the battery all the way to the engine.
 
If the car is frame connected, grounding to the chassis should be fine. I do all my cars grounding to the frame using 1/0 or 2/0 cable from engine to frame. The frame has a nut welded on and is bolted solid. The rear of the car is same. Nut welded to frame and bolted solid. Never had a grounding issue using this approach.

If running EFI/computers or other ground sensitive items, run a secondary cable forward to a buss point and ground there. This is to try an isolate any noise that may be in the chassis ground from everything else grounding there.

I build most all the cable to spec order. The relays and ford solenoid are easily found or I can get them for you as well.

This is how I do my cars. Nothing is hot in front of the battery tray when the master switch is in the off position. If you aren't racing it and don't care about killing power on the big cables, plenty of other options can be done.

LGHIGbK.jpg


Just my 2 cents.
 
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crackedback said:
If the car is frame connected, grounding to the chassis should be fine. I do all myu cars grounding to the frame using 1/0 or 2/0 cable from engine to frame. The frame has a nut welded on and is bolted solid. The rear of the car is same. Nut welded to frame and bolted solid. Never had a grounding issue using this approach.

If running EFI/computers or other ground sensitive items, run a secondary cable forward to a buss point and ground there. This is to try an isolate any noise that may be in the chassis gffround from everything else grounding there.

I build most all the cable to spec order. The relays and ford solenoid are easily found or I can get them for you as well.

This is how I do my cars. Nothing is hot in front of the battery tray when the master switch is in the off position. If you aren't racing it and don't care about killing power on the big cables, plenty of other options can be done.

View attachment 1715474411

Just my 2 cents.
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Nice "if the car frame is connected"
I did not see where the OP said that he had sub frame connectors
I know of one car owner that did have a full frame (not a Mopar) that had problems cranking a hi compression big bock until he ran a full length negative cable.
 
If you don’t have a good ground from your engine to the frame a lot of weird stuff can happen. A lot of guys toss the ground strap when they pull an engine. No need for a ground cable from the batt if your engine is properly grounded, as crackedback has said.
 
512Stroker said:
Nice "if the car frame is connected"
I did not see where the OP said that he had sub frame connectors
I know of one car owner that did have a full frame (not a Mopar) that had problems cranking a hi compression big bock until he ran a full length negative cable.
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EXACTLY why the qualifier "IF" was used. "IF" not, then do what you have to in order to obtain a solid ground.

He didn't say, I didn't assume. Carry on.

:popcorn:
 
Mike69cuda said:
If you don’t have a good ground from your engine to the frame a lot of weird stuff can happen. A lot of guys toss the ground strap when they pull an engine. No need for a ground cable from the batt if your engine is properly grounded, as crackedback has said.
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Maybe yes, maybe no
As I tried to point out in prior posts it all depends on the configuration of the car.
I think you Guy's may be taking this the wrong way. I wasn't trying to bash anyone.
You need to pay close attention to the setup. It bit me in the ***, cost me money and alot of aggravation.
Yes a good engine to chassis ground is important.
You also need enough current capacity for the starter.
 
If your running EFI then I would run a smaller separate ground from battery just for the sensitive electronic this prevents ground loops.
 
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