BB Build Question-long!!!!!!!

[jeeper]

Hello,

I have not posted in this forum, although I have been on the site for awhile.I build cars with my shop students, and am fairly meticulous with our projects.

We are building a reasonable, low-buck 440 powered Dart Sport. It is set-up more for drag at this point, although I could spend a Sunday and make it into a more DD type of a car.

The car: 1974 Dodge Dart Sport

The car has a sure-grip 4.10 rear
CE Drag shocks with reinforced rear springs
Subframe connectors welded in front to rear basically
The car has a nice interior, and is pretty clean certainly from a rust and rot perspective. No rust, and no rot.
Complete Schumacher Install kit-all of it

The engine: 1976 Dodge 440 truck engine

re-ringed, new oil pump, Hughes engines 223-230 cam, heads bowl ported etc. Stocker pistons, etc. -from my limited research, it may bring 300-325 to the table. Low-comp unfortunately.

Tranny is a rebuilt 727 with good parts and a factory H/S convertor.

The plan was to get it going by spring, and run the thing through about half of the summer, and then switch over to some HWY gears and better shocks and drive it a bit and see how I like it.

I was hoping for real low 13's to 12.90's with the 4.10's.

Keep in mind, I have never owned a"fast car" other than some unmentionables that were not fast..........

The Problem:

The 440 came out of a truck with about 1/2 the brackets. I don't know for sure that I have the kickdown or all of it at least. I have some cylinder head issues that need some minor help. There are quite a few "loose ends" that can run me out of cash in a hurry. Time is another issue. Money is not a huge one, although it is a factor.

When I am done, I will have a re-ringed 440 with 7.5:1 compression. And an engine that will likely need to come out in a year to build it up.

Possible solution:

I have a student that has a 400 smogger motor that I can buy for reasonable. He is actually a former student and friend. I have an aftermarket intake, and a few pieces for it on hand.

Assuming it runs good and I can see it. I may just buy it. I have a complete 400 at home with every bracket. With the 400 I can run P/S and not spend the $ on the adaptor etc. And I can help out my pal. etc.

Thoughts and opinions?

I know it is not good to change course mid-stream. Money is not the sole issue here, but it is a factor in the build. Time and hassle are an issue....

I have a fair amount of knowledge from reading and working on the cars, but the truth is that I have not owned a running big block, and have only logged a few hundred miles on my other A body.

Also, this leaves the 440, and other parts to build a more drag based Duster, which is my car of choice. I have new fenderwells etc. on hand.

I'm just thinking about. I have not seen it run, and he may want too much for it...

I would think an RV cammed 400, with a hint of stall, and some headers with 4.10's it could be a fun ride.

Just looking for some ideas and clarity.

ROB

 

[Jim Lusk]

You've got the 440, which doesn't have enough compression, but neither does the 400. I believe the cast crank balancers for both motors are the same thickness so you should be able to use the parts (pulleys and brackets) from your 400 on the 440. I would try that first.

As for kickdown, there are four options:
1. Find and buy a complete three-piece factory linkage setup for an RB.
2. Make your own linkage to fit.
3. Lokar or Bouchillon kickdown cable.
4. Manual valve body.

The Bouchillon cable seems to be the preferred aftermarket setup and is probably cheaper than an original factory set of rods will run you.

 

[Dcuda69]

Wow,you're in a pickle! Ever think about combining the two? 440 crank in a 400 block makes 451 cu. in. in a smaller,lighter,stronger package than a 440!Perfect in a A-body. Just a thought?

 

[moper]

I would go 440. If you have a 400 with brackets, you have brackets that will work on the 440.... I would run the manual valve body and lose the kickdown. First and foremost its a race car, and bigger is always better when they are mild builds.

 

[jeeper]

Good advice there. I like the whole bigger is better thing with budget builds. That makes sense.

I will chew on this and see what he says. I looked over my own 400 and everything is there right now. All of it. All the brackets work so I am not gaining much by going 400.

That and my 440 is largely done.

ROB

 

[dartmansam]

Schumacher makes a swapkit that works like a charm. Took a 6 popper out and placed a 383 using the same k-frame. All it took was a small grinder. The only other issue is the power steering. Gearbox will be cooked if I can't find a heat deflector of some kind.

 

[Dustbuster]

You've got the 440, which doesn't have enough compression, but neither does the 400. I believe the cast crank balancers for both motors are the same thickness so you should be able to use the parts (pulleys and brackets) from your 400 on the 440. I would try that first.

As for kickdown, there are four options:
1. Find and buy a complete three-piece factory linkage setup for an RB.
2. Make your own linkage to fit.
3. Lokar or Bouchillon kickdown cable.
4. Manual valve body.

The Bouchillon cable seems to be the preferred aftermarket setup and is probably cheaper than an original factory set of rods will run you.

And don't drive it ten miles w/o the kick down linkage. DAMHIK.(I now have a 4 speed in my BB Duster)