Beat A Dead Horse Demon Suspension Recommendations

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RenVill said:
No, I have not decided yet. If you say your car rides and drives great, I doubt the only thing you've installed suspension-wise was the torsion bars but that's all I've been hearing so far on this thread. If you lay out exactly what you've installed then I can compare and contrast.
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You are right, I am reading "torsion bars alone" as "TB suspension system alone".

If you are willing to go aftermarket then you should be thinking of both as a system.

Here's my list of aftermarket or upgraded parts:

.99 torsion bars
1.25" sway bar
RCD shocks
9/16" aluminum tie rod sleeves
Offset upper control arm bushings
Lower control arm stiffener plates
Borgeson PS steering box

The full monty list is in the linked thread or can be found in other threads so I'm not going to go into costs or what parts.

I will add that if you were to just upgrade your TB's and not do shocks, you would end up with an inferior system. The bigger bars need a quality shock to control them or you will end up with a rough riding car.
 
DionR said:
You are right, I am reading "torsion bars alone" as "TB suspension system alone".

If you are willing to go aftermarket then you should be thinking of both as a system.

Here's my list of aftermarket or upgraded parts:

.99 torsion bars
1.25" sway bar
RCD shocks
9/16" aluminum tie rod sleeves
Offset upper control arm bushings
Lower control arm stiffener plates
Borgeson PS steering box

The full monty list is in the linked thread or can be found in other threads so I'm not going to go into costs or what parts.

I will add that if you were to just upgrade your TB's and not do shocks, you would end up with an inferior system. The bigger bars need a quality shock to control them or you will end up with a rough riding car.
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Thank you. This was exactly what I was looking for. I'm also looking at the thread that @dano posted on here, a lot of info there to soak up.
 
DionR said:
I think you are selling them short if you think they can't. My car rides and drives just like my 2015 Challenger R/T did.

Based on that it sounds like you have already decided on a coil over kit.
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My Challenger steered like a boat... but I do miss it.

Challenger.jpg
 
Red_Duster said:
My Challenger steered like a boat... but I do miss it.

View attachment 1715975682
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Looks nice! De-badged R/T? Looks like a non-STP equipped car?

Read several opinions that the STP suspension made for a much better driving car which is why it was/is a deal breaker for me when/if I bought/buy one. I guess the non-STP equipped cars were kind of floaty and mushy?

But that one looks lowered, too.
 
Correct all the way around, sir.

Debadged, non-STP RT, lowered 2.5" with H&R coil overs. More mushy than floaty and speed-bumps weren't fun. Long since sold since I needed something to tow.

Didn't mean to hijack though, just making a joke. Now back to our original programming!
 
RenVill said:
Below is clear as mud? I dont get it, maybe specifically ask what other info are you looking for to give a a recommendation.

The overall plan for the car is drop a 392 Gen 3 Hemi and replace the auto column into a floor manual. That being said, I'm attacking suspension first before all that.
My goal is to be ready for those upgrades and I would like the most complete kit possible to replace as much of the stock suspension parts as I can as well, including steering. I'd like this car to be able to handle semi hard canyon driving once in a blue moon but be a good ridable experience when on the street and freeway with the family in the car.
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You should search this forum and read EVERYTHING 72nublu…dammit I can never type out his name on here.

Anyway, read all his posts. You can make a torsion bar handle as good as anything else.
 
Rat Bastid said:
You should search this forum and read EVERYTHING 72nublu…dammit I can never type out his name on here.

Anyway, read all his posts. You can make a torsion bar handle as good as anything else.
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Better in a lot of instances.
 
Rat Bastid said:
Thanks!!! I was >< this close but I never get it right lol
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If you start with "@", and then some of the name, it will give you a list that match. Still need to be correct at the start, but it's how I got his username in my reply. :D

I should add that I tried it without the "@" and screwed it up, too.
 
DionR said:
If you start with "@", and then some of the name, it will give you a list that match. Still need to be correct at the start, but it's how I got his username in my reply. :D
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Yeah, no way am I anywhere near that smart. The wife is sitting here and she just said AMEN to that.

I may need a divorce lawyer soon lol
 
I have read MANY of the suspension threads and have collaborated this list of parts. Now keep in mind I haven't even driven this car but.....here it is.....

1.03 TB
stock UCA with rubber moog problem solvers.
stock LCAs gusseted with bergman pins/delrin bushings
PST 20:1 manual box
adjustable struts
1 1/4 tubular front sway with poly bushings
rebuilt my steering column

Havent pulled the trigger on shocks yet, but my reading is letting me know it wont be cheap. Ill look for something rebuildable and wont mind spending money in this catagory. All the hard work to set up a good suspension and fall short with a shock that transfers all vibration to the driver. Last advice if on the fence on any system is track someone down in your area and take a ride.

this is a 383 4 speed 67 barracuda FB

Im running 15" wheels with a bunch of sidewall.

I believe you build the best you can but ultimately drive the wheels off it and whatever car it is, it reacts in its own way. unless there is a timer involved it dont matter.

$0.02
 
clementine said:
I have read MANY of the suspension threads and have collaborated this list of parts. Now keep in mind I haven't even driven this car but.....here it is.....

1.03 TB
stock UCA with rubber moog problem solvers.
stock LCAs gusseted with bergman pins/delrin bushings
PST 20:1 manual box
adjustable struts
1 1/4 tubular front sway with poly bushings
rebuilt my steering column

Havent pulled the trigger on shocks yet, but my reading is letting me know it wont be cheap. Ill look for something rebuildable and wont mind spending money in this catagory. All the hard work to set up a good suspension and fall short with a shock that transfers all vibration to the driver. Last advice if on the fence on any system is track someone down in your area and take a ride.

this is a 383 4 speed 67 barracuda FB

Im running 15" wheels with a bunch of sidewall.

I believe you build the best you can but ultimately drive the wheels off it and whatever car it is, it reacts in its own way. unless there is a timer involved it dont matter.

$0.02
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Awesome, thank you for sharing. Not the same engine/tranny combo I'm shooting for but regardless, very helpful info.
 
For shocks I recommend bilstein. My 68 GTX isn’t a corner carver, it has all factory suspension, steer and gear stage 2 power steering box, bilstein front shocks. Rear leafs are espo +2” with air shocks. It’s surprising how well it handles, I’m sure some of you with better suspension would laugh. But I didn’t build it to carve corners, I built it to cruise Main Street.
 
I've got mostly Hotchkis on my car with a 1.08 t-bar. Everyone that rides in my car is impressed by the handling. 90 degree turn at 45MPH, no problem whatsoever. I do not have any experience driving or riding with a coil over Mopar so I can't comment on comparison between the two.

Now I'll get to your plan to swap the hemi. If you've read enough threads on here, you know it will come with some challenges using stock K-member, etc, but it is doable. I'll likely be going down that road in the future. I may end up using the Q-A1 tubular stock replacement K-Member just so I don't have to use a remote mount oil filter. Someone on this forum (sorry, don't remember who) modified the engine mounting location on the right side so an oil filter can be screwed to the block. That's a huge benefit for me personally. I know my Hotchkis sway bar won't work with that K-Member, but I'm not afraid of modifying things.




280724767_3328297010787720_3484311041876078457_n.jpg
 
racerjoe said:
I may end up using the Q-A1 tubular stock replacement K-Member just so I don't have to use a remote mount oil filter. Someone on this forum (sorry, don't remember who) modified the engine mounting location on the right side so an oil filter can be screwed to the block. That's a huge benefit for me personally. I know my Hotchkis sway bar won't work with that K-Member, but I'm not afraid of modifying things.
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I mocked up a 90 degree filter adapter on a stock k-frame using the Holley mounts and it worked beautifully. Don't remember the application but the part number is in the instructions for their mounts.

Note that this almost certainly only works with their mounts. They move the motor forward about 1.75" (per my eyeball measurements) which does several things for fitting the motor. The advantages are; 1. SRV valve and intercooler manifold clearance, 2. oil filter adapter fits and 3. stock low mount AC compressor fits (VVT only!). But it also means the trans mount, etc. has to be re-engineered. The trans location isn't an issue if you plan to do a T56 swap (or similar) at the same time but sucks if you want to use your existing TKO swap stuff or stock A833.

Holley does have mounts for trans like the TKX and such. So if someone were to do a full boogie swap, might we worth looking into those.
 
DionR said:
I mocked up a 90 degree filter adapter on a stock k-frame using the Holley mounts and it worked beautifully. Don't remember the application but the part number is in the instructions for their mounts.

Note that this almost certainly only works with their mounts. They move the motor forward about 1.75" (per my eyeball measurements) which does several things for fitting the motor. The advantages are; 1. SRV valve and intercooler manifold clearance, 2. oil filter adapter fits and 3. stock low mount AC compressor fits (VVT only!). But it also means the trans mount, etc. has to be re-engineered. The trans location isn't an issue if you plan to do a T56 swap (or similar) at the same time but sucks if you want to use your existing TKO swap stuff or stock A833.

Holley does have mounts for trans like the TKX and such. So if someone were to do a full boogie swap, might we worth looking into those.
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Good to know on the Holley mount. The problem is I would need a 73+ K-Member. Last time I shopped around locally for one, people wanted almost as much as the damn QA1! There were a few more people that would have them that I didn't reach out to, but I'm certain they would be similar also. I also don't know how I feel about moving the motor forward. That would also mean I need a new driveshaft!
 
racerjoe said:
Good to know on the Holley mount. The problem is I would need a 73+ K-Member. Last time I shopped around locally for one, people wanted almost as much as the damn QA1! There were a few more people that would have them that I didn't reach out to, but I'm certain they would be similar also.
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True. I lucked into a spare, but not sure I would want to have to source one if I didn't have one under the car already.

Maybe just keep your eyes peeled in case one pops up in the near future?

I'd love to do like the one guy did and build a jig so a /6 k-frame could be converted, except with the spool mount frame.

racerjoe said:
I also don't know how I feel about moving the motor forward. That would also mean I need a new driveshaft!
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It's definitely a problem. I would rather swap motors and then do the T56 swap later, but can't due to the motor location change. And if I wanted to keep the A833OD that is in the car currently, it would be a pain.

At the same time, I love that the oil filter and AC compressor issues are solved for me. I don't like the top mount AC compressor, alternator and truck intake. Can't say it is a fair trade if I didn't plan for the T56 anyway, but because I want to do both it makes it easy to see as a plus for me.
 
Those 73+ K members used to fall in my lap all the time. I've probably thrown a few out for scrap. I know where one is, but it is in a car that still has the engine and its surrounded by very tall weeds..... and I hate snakes!


Agree about AC comp fitting down low. I'm sure it will still have the problem with the alternator being very close to the framerail, which I've already accepted that I will have to cut and paint. Last year at Moparty, Holley had a car there with all their parts. I'm going to pay closer attention to it this year and maybe grab some photos to share.
 
After reading a shitload of threads and considering torsion bars vs aftermarket, I'm now leaning towards the Alterktion and Linx set up just because it's an all in one package and will help me move towards my end goal a bit faster. Now to save $$ to actually get it.
 
My junk is still in pieces…
I have accumulated lots of parts from different vendors. I have adjustable uca from Hotchkiss, just watched a video on a fellow that got them, and couldn’t run the wheels he wanted. I recommend you think about the brakes and tires you are planning to run. It may really kick you in the balls. Another note, headers and if you are planning on changing your PS box, that got me. Good luck
 
RenVill said:
After reading a shitload of threads and considering torsion bars vs aftermarket, I'm now leaning towards the Alterktion and Linx set up just because it's an all in one package and will help me move towards my end goal a bit faster. Now to save $$ to actually get it.
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i had both in my yellow 71 dart. loved it. kick myself for not putting it in our 70 dart ..
 
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