Beat my wife in telling me what Im doing wrong :)

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1930

1930

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I may never understand everything there is too know about camshaft theory but Im not gonna give up trying to degree this camshaft. This isnt rocket science, seems to me a 10 year old child should be able to do this successfully so why can a 50 year old man do it?

EDIT: Uh cause some knumnuts put the wrong info online :)

Below is the procedure I am following meticulously. I have tried this same procedure a couple of different times with same results.

First picture is my procedure
Next picture is where Comp cams is telling me it should be reading using the @ .050 deal
Next picture is what Im getting using the @ .050 deal
Next picture is just showing my dial indicator set-up
Last picture is showing the intake opening measurement using the @ .050 deal which is about the only measurement that makes any sense

Picture 476.jpg


Picture 477.jpg


Picture 478.jpg


Picture 473.jpg


Picture 474.jpg
 
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i took me a few times also as i had never did one.after i finally got it,i said that wasnt that hard.if you do it all the time,its easy,if you do it once,it takes longer.age had also crept up on me
 
I think #7 has you all screwed up, why would you set the pointer at 25? If you got 50 in both directions then you are at 0 on TDC.
 
bOb shingler said:
read how to do it in the mopar engine manual, way better. anyway it looks like you're at 12 or 13 degrees which is fine.
Click to expand...
Whats the mopar engine manual specifically?

jdsduster said:
i took me a few times also as i had never did one.after i finally got it,i said that wasnt that hard.if you do it all the time,its easy,if you do it once,it takes longer.age had also crept up on me
Click to expand...

brian6pac said:
I think #7 has you all screwed up, why would you set the pointer at 25? If you got 50 in both directions then you are at 0 on TDC.
Click to expand...
Sorry bad example, anyway I didnt get 50 both ways. Either way its definitely at TDC see below.

Picture 479.jpg
 
Im not giving up on the @.050 procedure, this procedure is all over the internet as the preferred more accurate way of degreeing the cam and if I got the intake centerline method to work right on the first time than why wouldnt the preferred method work properly on the 6th time.

Nothing changed except I read the camshaft in a different way.

Below is just one example of why one way is better than another and on top of that I dont believe comp cams really gives a crap about doing it the more accurate way, I think they would rather have me do it the way that makes their cam look golden.

Currently there are two popular methods for degreeing a cam: the centerline method, and the duration at .050"lift method. We believe it is far better to degree the camshaft with either method than not to degree the cam at all; but of the two methods, the duration at .050" lift is much more accurate.

The main problem with the centerline method is it has you finding the theoretical centerline of the intake and/or exhaust lobe and line up on it. It makes the basic assumption that the lobe you are checking is symmetrical, with its opening side being the exact same shape and size as the closing side of the lobe. The truth is that most modern lobes are asymmetrical, with the opening side of the lobe being much more aggressive and the closing side being gentler.

Therefore, when you attempt to locate the middle (or centerline) of the asymmetrical lobe there is an automatic error factor. It could be as little as 2° off or as much as 6°, depending on the exact lobe shape and the procedure used during the degreeing operation. Neither does it verify that the camshaft has been properly ground with the correct duration lobes, which can drastically affect performance.

Since the duration at .050" lift method is not affected by the asymmetrical lobe design, we believe it is the more accurate way to degree.
 
So it looks like you got it, Whats the problem?
 
I called this place What is Meant by Degreeing the Camshaft, and Why is it Necessary? talked with a super nice guy named Brian who gave me time to read from their site the procedure they had given.

He told me the procedure was missing a few steps ( he forgot the sites password so dont expect any correction any time soon ) anyway he gave me these missing procedures and the updated procedure is below.

I now know how to do it both ways and can get similar results.

Thanks to everyone that has been helping me and Im done with this topic now cause Im an expert :rofl:

Picture 480.jpg
 
The .050 method is outdated at best.

All you should care about is where max lift is relative to piston placement ATDC.

As I've said, way too many thing affect the .050 numbers.

Set the intake centerline and be done.


I've got a friend who is going to film me decreeing a cam. Just for FABO. Once you've seen it done once, you can degree a cam in 10-15 minutes. Hell, I can do it that fast with a 3 gear drive.
 
yellow rose said:
The .050 method is outdated at best.

All you should care about is where max lift is relative to piston placement ATDC.

As I've said, way too many thing affect the .050 numbers.

Set the intake centerline and be done.


I've got a friend who is going to film me decreeing a cam. Just for FABO. Once you've seen it done once, you can degree a cam in 10-15 minutes. Hell, I can do it that fast with a 3 gear drive.
Click to expand...

At which points on the cam lobe do you take your degree wheel readings? I've heard it's best to use the steeper points on the lobe.
 
mopowers said:
At which points on the cam lobe do you take your degree wheel readings? I've heard it's best to use the steeper points on the lobe.
Click to expand...


I read the wheel at .050-.100 less than max lift and then go down the same amount on the closing side and read the wheel again.

For example, I have a .380 lobe. I zero the indicator on the base circle and rotate the crank until the lifter rises to .300 lift and read the wheel. Keep turning the crank until you get past max lift and then get back to .300 on the closing side and read the wheel.
 
When in doubt, you can check where split overlap is. No tools required after TDc is known.
Just put #1 or #6 at TDC on the exhaust stroke. Drop in 2 matching lifters . Put a straightedge across the lifters, and rotate the crank until the straightedge touches all 4 edges of the lifters. Read the degreewheel.
On a street cam,this point is always within about 4 or 5 degrees of TDC.
Because of the shape of the lobes, it may not be dead nuts accurate. But it is a good self check, for finding your way when you get lost.
 
OMG, LMAO, I thought this was going to be about a guy who beat his wife after she told him what he was doing wrong.
 
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