BELLHOUSING FLYWHEEL AND CLUTCH
- Thread starter A/MP
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perfacar
Well-Known Member
the d dart had a weber 10" clutch, the flywheel was the 12 " same as a regular 273. clutch was a B&B, style. rock auto sells a 10 " clutch from a 225 that bolts up to flywheel. they work very well.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
are you starting from scratch or do you have some bits already?
getting the right combo of parts together that fit the body and will work together and don't cost an arm and a leg is a little tricky. some of that is dictated by how much power you're planning on making, fab skills, and what parts you currently have (including headers & engine wise).
i've run 122T and 130T set ups in 64 & 5 darts, both with steel and aluminum flywheels and with standard B&B as well as diaphragm style set ups. it's all doable, but it's tight and the selection of pieces can sometimes lead to compromises.
getting the right combo of parts together that fit the body and will work together and don't cost an arm and a leg is a little tricky. some of that is dictated by how much power you're planning on making, fab skills, and what parts you currently have (including headers & engine wise).
i've run 122T and 130T set ups in 64 & 5 darts, both with steel and aluminum flywheels and with standard B&B as well as diaphragm style set ups. it's all doable, but it's tight and the selection of pieces can sometimes lead to compromises.
I have a '65 with 904 and that needed a few dings to be able to bolt it in. I should be able to get 300HP from the build. Can I assume that a '68 factory 340 bellhousing won't fit? I'd be using the same '68 4 spd too. Car has the pedals and linkage from the '66 factory set up.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
the 130T (10.5" 68+) bell will fit, but brother it is tight. you'll need to mod the z-bar, or i think somebody now makes one (tti maybe?). and the real estate for exhaust gets scarce. expect a fair bit of pound to fit, paint to match.
at 300hp, you can safely use the 122T smaller stuff and save yourself a bit of headache.
if you can afford a hydro clutch, it takes out a lot of the complexity and frees up a fair amount of space.
doug's fit great, even with the 4spd stuff, but might hang a little low if you're setting it up for that T/A vibe, not sure on tti's but i imagine any full length header will be low. spitfire/sandersons are the best bet. but considering your HP goal, you can run manifolds and that saves you some $$ while not being as tight on space.
the external dimensions and placement of the trans are unchanged, so no worries there. it's really just the bell, linkage bits and exhaust.
at 300hp, you can safely use the 122T smaller stuff and save yourself a bit of headache.
if you can afford a hydro clutch, it takes out a lot of the complexity and frees up a fair amount of space.
doug's fit great, even with the 4spd stuff, but might hang a little low if you're setting it up for that T/A vibe, not sure on tti's but i imagine any full length header will be low. spitfire/sandersons are the best bet. but considering your HP goal, you can run manifolds and that saves you some $$ while not being as tight on space.
the external dimensions and placement of the trans are unchanged, so no worries there. it's really just the bell, linkage bits and exhaust.
Keith Mopar
Mopar Nut
Brewer's performance has the torque shaft that will work, that is what I am running with the 10.5 bell. For the 10.5 bell in an early A you need to flatten the firewall to floor pan seam. After that no clearance issues. The linkage is real tight fit if you run headers. I'm running TTI and it's real tight to adjust the clutch if needed.
ddartdude
Well-Known Member
I put a 10 1/2" clutch setup in one of my D/Darts. It has a 1999 Mopar Performance 360 ci - 380 hp Crate engine in it. Used a Challenger bell housing and got the z-bar and brackets and flywheel from Brewers. Great guy to deal with. Used the Doug's 450 headers and a Dodge Dakota starter.
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