Benefit of 3/8" line TBD

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jimmyray

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I have an original 73 340 Duster, that now has a 9.6:1 Edel headed 408, backed by a 727 with 3000 stall, and 3.73 in a Dana. Best 1/4 time is 12.35, at 109, with slicks and a 1.69 60' time, open headers and a 750 DP with a proform center. The car currently used the a Carter 4070 Eelctric fuel pump straight to the carb, rated at 72 GPH. Car is a full interior driver.

While at the strip recently (Alabama, year round racing), I met a guy who had a stroked Ford 390, pushing about 460 cubes, in a Mercury Cyclone. Through exhaust with drag radials with full interior was running low 12's. That day, he was running low 13's and could not figure out why. Late he remembered to turn ON his supplemental electric fuel pump (pushing into mechanical), and he picked up the second, back to the low 12's!

After reading about the limitations of the stock 5/16" fuel line, and the needs of a low 12 second car, I decided to upgrade to a 3/8" sending unit and 3/8" aluminum line. According to the Barry Grant website, a 12 second car needs to get about 100 gallons per hour. Don Gould at FBO asserts that a 12 second car needs 120 GPH, and that 3/8 line will only support 400 HP. In either case, I think I have too small of a line. So, 3/8 upgrade it is.

All said and done, the 3/8" line improved the GPH from 47 to 90 GPH, which is better than the pumps rating! I hope to test the results this weekend. A confounding factor, however, will be that I also installed a summit 3" exhaust system this week as well. If nothing else, I hope to be in the lower 12's without unbolting the exhaust 11's maybe too much too ask for, but the first switch in fuel pump netted me about 6/10's in the quarter, so who knows?

In the pics below, I wrapped the Aluminum fuel line in thick, loose shrink tubing for the journey around the rear frame rail (rock/debris protection), and I shrunk some shrink over tape where it passes through the torsion bar crossmember, for abrasion resistance. Fuel line follows the original lines, and is secured to the originals with plenty of zip ties. I plugged the 1/8" return on the sending uinit, since I have nowhere to route it too, and the tank is already vented, as seen above.

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Nice job routing those fuel lines,i think you'll be fine with the 3/8" line..for comparison my 416 is fed by a holley black pump through 3/8" line,running 11.0's.. when i have my 360 in it goes 11.70-80's....
 
Just an FYI...

Fuel lines on the firewall = bad idea. Lots of places won't tech you if you have the line, especially with rubber hose, attached to the firewall.

You will probably pick up a bit. The biggest benefit was likely the 3/8 into the tank. The 5/16 sender was and is a bottleneck.

Nice idea on covering the aluminum line where it crossed the frame rail.
 
Member You will be doing this with the exhaust mod, So it will be hard to see how much it really helped
 
Just an FYI...

Fuel lines on the firewall = bad idea. Lots of places won't tech you if you have the line, especially with rubber hose, attached to the firewall.

Why is that, is a safety issue?
 
Why is that, is a safety issue?

I would think that if there was a fire there, flames could come up the firewall, out the back of the hood, and right in front of the windshield. I'm just guessing though.
 
3/8 is a good upgrade,it should be plenty and work good for you combo.Im wary of anyone saying 3/8 is good to only 400 h.p.-theres alot of hype in fuel systems,thats not to say theres not a gain to be had but like anything else there is always overkill.Im excited to see your results!.
 
Looks like you did a good job bending and fitting the aluminum tubing to the underside of you car.

I used 1/2" on mine (just because it costs almost the same and I did not want to have to change it later if I went to a big block.

What I did, and would recommend you do , is to terminate the end of the tubing in the engine compartment with a Summit brand tubing to AN fitting . Then make braided stainless lines to connect to the pressure regulator, fuel pump and carb with AN-6 braided stainless lines ( I used AN-8 lines until I split the lines into two for the carb).

Rubber hose is a fire hazard and NHRA and IHRA do not allow more than 6" (or maybe 12"), even though few tracks check for it nowadays.

bob
 
Looks like you did a good job bending and fitting the aluminum tubing to the underside of you car.

I used 1/2" on mine (just because it costs almost the same and I did not want to have to change it later if I went to a big block.

What I did, and would recommend you do , is to terminate the end of the tubing in the engine compartment with a Summit brand tubing to AN fitting . Then make braided stainless lines to connect to the pressure regulator, fuel pump and carb with AN-6 braided stainless lines ( I used AN-8 lines until I split the lines into two for the carb).

Rubber hose is a fire hazard and NHRA and IHRA do not allow more than 6" (or maybe 12"), even though few tracks check for it nowadays.

bob

Great Idea, as I had not though of the fire hazard issue! One of my challenges is that I run 2 different carbs, an Edel 600 for street for MPG, and a Holley 750DP for strip. I switch tme out at the track. BTW I can sway the rears to slicks and sway carbs in under 20 minutes, and am striving for 15. Anyhoo, would those fittings be robust to multiple swaps like that, or is there a quick change fitting? Normally, I just pull the hose off the Carter, and plug it into the Holley dual line fitting.
 
You can easily change the AN fittings with a few wrenches, you may need different fuel lines to fit the different type carbs. Once you get all of the hoses made up, I find the AN fittings easier to deal with than rubber hose.

Bob
 
did you replace all the alum. fuel lines 2? or just the rubber hose?
 
Another reason you can't have a fuel line on the firewall, if I remember correctly, is because if you had a trans/convertor/clutch explosion, it'll likely take out the fuel line.
Isn't there a rule about regulator placement to that effect? It's been a while...
 
nice!!! Im getting ready to do this also haha so if it helps im there
 
Well, back from the track, and the results were impressive.

Started with 12.50's which is about 3/10's better than previous best through mufflers. Temp was about 45 degrees at start of day. I made 3 baseline runs and netted 12.50, 12.59, 12.48. Checked timing, it was running 38 degrees at 2900 rpm, so I lowered it to 34, bad launch but increased speed through traps. Lowered tire PSI from 15 to 12 psi, dropped .04 off 60' time and .04 off ET. Big change with re-jetting, from 72-82 to 74-84. Also, had some coaching on Bleach Box techinique, warming tires. Ran a 12.31, and then a Persoanl & Car Best of 12.25 @ 109.6 mph!!! Played with different shift points, but it seems my combo likes 5500 the best.

So, I got a big bump from the Exhaust/Fuel system upgrade, yielding similar time to my previous open header best. Some tuning, jetting and technique picked up another .25 in ET. So, which did what? Anybody's guess on that one. Can I sneak into the 11's? I don't know. I ran out of time or I would have tried another jet change to 76-86. I would think that would be too much, but who knows?

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I think you can becasue your best 60ft and MPH arent on one slip, So I think if you can get the Fastest MPH with the best 60ft you can get were you want
 
Oh, BTW, the 57 sequence is the 57th 1/4 mile trip the car has made at Alabama Int'l Dragway in Steele. I drive it to the strip, swap to slicks and swap the Carter 600 for the Proformed Holley 750 DP. After 20 minute changeover, I pull into the staging lanes.:eek:
 
When the weather turns cold like that you will want to go up at least 1-2 jet sizes due to the colder weather being more dense.
 
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