Bergman Auto Craft Delrin Bushings and Pivot Pin Pkg Special use code BAC10

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Let’s revive this thread.. I have new qa1 lower control arms on my 72 dart. Can I simply clean out the rubber bushing and leave the sleeve in place in the control arm and install the Delrins.
Or do I need to remove the bushing and sleeve in the qa1 and install the delrin bushing into the lca without a sleeve..
 
Let’s revive this thread.. I have new qa1 lower control arms on my 72 dart. Can I simply clean out the rubber bushing and leave the sleeve in place in the control arm and install the Delrins.
Or do I need to remove the bushing and sleeve in the qa1 and install the delrin bushing into the lca without a sleeve..

You need to remove the outer bushing sleeve from the QA1 LCA and install the delrin bushing without any sleeves

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Do you need to press in the new delrin bushing the same way as the original style ?? Seems to simple and easy. Might have to try a pair.
 
put them in our dart back in june when i did all the work to it in preparation for sick66. wish they were 10% off back then..lol

feel/sound no different then the rubber that was in there ride and noise wise. nice pieces in my opinion.and that supplied lube is sticky as hell.
 
Unfortunately, prices of materials continue to rise. I price my parts reasonably and offer the best customer service in this industry. Why people waste money on the Q arms makes zero sense to me. Get the most for your money with Bergman Auto Craft, your site supporter and contributor for over 15 years..
 
Why people waste money on the Q arms makes zero sense to me.

WOW.

Well, this is pretty simple. If you lower your car, the QA1 LCA’s allow almost an inch of additional suspension travel vs a stock LCA. So, you can directly lower your car a full inch without losing any suspension travel. That’s pretty important, as lowering improves suspension geometry on these cars but losing travel is not a good thing.

Yes, the current version of the QA1 LCA with it’s included bump stop will need some modification to do this, but the way the bump stop was added to the LCA makes it pretty simple.

And then they weigh about 8 lbs less, which is actually pretty substantial given their location.
 
I never had an issue with stock arms and 11/16" bump stops. Like I said, wasting money on a new arm with a rubber bushing is ridiculous. Stock arm, thin bump stops, reinforcement plates and our delrin bushings/pivots. I have tons of street miles, auto X and open track events as proof. Its not really a debate in my eyes...Save your money and buy the forged upper arms so you have a taller ball joint and the ability to run 7 degrees of caster while maintaining reasonable negative camber (-.5) which helps straight line tracking.
 
I never had an issue with stock arms and 11/16" bump stops. Like I said, wasting money on a new arm with a rubber bushing is ridiculous. Stock arm, thin bump stops, reinforcement plates and our delrin bushings/pivots. I have tons of street miles, auto X and open track events as proof. Its not really a debate in my eyes...Save your money and buy the forged upper arms so you have a taller ball joint and the ability to run 7 degrees of caster while maintaining reasonable negative camber (-.5) which helps straight line tracking.

An inch of suspension travel makes a heck of a lot more difference then a delrin LCA bushing does vs a poly bushing when it comes down to handling. More travel means the wheels stay on the ground longer, lower CG means better handling.

Look I’ve run stock LCA’s with reinforcing plates and thin bump stops. Yes, they work, but at the ride height I run (a-b= 0) you lose suspension travel if you do that, it’s just a fact. And I’m running 3/8” bump stops and 1.12” torsion bars. I still use ALL of my suspension travel, which remains close to 5.5” of total travel at the wheels.

The QA1 LCA’s are absolutely worth the money. The difference in CG at a lower ride height improves handling. The suspension geometry at the lower ride height is better. And being able to maintain the factory amount of travel keeps the wheels planted longer. It would be nice if they didn’t come with rubber bushings, but I understand from a production standpoint why they do. It’s easy enough to change them out for poly bushings and those are cheap, or Delrin bushings which are not. And I’ve been running the QA1 LCA’s on my Duster for over 7 years now, with over 25,000 miles on them (and your Delrin LCA bushings) in that time.

Don’t get me wrong, I love your Delrin LCA bushings, and I run your SPC UCA’s with delrin bushings, your idler arm bearing, and more stuff I don’t even recall at the moment and have another set of SPC UCA’s to buy for my Challenger yet. But the QA1 LCA’s aren’t junk, and while they are expensive the benefits they add are absolutely worth the price of the LCA’s. Does everyone need them? Of course not. But not everyone needs SPC UCA’s or delrin bushings either.

I’m honestly kinda surprised you’re arguing against them, given that I know you understand the importance of ride height and suspension geometry for getting one of these cars to handle well, and they allow changes that improve both significantly without losing suspension travel which is also critically important on a handling car.
 
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