Best 273 and 318 builds (NO 360's please)

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mean318 said:
I will be running it in Hockenheim this year in August on a prepared track and I am very anxious to see how it will run.
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Cory: for sure you will need some staff there to prepare the car or measure tire pressure etc., won´t you? let me know if there´s a free seat in your dakota...:-D

greetz Michael
 
Valvebounce said:
yeah the bloke who made it reckoned it was a POS. hence why I hunted down an LD4B for my engine.
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Not unless there was some amazing work I can't see.

I think the best intakes would be ethier the Edelbrocks LD4B or Performer or a Weiand Action plus for the 318 or the RPM/Stealth intakes for the larger engines doing street duty or street/strip duty.

Otherwise, the earlier intakes have been out done very well with the newer ones. IF an older intake can be had cheaply, then you could make do with it and work around it.
 
moper said:
That intake looks cool in terms of workmanship. But if you're out to make power, the workmanship went into making the 4bbl attach. Not power. The runners are flat, the turn from plenum to runner is 90°, and the floor of the plenum is shallow and flat. 90° truns suck. Partially mixed fuel will come out of suspension and puddle in the plenum and the roof becomes a big turbulent mess where typically the best smoothest flow should be. I would say if your intention is to use it, I'd suggest epoxying the center of the floor and shaping it to turn the air better, adding pcs to help divide teh plenum as the ports are entered, add about 1.5" of height to the carb pad and put a much more generous radius on the transition from carb baseplate to port roof. The down side is, you do all that, you still only have a small cross section port. So a smaller engine will need to rev to use it and a larger engine will be out of breath early.
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I think a carb spacer might help. It wont change the angle of the turns but it will give more plenum space,extent the runners and will make that 90 deg turn a little less tight.

Might be fun to experiment!
 
360duster said:
Cory: for sure you will need some staff there to prepare the car or measure tire pressure etc., won´t you? let me know if there´s a free seat in your dakota...:-D

greetz Michael
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Hey Michael wie gehts!! Any luck on that motor? Hell yeah I will let you know as it stands there is one seat still open.
 
This is the street motor I built for the Demon. Like a couple of others here, the 318 is an interim engine until it either blows up or the budget makes a Gen III hemi feasible.

Here's the specs:

Block, rotating and reciprocating parts come from a 1968 Dodge Coronet. Front cover and cylinder heads are from a 1988 Dodge truck, damper and pulleys are from a ’75 Plymouth.

Cast pistons replaced with hyperutetic of identical measurements ('68 spec, flat top, 4 valve reliefs).

Compression ratio 9.3:1 (as measured)
Bore 3.91 inches
Stroke 3.31 inches

Double roller timing chain

Camshaft produced by Crane Cams

Crane hydraulic lifters, stock pushrods and rocker arms

Cam Timing: Intake: .441 lift 218º duration @ .050”
Exhaust: .441 lift 228º duration @ .050”

Cylinder heads have been replaced with casting # 4323302.
This head features a “closed” combustion chamber with 62.6 cc volume
Valve Diameter: 1.78 inch (intake)
1.50 inch (exhaust)
Heads have hardened valve seats.
​
Engine Intake:
Manifold: Edelbrock Performer #2176
Carburetor: Carter AFB rated @ 625 cfm. Manual choke.
Air Cleaner: K&N #1110


Tuning:

Spark plug: N13Y Champion or equivalent
Plug gap: .035 inches
Timing: 2½º BTDC
Point gap: N/A electronic distributor
Dwell angle N/A electronic distributor
Idle: 750 rpm hot idle
 
I've got a plan for my 318 that should hopefully be done by September...

-- Blueprinted original 1970 block, .030" over
-- KB-167 pistons, around 10:1 comp
-- Stock rods, crank
-- RHS LA-X heads, light prep by IMM Engines (stock valve sizes, etc.)
-- Lunati Voodoo 256/262 213/220* @ .050", .454/.475" lift w/ 1.5:1 rockers
-- PRW stainless steel adjustable 1.6:1 shaft-mount rockers
-- Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
-- Doug's Headers for SB Mopar A-body
-- Carter AFB 625 cfm
-- 340 windage tray, baffled stock oil pan, HV oil pump

This will be hooked up to a low-gearset A-904 with 2500-2800 stall converter and reverse manual VB, and an 8 1/4" SG rear with 2.94:1 gears. Car will be set up for street and road racing (stiff t-bars, sway bars, Bilstein shocks, etc.).
 
ateam said:
Not having the "A" pool of knwledege, to draw upon,(this forum), I purchased a pre magnum, roller cam 318, complete engine. This to power my 67' cuda coupe. Plans have change since then and this build is to propell a 2,400 lb., Jensen Healy roadster. I have magnum "eddy's" and performer rpm, dual plane, of which I believe will tend to limit power over 6k rpm. ? Steel crank and .02" "hyper" pistons, shot peened magnum rods with ARP. bolts. I'm thinkin this should hold more rpm. ? Edelbrock says this is "only" manifold for Magnum heads. Thoughts ? Thanks, ateam.:cheers:
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> I'm gutting-out the hyd. internals and installing a sleeve. AKA cheap mech roller lifters. I like the "deep skirt" design to pick-up side loads.I "may" make off-set push rod cups, for more serious builds. Anyone done this ? ateam.:read2:
 
dartfever said:
My 318 build for my 97 dak ended up with 247 rwhp, 265 rwtq and a useless first gear!:)
That works out to around 340~ hp at the crank.


Mag heads ported
1.7 roller rockers
R/T cam 204/208 @.050" 114 centreline
M1 intake for magnum FI
ported TB
edelbrock shorty headers
flowmaster catback
Compression is around 9.1

I use the hypertech power programmer which I believe is limiting the engine a bit on the top end, but a fun drive nonetheless.
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see i always had the idea if i were to go for a 318 build i would go for a magnum with fuel injection like your 97, to me thats not alot of work really for 340 hp at the crank, thats amazing and i think the fuel injection helps.. i never see a fuel injected 318 in any a body, there always torn down for a carb..
 
The "best" 318 build I've seen was my friends '70 Dart.

Bone Stock 1970 318 with a "very custom" exhaust . . . .

Twin Garret TO4 turbochargers and a cummins diesel intercooler - 12psi

He ran mid 11's all day with MT street slicks and 273 gears in the 8 1/4 and it was a RIOT on the street.
 
1974DartSwinger said:
The "best" 318 build I've seen was my friends '70 Dart.

Bone Stock 1970 318 with a "very custom" exhaust . . . .

Twin Garret TO4 turbochargers and a cummins diesel intercooler - 12psi

He ran mid 11's all day with MT street slicks and 273 gears in the 8 1/4 and it was a RIOT on the street.
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Very custom indeed..
 
Dang, how many miles did he get out of that setup? Stock + turbo + highway 8.25 sounds like a bit of a ticking time bomb, lol. Though I'm thinking about an 8-71 on a stock bottom end =P.
 
here's a stout little 273 build...

3.650 x 3.31
cast flat top with valve reliefs -4 cc
zero deck
Cometic .028 head gasket
ported 920 273 heads 240 cfm with 1.88's and 1.60's with 55 cc chambers
custom solid lifter cam
Edelbrock LD4B intake
Holley 8156 750 cfm carb
hooker headers
it'll make 1.25 hp per ci in and idle like your Dad's station wagon...
 
First of all, I want to thank all of you for all the great builds I've seen. I love that there's FINALLY a safe haven for people who want to start with a 273 or 318 block without being talked down too!!!!!!!!!!
Second, to the 8-71 idea,... a common build is to put good flowing 360 heads on a 318. This results in OK power, but a REALLY low compression motor. That got me thinking. (since I've got a couple 8-71 blowers in the barn) What about a stout 318 short block (forged crank and pistons) and a decent flowing but compression robbing set of 360 heads, with one of these 8-71's sitting on top? Am I missing something, or would this be a formula to ridiculous power for ridiculously cheap?
Just a thought!!!!
 
To the 8-71 blower, ROCK ON! I would certainly beef up the bottom end though. Four bolt splayed caps with ARP studs and forged everything.
 
I have a 67-74 block, a forged crank, and a couple blowers, sounds to me like a forged piston set, some wrecking yard heads, and it's party time!! !
 
Once you put on the blower, cylinder head cc is no longer an issue. Air is being forced in so theres no more issue with low compresion!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
This might be a stupid question, but here it goes, been following this thread and something just doesn't seem rite to me and that is this. I have a 318 my brother-inlaw had in an Ply-Arrow he built back in the 80's back then he bought a set of 340 heads with a tri-angle valve job done on them and found that it didn't help at all actually hurt the engine, and have been told this ever since I got the motor, no it not in my car yet I can only wish for that rite now. So how can you guy's be talking about putting 360 heads on a 318 when 340 heads aren't a good idea, is it because you guy's have the head cut down? per say. I don't understand and my head hurts and feels like it's going to explode LOL.
Brad
 
In my daily driven 98 dakota I made 240rwhp .... before I put the blower on:snakeman:

318 magnum stock bottom end with 80k hard miles.
Stock efi
~9:1 CR
34* total timing
Unported Eddie heads
M1 2bbl intake
50mm TB
Mopar Shortie headers, cats, and muffler
212/214 @.050 .510/.510 lift 114 lsa
dyno21.jpg
 
bkd said:
This might be a stupid question, but here it goes, been following this thread and something just doesn't seem rite to me and that is this. I have a 318 my brother-inlaw had in an Ply-Arrow he built back in the 80's back then he bought a set of 340 heads with a tri-angle valve job done on them and found that it didn't help at all actually hurt the engine, and have been told this ever since I got the motor, no it not in my car yet I can only wish for that rite now. So how can you guy's be talking about putting 360 heads on a 318 when 340 heads aren't a good idea, is it because you guy's have the head cut down? per say. I don't understand and my head hurts and feels like it's going to explode LOL.
Brad
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Air flow is what makes big power. Compression adds, but on a smaller scale. The combination of everything together makes it all work best. That is why a lot of these guys want more information, to give a good recommendation. If you put stock 360 or 340 heads on a 318 with stock 318 heads, it will make more power, assuming good cam, valve springs, intake and carb. The extra flow will more than make up for the lack of compression. If you port heads, 318, 340 or 360 then you are getting more flow. If you go to Magnum heads you add a little compression and more flow. Porting 318 heads can get more flow than stock 340 heads. Not all machine work is the same either. If you sink the valves they lose power. If you narrow the seats they don't last as long. I look at how much money I have and other factors, (complication, dependability, cross country driving, octane available, and anything else you want to add in) and start making decisions. This is of course, a very simplified explanation. What can you get and for how much does it cost? What is the gain? Its your time and money.
 
racerdan80 said:
To the 8-71 blower, ROCK ON! I would certainly beef up the bottom end though. Four bolt splayed caps with ARP studs and forged everything.
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Yeah, I was planning on tracking down a forged crank sometime down the road. Trying to get the rest of the car up to snuff first. Thought about going all out with a stroker kit at the same time since I'd essentially be replacing the whole rotating assembly, but we'll see =P. Was going to try to do a top end kit this winter and maybe blower next summer if I've got enough money saved. It's gonna happen eventually though, always wanted a hole in my hood, lol.
 
1 Pt. of compresion is worth about 3% on a mild build. However, other things fall off with the power. Like how effiecenty drops off. You'll use more gas with less return.

Also, with the larger heads, build dependent here, the larger port will slow down the air and fuel dropping the fuel out of suspension if it can get it into a fine mist at all to begin with.

A finer mist will burn quicker and more completely than big droplets. Again, this is build dependent. Bigger ports for higher RPM. If your going to ignore the RPM below , lets say 3,000, then a 360 head could make for a fine drag head in a lightened Duster/Dart etc......

In doing a performance build via a rebuiuld of the engine, the use of a good slug over OE slugs will show alot more gain than just adding up 3% by the possible point gain. Lets just say going from the actual less than 8-1 to 10-1+ ratio. You'll have a great quenched area over the cavranous concert hall chamber that will help alot with the increased cam size.

Working the package in full nets huge bennifits over band aid approachs or AKA the poor man's way of increaseing performance.

Do what ya can! So long as it is fun!
 
Dartboy52 said:
The build I am planing is:

KB flat tops(forged)
273 Forged crank
Unsure about rods, may reuse if it is cost effective.
XE284 cam, I know it is big.... I'll see how it runs then might step down if it is too much.
302 Heads for starters, I want to at least bump them up to 160 Ex valves. They will have a simple bowl blend as well as some port matching.
As for the intake, I will probably run a smaller port for now with the 302 heads(I have some decent ones), then most likely RPM air gap later down the road when I want more power and have better heads.
I want to run these rocker arms:
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...a2VyIEFybXMgJiBBY2Nlc3Nvcmllcw==&partid=22765
I really want to run 1.6 ratio but I am going to have to do for research first because that will be a ton of valve lift especially with an xe284 cam(544 to be exact)
Carb, maybe 670 street avenger, anybody think there would be much loss running the 770?

Transmission is a mild 904, going to get a 3000 stall. I have the lower first gear in it as well.

Rear is 8.75 with 3.55s

Looking for quick mid 13s... lol what do you guys think?
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The build I have is 318 .040 over kb-167 zero deck mildly ported 302's stealth wieand intake holley 670SA msd dist. headers and a 292 .508 purple shaft at about 37* total timing. It runs pretty darn good for what it is ( not a daily driver ) im having the 2.94 replaced next week with a 4.10 so I cannot wait for that day to come:toothy10:
 
Mild 273 Build.
273 block 40 over TRW race pistons.
std 273 forged crank 3.31"
Mild Port 340 X heads 2.02x1.60 valve notch in block.
MP 292 x .508" Hydraulic cam pkg.
750 Holley on Strip Dominator single plane.
Headers.
904 trans w 4000 converter.
5.14 gear 8 3/4.
Centerlines and slicks.
All in a std 67 Dart GT, using the original 273 engine.

Performance????
10.80's @ 114mph!!!!!!!!!!! NO nos, blower, turbo, methanol or anything, just Mopower.

Ha ha, all the older members will recognise this build from the "Dart Attack" article about this 10 second Dart GT , back from the early 90s in MA. (Magazine)
"I owe you a 10 second car" ...see that ol 67 Dart over there.....:)

Yes this is a real build, I hope the car is still out there somewhere. Was owned by a Mopar family that had Dusters, Hemi Challengers etc etc.
 
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