That Carter you have will bolt right on it. I actually prefer the 318 carburetor for one that's any above stock. It's a little richer and will provide some more fuel over the super six carburetor.
best 2bbl carb for /6 225 super six manifold.
- Thread starter Cruisingram
- Start date
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Rusty,
What's your take on sealing up (or not) the little bleed holes in the butterflies when used on a slant 6? According to the article at the slant 6 site, that is strictly a "318 thing" and those need to be sealed shut or the butterflies replaced with ones that don't have that little hole in them when used in a /6.
I cheated on my son's, and put a small smear of JB over the butterflies on that carb. If I wind up closing them up on the BBD that is going on mine I'll probably go with a quick zap with the MIG.
What's your take on sealing up (or not) the little bleed holes in the butterflies when used on a slant 6? According to the article at the slant 6 site, that is strictly a "318 thing" and those need to be sealed shut or the butterflies replaced with ones that don't have that little hole in them when used in a /6.
I cheated on my son's, and put a small smear of JB over the butterflies on that carb. If I wind up closing them up on the BBD that is going on mine I'll probably go with a quick zap with the MIG.
I'm not sure. I think it's something I would try first and if I had tuning trouble, then maybe block them off.
Keep in mind though, JB Weld isn't impervious to gasoline. It will eventually come loose.If you're gonna block the holes off, I like the mig weld idea a lot better.
I suspect you will have to block those holes to get the T slot position correct.
318 has more cubes, so needs more idle air, hence holes in blades.
I would not trust epoxy to block the holes. A tiny nut & bolt, Loctited and/or staked works well. You can also soft solder, resin cored solder. Although the solder has a low melting point, it is still much higher than the engine temp, so no problem. I have used both methods many times, no problems. I would NOT weld the blades, too much chance of distorting the thin metal from welding heat, upsetting the critical T slot position.
318 has more cubes, so needs more idle air, hence holes in blades.
I would not trust epoxy to block the holes. A tiny nut & bolt, Loctited and/or staked works well. You can also soft solder, resin cored solder. Although the solder has a low melting point, it is still much higher than the engine temp, so no problem. I have used both methods many times, no problems. I would NOT weld the blades, too much chance of distorting the thin metal from welding heat, upsetting the critical T slot position.
I can see that, but someone GOOD with a mig or especially a tig would have no issue.
slantsixdan
=..=
…if you want to have to figure out an air cleaner arrangement that both fits and actually keeps grit out of your engine…and figure out a throttle linkage…and a choke linkage…and a kickdown linkage all from scratch…and spend your life tweaking and tuning and fiddlefutzing with jets and tubes and stuff, trying to make it run all the way right, then yeah, a Weber is definitely your best pick.
Otherwise, there are better options. Drop-ons include various Carter BBDs (real ones, not the Chinese "100% New-new-new-OMG-new!" knockoffs all over the web), Holley 2280s, and Bendix Stromberg WWs.
The Motorcraft 2100/2150 needs an adapter plate, but is well worthwhile; read this and this (and follow the links in those links).
Cruisingram
Well-Known Member
Well, I almost bought a V8 2 Bbbl, but kinda glad I got the stock carter, bought a rebuild kit, all under a 100 to my door for everything. I like this carb as my baseline at this point on this car. I have adapted carbs to other motors, and if I get the rest of the motor more optimized for a bit more power, I may swap carbs then. 38 webers come up for sale locally on a reasonably regular basis due to the import scene, so I will keep my eye out, and then to the lockhart linkage thing in that case as well.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
350 holley
The flange is the limiter here.
The holes are smaller than the 350 holley venturi/bores.
The flange is the limiter here.
The holes are smaller than the 350 holley venturi/bores.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
The carter, stock cam, will work good.
To fatten primary/cruise you can sand down the rods some, drill jets for wot and adjust the pop up arm & spring some to bring on/open full jet sooner.
When I ran one...I didnt know what I was doing... I was 17. Now looking back.. I could have been a lot more successful and saved some money if I knew now what I didnt then. Its easy.
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Oogliboogli
That will do it.
The later say 72 or 74 model with the internal bowl vent/box top are my favs..because that plastic bowl vent tends to break off and leak in general with the pump rod sticking out uncovered
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