Best 340 stroker kit?

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SSG_Karg

SSG_Karg

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I'm in the market for a stroker kit for my 340. Who makes a good all inclusive kit that is ready to drop in? I have a good set of worked W2s for it and it's going into a 72 Duster that will see mostly street duty and showing off at cruise-ins with the occasional pass on the 1/4. Hughes, Mancini, Muscle Motors,.....? Who's the best?
 
muscle motor..hughes ...mancini makes no parts for a stroker ...they rebox parts...

Scat makes a kit with Scat cranks...scat rods..and KB pistons...

Scat kit can be bought from many distributors....mancini...hughes..muscle motors..summit..and so on..

You can have a distributor put a kit together for you....and change out cranks pistons rods...rings... bearing...
 
I have to agree with going with Bloomer Performance, I got a Forged 4.00" crank and Compstar Rods from him and I already had the Diamond pistons.
 
Bought my Scat 416 kit w Icon piston off of Mike @ MRL Balanced and ready to drop in. Great to deal with and you can mix and match to your desire.
 
SSG_Karg said:
where is BLoomers located? I've actually not heard of them before?
Click to expand...

Rod Bloomer
Bloomer Performance Engineering LLC
32210 Redfield Street
Niles , MI 49120

He is 100 percent- Small block mopar, thats all he does.
We got 2 stroker rotating assemblys from him

I feel they are more than just a kit

each one built to your specs.
depending on your block deck height, cam spec, head volume spec. etc.


Only complaint I have is traction issues
we ran one of the strokers the last week of the season
and am now tubbin the car for better tires, moving the springs in, the rear end forward

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Not much slightly bigger bore, and smaller mains. Plus you can say its a 340
 
The smaller mains have less friction and is small potato's on the street and 95% of the track. The bigger bore lends itself to a few more cubes. If you build it right, the extra cubes mean almost nothing. It becomes more of a driver issue. I have seen many of the self bloated chest pounding monkeys driving fast cars only to be stomped I to the ground by a car known to be slower.
 
Thanks for the contact info for Bloomers, I'll be giving him a call.
From what I've seen posted around here, it seems to be agreed that the cast cranks are only good for about 500hp. I would like to make between 500-550hp and I've heard that the Scat cast cranks are good for 600hp. Anyone know if this is true? I'd love to stick with the cast piece to save a little money and rev a little quicker.
 
The cast crank can hold up on the street with a little track time.
Scat "I" beam rods shouldn't require much if any block clearance.
Lighter pistons help it rev quick and save on adding Mallory to the crank when its balanced.
Definitely have it internally balanced.
 
Scat I beam rods clear with no grinding... the simple fact the pin height is changed on a stroker piston they are lighter cause their is less piston above the pin....

Again...only a FEW companies make the parts...the rest rebox them....but can provide a service of tailoring a kit to meet your requirements...

Scat forged crank with scat I beam rods...and KB icon pistons...still took two slugs of mallory metal to internally balance...
 
Will the Scat I beam rods handle 550hp? or will it need H beams and a little bore notching?
I'm leaning toward a Scat cast crank and Scat I beams if it will handle my hp goal.
Thanks for all the contact info for the various shops, guess I have some phone calls to make.
 
I bought a forged Scat crank, rods and pistons from Summit Racing. No complaints from me.

Don't want to hijack the thread but how much exactly is a "slug" of mallory metal? My machinist/builder has said several times how expensive it is to go internally balanced because of the added expense of the heavy metal used. Here is Summit's page showing 44 different "slugs" of mallory metal. Smaller ones are cheap, bigger ones, not so cheap.
 
It all depends on the crank and rod/piston combo you'r etrying to balance. Personally - I internally balance everything I build and I think the most I've never paid was $150 for Mallory and that was using a cast 440 crank and heavy pistons. IMO - that is money well spent and peanuts when the budget's for the whole engine.
 
KB Icon forged pistons with pins weigh 635 grams.
Mahle forged pistons with pins weigh 585 grams.
These were both sbm stroker dished pistons.

I have the Mahle pistons with the Scat I beam rods and they took just over 300 grams off my crank to internal balance it.
 
moper said:
IMO - that is money well spent and peanuts when the budget's for the whole engine.
Click to expand...

That's the way I feel about it, but my builder thinks it's over kill for a street car. I had to insist that it be done.

Mo-Par said:
I have the Mahle pistons with the Scat I beam rods and they took just over 300 grams off my crank to internal balance it.
Click to expand...

So they balanced your assembly without adding ANY weight? That would be sweet.

Like I said I have a forged Scat crank, and H beam rods (only because Scat made a mistake and threw them into the kit!) and forged Icon pistons. I'm hoping that I can get it balanced for around $400. My builder quoted me $250 plus mallory metal.
 
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