best aftermarket steering wheel-67 cuda

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nucuda

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Am putting in new front seats from Procar and am looking for comments as to the best looking , easy to install aftermarket steering wheel . I have ps and wondered if people have recommendations re size . Don't want to impede view of instruments . Was looking at the grants from 13.5-15 inches leaning towards the soft grip 13.5. Any advise appreciated as to what looks best and brand - do not want wood. car is a 67 barracuda fb. Tks
 
Only you can decide what looks best to you. I would tell you to use the stock wheel because that is what i think looks best.
 
Am putting in new front seats from Procar and am looking for comments as to the best looking , easy to install aftermarket steering wheel . I have ps and wondered if people have recommendations re size . Don't want to impede view of instruments . Was looking at the grants from 13.5-15 inches leaning towards the soft grip 13.5. Any advise appreciated as to what looks best and brand - do not want wood. car is a 67 barracuda fb. Tks

I really suggust using the 15"

I have a Lacarra Mark 4 GT 14" O.D. and it sort of gets in the way of the gauges. Just enough to be irritating.

I like the Grant too. They both don't have the dish of a factory wheel, so the wheel moves forward. The adapter is about 2 1/2" from the column. But the rim is still forward of a factory rim. You might want to make/add a spacer. If you don't want/need the spacers you should bend your turn signal lever forward. I used to always bump mine. Personally I'd like to add something like a 1" spacer.

Tuff wheel repro would be another option. I think they are a little bigger diameter to see guages.
 

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I put a small oddball aftermarket wheel in mine.I bought it for the look alone. Afterwards I found it's horn switch was a cheap POS. Remaking that thing took several hours. Then finding a spacer adapter to mount it was a chore. I also changed the length and bend angle of the signal wand. Those Grant wheels and others from Year One, etc... would be a lot easier to install I'm sure.
 
That's a personal choice only you can make. Best bet is a wheel that's comfortable and provides good grip - you'll find out about a 'bad grip' at the worst possible time.
I've had wood-rimmed steering wheels in several cars and liked them at the time. I've also had leather-rimmed wheels and liked them.
Personally, I prefer a steering wheel with 'finger grips' like a stock wheel rather than a smooth rim front and back if you're going with a hard-surface wheel.
Check out http://www.wheelskins.com/ for an easy way to add a quality leather wrap to any steering wheel. I added one to the stock steering wheel in my '95 Ram 2500 pickup and couldn't be happier with it.
 
I really suggust using the 15"

I have a Lacarra Mark 4 GT 14" O.D. and it sort of gets in the way of the gauges. Just enough to be irritating.

I like the Grant too. They both don't have the dish of a factory wheel, so the wheel moves forward. The adapter is about 2 1/2" from the column. But the rim is still forward of a factory rim. You might want to make/add a spacer. If you don't want/need the spacers you should bend your turn signal lever forward. I used to always bump mine. Personally I'd like to add something like a 1" spacer.

Tuff wheel repro would be another option. I think they are a little bigger diameter to see guages.
damn ur haulin the mail! 90 miles an hour @ 4 grand! whoa there steve!...whoa!!
 
Dont simply grab a signal wand and ttempt to bend it. It can break the signal switch.
It is made of a hardened steel and will require heat to bend in a vice without breaking.
The heat will discolor the chrome a bit also. Keep the heat in from a small tip tight to the corner.
To make mine shorter I changed the length at the knob end and shortened the knob some also.
 
Dont simply grab a signal wand and ttempt to bend it. It can break the signal switch.
It is made of a hardened steel and will require heat to bend in a vice without breaking.
The heat will discolor the chrome a bit also. Keep the heat in from a small tip tight to the corner.
To make mine shorter I changed the length at the knob end and shortened the knob some also.

Good points and recommendations.

I took mine off and did it in a vice too. I did it cold but only moved the end about 3/4". BUT, I had a spare lever if it broke. That's a big factor in taking risky chances like that.
 
90+ on what looks like the 215. Gotta love it. Then again maybe the speedo drive on the tranny isn't geared right.

I really suggust using the 15"

I have a Lacarra Mark 4 GT 14" O.D. and it sort of gets in the way of the gauges. Just enough to be irritating.

I like the Grant too. They both don't have the dish of a factory wheel, so the wheel moves forward. The adapter is about 2 1/2" from the column. But the rim is still forward of a factory rim. You might want to make/add a spacer. If you don't want/need the spacers you should bend your turn signal lever forward. I used to always bump mine. Personally I'd like to add something like a 1" spacer.

Tuff wheel repro would be another option. I think they are a little bigger diameter to see guages.
 
I had a smaller 13.5" on my 67 barracuda and did not like it it blocked the gauges and with no power steering not fun.
I have the stock wheel back on now and and it is staying put.
 
Thanks to all who posted . Am going to wait for seat install in Jan. and take another look to see if stock has enough clearance for my legs-those 16in stock wheels are big. Looked at dash picture thread and got some idea of stock compared to aftermarket.Some members have dashes I only dream of.
 
Thanks to all who posted . Am going to wait for seat install in Jan. and take another look to see if stock has enough clearance for my legs-those 16in stock wheels are big. Looked at dash picture thread and got some idea of stock compared to aftermarket.Some members have dashes I only dream of.

Should have clearance with 16" stock wheel.

I have Scat ProCar seats in my 68 Dart with stock black steering wheel. And my ProCar seats are pretty high. Like way high.

I just used the stock 68 bucket seat tracks and moved/drilled one hole in each track. Those put the seat really too high. I'm 5'8". The fact that it's in a convertible gives me a little extra room. If it was a hardtop I think a person 6' would get real close to the headliner. I just used the stock tracks because I was on a uber budget. I scored the seat for $150/pair
 
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