If you are rebuilding one, your budget is the limit. You will need all the components for it to work properly though. That's why my suggestion above is a good stopping point with a stock teen using bolt on parts.
Last edited:
Best bolt ons for a small block
- Thread starter Dan the man
- Start date
-
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
I did say that, but I don't need a tunnel ram to get it.
I will share what I did with a spare 318 I had when I blew up my motor last year.
Stock 78 318 long block
Summit K6901 cam
Stock valve springs but I should have changed them out.
Edelbrock Performer intake (LD4B if you can get one)
4150 Holley carb. I used a 750 but a 650 dp would be ok.
Stock 318 distributor with an FBO plate.
I stuck it in my Duster that already had Headers, dual 2.5" exhaust, H pipe, A-500 trans, 4.10 geared rear.
For what it is, I really am happy with it. It's a great way to make a stock 318 2bbl motor more fun!
Cley
Stock 78 318 long block
Summit K6901 cam
Stock valve springs but I should have changed them out.
Edelbrock Performer intake (LD4B if you can get one)
4150 Holley carb. I used a 750 but a 650 dp would be ok.
Stock 318 distributor with an FBO plate.
I stuck it in my Duster that already had Headers, dual 2.5" exhaust, H pipe, A-500 trans, 4.10 geared rear.
For what it is, I really am happy with it. It's a great way to make a stock 318 2bbl motor more fun!
Cley
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
This is something like I'm wanting to do with my engine. You don't have to spend a fortune in order to have a fun car. I've seen a few 318's back in the day that ran strong and didn't have a fortune spent on them.
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
So junk it and replace it with a 408
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
Going with a 408 would really increase what I'm wanting to spend. I don't want to sound disrespectful, but junking a perfectly re buildable 318 makes absolutely no sense to me at all. This is how guy's wind up spending a lot more money than they had planned
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
I totally hear you, the 408 comment was a tongue in cheek reply
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
All bolt on's, stock 1970 318 Dart
Ede Performer intake
Ede 600cfm
340 Hi-Po manifolds,
Dual exhaust, 40 series Flowmaster, H-pipe
Mopar Performance electronic ign.
2.73 peg leg
Little Sum ***** would burn rubber all the way down the street.
Ede Performer intake
Ede 600cfm
340 Hi-Po manifolds,
Dual exhaust, 40 series Flowmaster, H-pipe
Mopar Performance electronic ign.
2.73 peg leg
Little Sum ***** would burn rubber all the way down the street.
That's the best lookin GM HEI install ever. Most all the rest look like chit.
Showoff. Dammit that's purdy. lolAll bolt on's, stock 1970 318 Dart
Ede Performer intake
Ede 600cfm
340 Hi-Po manifolds,
Dual exhaust, 40 series Flowmaster, H-pipe
Mopar Performance electronic ign.
2.73 peg leg
Little Sum ***** would burn rubber all the way down the street.
View attachment 1715829043
Nice job Cley. I did a similar job like that, (no cam change) on a 360. It scooted along pretty good. Just the simple stuff works for a driver. I did it a second time with a 318 with a cam change, headers and a gear swap to 3.21’s. It was a fun car.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
Do you remember what cam you used in the 318?
YES! I DO! It is one that I would not suggest or recommend, unless your going to build this engine with at least a 10.5-1 ratio and use 3.90 gears.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
How about a melling SPD-22 cam? It's a 68 340 automatic trans cam
Don't overcam your 318 unless you are planning a bunch of parts to make it work. Duration @050 around 220°
Like Rusty would say "that's a good-un "
I don’t like the 114 LSA. It’s a torque looser.
But it’ll idle smooth and drive away like it’s silk.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
What's that comment suppose to mean?
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
Would a cam with a 109* LSA be a better choice for a torque cam?
Post #93/4. It means 114 LSA is a loser.
Yes, 109 LSA is better.
Reduce duration if you want a smoother idle/more vacuum.
In D. Vizard's SB chev book, he lists cam for various performance levels. Yours might be Quick Street. Guess what? From 302 up to 434 ci, each cam has the same 224 @ 050 duration. How can that be? The LSA is different & therefore the overlap; 110 LSA for the 302, 104 for the 434.
Yes, 109 LSA is better.
Reduce duration if you want a smoother idle/more vacuum.
In D. Vizard's SB chev book, he lists cam for various performance levels. Yours might be Quick Street. Guess what? From 302 up to 434 ci, each cam has the same 224 @ 050 duration. How can that be? The LSA is different & therefore the overlap; 110 LSA for the 302, 104 for the 434.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
What cam do you recommend for what I'm wanting to do?
When someone posts “This ^^^^”, it is in reference to the above post or quoted area they quoted. It is normally in agreement or just calling to attention the post or quoted area to offer a counter point or additional comment.
I s found that the 224 @.050 is about the ideal duration for a really nice street set up as far as a driver with respectable power returns. Of course the rest of the combo is responsible for what the final outcome is or could be. An engine with stock heads & intake will be low powered while a ported iron head and upgraded intake releases more power and a well ported head and intake offer the maximum return on power while all of the example roughly have the same power band. There is just more offered in the higher rpm band with better flowing intake and exhaust components.
Of course not all 224@050 cams are created equal. There precise timing events are different and will perform different.
@AJ/FormS
This is what AJ often writes about. The timing events and the meaning or better yet the inner workings of how the cam timing events better trap the air and fuel for more power.
The better your cylinder head flows, (more cfm and at what lifts) the more lift you can use to get the A&F in the cylinder and out of the cylinder.
-
