Best break-in oil???

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65Val

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Probably been asked before ( I searched, but no go), but what’s the best break-in oil for a flat-tappet engine (360, if it matters)?
 
I broke my 340 in with the Joe Gibbs 30W. It seemed to survive
 
I just used some break in oil from Blueprint. Did a real nice job. @Johnny Mac sent the oil and filter. Break in went fine. It's a 283 Chevy.
 
I use VR1 from birth to death, but haven't had one get sick or die
 
Probably been asked before ( I searched, but no go), but what’s the best break-in oil for a flat-tappet engine (360, if it matters)?
What ever your engine builder recommends and will stand behind in today's **** lifter and cam environment...
 
Should break-in oil be used if its just a cam change, or is assembly lube sufficient? Not trying to hijack the thread, just thought it was a pertinent question to the topic.
 
Should break-in oil be used if its just a cam change, or is assembly lube sufficient? Not trying to hijack the thread, just thought it was a pertinent question to the topic.
I would use break in oil for its higher zinc content.
 
The cam lifters and valve train is what needs the break in oil
True Kim. I did some research on Driven HR2 oil, which is what I personally use, it has a zinc content of approx 1200 ppm, but their BR30 break in oil has a zinc ppm of 2800-3000, so the OP would benefit significantly from using a good break in oil as opposed to just an oil with a zinc additive to do his break in. And for my next cam change, Im going to run the BR30 to break it in as well.
So I guess my recommendation is Driven BR30 break in oil and follow their directions. :)
 
True Kim. I did some research on Driven HR2 oil, which is what I personally use, it has a zinc content of approx 1200 ppm, but their BR30 break in oil has a zinc ppm of 2800-3000, so the OP would benefit significantly from using a good break in oil as opposed to just an oil with a zinc additive to do his break in. And for my next cam change, Im going to run the BR30 to break it in as well.
So I guess my recommendation is Driven BR30 break in oil and follow their directions. :)
I thought there was a thread on here that over 1400 or so ppm is a waste and that ur over using it cause u can get too much. Or am I mistaken or not wording this right.
 
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I thought there was a thread on her tat over 1400 or so ppm is a waste and that ur over using it cause u can get too much. Or am I mistaken or not wording this right.
Kim, that's true in most cases, with break-in being an exception. Another is Top Fuel and Funny Car engines.
 
So straight 30W is OK for break-in? I would think a multi-vis, as in 10W-30 would be better at initial start-up to get into the tight clearances of a new engine?
 
The situation is more critical with stiffer valve springs.
Do NOT use this:

37 R.JPG


38 R.JPG


40 R.JPG


The API rating of SN/SM/SL means that it is HIGH detergent. Despite the claim of having extra zinc, the detergent in the oil won't allow the zinc to stick to anything. High detergent oils might as well have NO zinc if it can't stay in place and protect things.
I've used this stuff:

IMG_6719.JPG


There is nothing wrong with it but it is pricey. This is cheaper:

IMG_6717.JPG
 
Theoretically any decent oil with adequate ZDDP (1200 ppm+) should be sufficient. I bought the Joe Gibbs stuff just because.
 
I gotta say, I do love the stuff. Being blue in color is pretty cool too, as if there is a leak somewhere, it's not just another "dark spot on the floor"

Makes it very easy to see anything "foreign" in it, too.
I like the idea of my old eyes being able to actually see the fresh oil on the dipstick, too!
 
ZDDP percentage is a poor way to chose an oil.

You can have 1200 ppm or 1800 ppm and it doesn’t matter.

The oil with the higher percentage of ZDDP will last longer before the ZDDP is used up.

Break in oil is just as important to rings as it is to cams.
 
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