Best budget 360 stroker kit

-
May the best 360 win,you guys are building what sounds like a good street pounder.Good luck boys.And remember lets go raceing boys.
 
I would build a zero deck stroker and use magnum heads.Make sure quench is set correctly with bowl porting and a gasket match and your looking at an easy 450 h.p on a very streetable motor (tons of torque and hi velocity heads) with built in detonation protection due to the quench.Strokers seem to "like" hi velocity heads which quickly fill the cylinders,as the increased stroke picks up piston speed. With the faster moving piston comes a need for speedy air fuel delivery,so I would also recommend a cam with fast ramps. Contact Hughs engines and have a look at thier cams.
 
needsaresto said:
I would build a zero deck stroker and use magnum heads.Make sure quench is set correctly with bowl porting and a gasket match and your looking at an easy 450 h.p on a very streetable motor (tons of torque and hi velocity heads) with built in detonation protection due to the quench.Strokers seem to "like" hi velocity heads which quickly fill the cylinders,as the increased stroke picks up piston speed. With the faster moving piston comes a need for speedy air fuel delivery,so I would also recommend a cam with fast ramps. Contact Hughs engines and have a look at thier cams.
Click to expand...

That is what I did. Went with the Hughes HER2228 hydraulic roller cam, Eddy heads and RPM Air Gap. Good street manners and runs like a big block but is might lighter.
 
Once I decide on the valve train and have the heads cut for bigger valves my plans are to send out the J heads to have them ported. Hopefully by one of the members here that knows his stuff. My plans are to build this for under $4K
 
Badart said:
Once I decide on the valve train and have the heads cut for bigger valves my plans are to send out the J heads to have them ported. Hopefully by one of the members here that knows his stuff. My plans are to build this for under $4K
Click to expand...

Thats very doable with carefull parts selection and shopping.
 
Badart said:
Once I decide on the valve train and have the heads cut for bigger valves my plans are to send out the J heads to have them ported. Hopefully by one of the members here that knows his stuff. My plans are to build this for under $4K
Click to expand...

Honest, even free, those J heads will cost you a ton to have ported and refurbed. I did my own porting and it cost me close to $700 for valve job, surfacing, hardened seats, new valves, springs, etc... A decent port job will run you 600-900 and then you are talking ede head money which are better OOTB than most any ported early factory iron head.

If you don't want to run Aluminum, look into the new heads available, EQ's RHs, etc... You'll be miles ahead with much less invested.
 
crackedback said:
Honest, even free, those J heads will cost you a ton to have ported and refurbed. I did my own porting and it cost me close to $700 for valve job, surfacing, hardened seats, new valves, springs, etc... A decent port job will run you 600-900 and then you are talking ede head money which are better OOTB than most any ported early factory iron head.

If you don't want to run Aluminum, look into the new heads available, EQ's RHs, etc... You'll be miles ahead with much less invested.
Click to expand...

Ugh! Don't tell me that. Thanks crackedback I will look into it.
 
Badart said:
Ugh! Don't tell me that. Thanks crackedback I will look into it.
Click to expand...

He is correct. I was trying to explain this to a potential buyer of the magnums. He balked at shipping because he could get heads from the wreckers pretty cheap. But like crackedback said,there is tons of work to be done after finding manums that arent cracked.
 
All engines like high velocity ports or ones that fill the cylinder quick, think about it.....It's not just strokers, it's common sense.

And from what I've seen eddy's, eq's , rhs all flow less ootb than my ported J's, and they barley hold a candle when mildly ported, it's in full ported form that they kick J azz, but not by W2 standards...w2's sht all over all of them.

But the question is, how much flow does a guy need?
Is he just needing the biggy #'s to throw around in a brag meanwhile his cam never touches the lift that the heads flow these big numbers'?
Or is he aiming for the realm of where his planned build & cam is gonna make power?

the hp/flow formula, it really works 'IF' you pay attention the the rest as in ragged edge compression, port matched and flowed with heads intake manifold, valve train geometry, timing curve, and the right exhaust amongst a few other things.
 
magnum heads are garbage for anything other than slightly warmed up or stock AND don't flow over 250's cfm and are a liability when it comes to durability/longevity.JMO/experience


It cost me $800 ish for a full performance rebuild on the heads, I did my own porting.

Not everyone wants to do it this way and that is totally cool, cause we are all individuals here.
 
Thanks for returning my Pm 1wild&crazyguy and crackedback

So are the Rhs/indy LA version the best bang for the buck right out of the box? If I could save some scratch by not having to port the J's that would be great. I know that there are many variables that go into making power, but if I can get 450hp out of the box then I will go with them. If that is the case then I will call my engine guy and tell him to hold off on the heads. Keep in mind that I don't plan on spinning this thing to 6,500 rpm or do I want over 500 hp. Just a good streetable motor that makes great torque.
 
Badart said:
Thanks for returning my Pm 1wild&crazyguy and crackedback

So are the Rhs/indy LA version the best bang for the buck right out of the box? If I could save some scratch by not having to port the J's that would be great. I know that there are many variables that go into making power, but if I can get 450hp out of the box then I will go with them. If that is the case then I will call my engine guy and tell him to hold off on the heads. Keep in mind that I don't plan on spinning this thing to 6,500 rpm or do I want over 500 hp. Just a good streetable motor that makes great torque.
Click to expand...

Every 5cfm is 10hp if all is tuned/matched right in the combo.

200cfm=400hp
Which is what a 2.02 j,x, etc flows.

Bowl blended [which most shops will do for $200-$250] will add another 25-30cfm on top of that 200cfm=225-230cfm=460hp if the rest is right.

My home ported J's air flow/cfm wise are worth 564 hp potential in the right combo.
My J headed 410 spins 6500 and then falls off. fwiw



Hope this informs you or gives an idea of how things work/can work.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
magnum heads are garbage for anything other than slightly warmed up or stock AND don't flow over 250's cfm and are a liability when it comes to durability/longevity.JMO/experience


It cost me $800 ish for a full performance rebuild on the heads, I did my own porting.

Not everyone wants to do it this way and that is totally cool, cause we are all individuals here.
Click to expand...

What a load of garbage...

Your making statements based on your opinion and not fact.

Your comparing j and x head peak flow #s to magnum peak flow #s. Apples to oranges doesnt work. Now if you want to talk about flow under the curve instead of at 6500rpm....

All late model cast iron heads from all manufacturer have cracking problems. This is more due to the VERY lean air/fuel mixtures used. This causes raised combustion tempuratures,combined with lightweight and sometimes thin here and there casting tecniques.
 
This will give you an idea what a ported stock head can do:

http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/6408416strokerdynotests.php

I would get the bottom up line honed, ARP main studs, balanced by a good local shop, get the crank and rods looked over and corrected if need be, pistons inspected, and zero deck the block. Then if the budget is tight use those stock iron heads with a good valve job, bowl blending, and gasket matched. The only problem is when those stock heads need new valves, valve springs, new guides, and retainers and locks. Now you are starting to approach the cost of new heads. Or just go with Eddy heads to start with, get the shop to go over the valve job, check out valve guide clearance, and get them touched up a little. My local shop quoted me $250 to prep a pair of Eddy heads like described above. Then later you can pull the heads and have them ported.

I run Stage 2 ported Edelbrocks by Shady Dell Speed, retrofit roller cam, MP bronze drive gear, Comp Cams Pro Magnum roller rockers, Hughes hold down kit, upgraded valve springs, 10 degree retainers and lock, and that all added up to around $4,000 which was significantly more then the short block costs. So unless you have a big budget build a good short block and that will leave you the option to upgrade the top end later.
 
They don't say what stage 5 consisted of but none the less great potential in factory castings/parts.

And go's along with what I said, you can have 400cfm but the wrong parts [intake/comp/timing/exhaust etc...] around it and you end up short.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
yep, factory magnum heads sure are garbage...:profilel:

And so is you're perception of my post.:read2:

Hard to argue with fact.

I'll put my J's on the dyno against your mag'ems any day.8)
Click to expand...

And you'll be cryin until about 5000 rpm.
 
Yeah! I got a set of 351 4bbl heads that will outflow both of you guys, can I play??

ROFLMAO!

I still am hanging on to my J, X, 308 heads because of the shafts, I don't care about numbers when they will all do the same thing, it's just hard to beat a shaft.
Combustion chamber can be fixed with pistons, if you like the clsoed chamber idea vs open chamber.
 
dodgetkboy78 said:
Yeah! I got a set of 351 4bbl heads that will outflow both of you guys, can I play??

ROFLMAO!

I still am hanging on to my J, X, 308 heads because of the shafts, I don't care about numbers when they will all do the same thing, it's just hard to beat a shaft.
Combustion chamber can be fixed with pistons, if you like the clsoed chamber idea vs open chamber.
Click to expand...

Ha.. yeah, I know...

I dare post my opinion and experience and well...the rest is above. ha ha

Hey you can fiddle and make a lot of things ''work'' but we're talking about a 408-410 stroker, and mag heads are a close relative of 318 port volumes

:cheers:Like I said we're all individuals here so just have fun and do you're own thing:cheers:

yep, 351 4v heads flow ridiculous amounts on the intake side
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
Ha.. yeah, I know...

I dare post my opinion and experience and well...the rest is above. ha ha

Hey you can fiddle and make a lot of things ''work'' but we're talking about a 408-410 stroker, and mag heads are a close relative of 318 port volumes

:cheers:Like I said we're all individuals here so just have fun and do you're own thing:cheers:

yep, 351 4v heads flow ridiculous amounts on the intake side
Click to expand...

Yep,just cant get it out. Typical Ford.
 
340sFastback said:
This will give you an idea what a ported stock head can do:

http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/6408416strokerdynotests.php

I would get the bottom up line honed, ARP main studs, balanced by a good local shop, get the crank and rods looked over and corrected if need be, pistons inspected, and zero deck the block. Then if the budget is tight use those stock iron heads with a good valve job, bowl blending, and gasket matched. The only problem is when those stock heads need new valves, valve springs, new guides, and retainers and locks. Now you are starting to approach the cost of new heads. Or just go with Eddy heads to start with, get the shop to go over the valve job, check out valve guide clearance, and get them touched up a little. My local shop quoted me $250 to prep a pair of Eddy heads like described above. Then later you can pull the heads and have them ported.

I run Stage 2 ported Edelbrocks by Shady Dell Speed, retrofit roller cam, MP bronze drive gear, Comp Cams Pro Magnum roller rockers, Hughes hold down kit, upgraded valve springs, 10 degree retainers and lock, and that all added up to around $4,000 which was significantly more then the short block costs. So unless you have a big budget build a good short block and that will leave you the option to upgrade the top end later.
Click to expand...

Great info there thanks.
 
340sFastback said:
This will give you an idea what a ported stock head can do:

http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/6408416strokerdynotests.php

I would get the bottom up line honed, ARP main studs, balanced by a good local shop, get the crank and rods looked over and corrected if need be, pistons inspected, and zero deck the block. Then if the budget is tight use those stock iron heads with a good valve job, bowl blending, and gasket matched. The only problem is when those stock heads need new valves, valve springs, new guides, and retainers and locks. Now you are starting to approach the cost of new heads. Or just go with Eddy heads to start with, get the shop to go over the valve job, check out valve guide clearance, and get them touched up a little. My local shop quoted me $250 to prep a pair of Eddy heads like described above. Then later you can pull the heads and have them ported.

I run Stage 2 ported Edelbrocks by Shady Dell Speed, retrofit roller cam, MP bronze drive gear, Comp Cams Pro Magnum roller rockers, Hughes hold down kit, upgraded valve springs, 10 degree retainers and lock, and that all added up to around $4,000 which was significantly more then the short block costs. So unless you have a big budget build a good short block and that will leave you the option to upgrade the top end later.
Click to expand...

Thats impressive. Gave me an idea for the stock 360 4 bbl I have,lol!

Really dig the "stealth " approach!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top