Best coil, box , resister combo ?

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pilotsf

pilotsf

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You guys fixed the scamp. Thanks. I need to fix the HP Dart now.
68 dart
360
Electronic ignition
Mp distributor
Chrome box
Protonix coil.
Stock 8om resister

In heavy traffic it gets hot and sputters. Then cools and fine. I wanted to upgrade. Been awhile. Maybe even the new revenator!!!
What's a good complete set up. Correct coil and resister for chrome box or revenator.
Let's have it. And thank you !

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If it was me and i have limiting factors,I go DIS,as long as you have the money.if cash is limited,MSD and get rid of all the mopar parts all together,except the distributor,but you can get one of those too,mrmopartech
 
Sounds like vapor lock to me.

Get an Edelbrock insulated gasket and one of their phenolic spacers w/gasket. There are different types, find out what you need.
CHECK HOOD CLEARANCE.

I think you're boiling your gas, because your carb. is too hot.
Nothing to do with ignition!

For performance, you want to raise your carb. anyway.
 
Yeah it's almost like I'm getting hot gas. I do have a 1inch spacer and went to demon carb. The reason I thought it was ignition. - I had a cheap Mallory coil and it did it right away. Stall. Then start then stall. I put old protronix coil from trunk new chrome box got better. But if I'm under 1k rpm for a length of time runs like poop. The I open her up on frees way and all good. I've got 2 ballast resisters in engine bay. The 8om and big race one. Not sure about application. I just want to simplify. I re routed fuel lines too. Also put a secondary electric fan.

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Yeah. I was thinking about changing cool pick up. It's 5 years old. New box(chrome) and msd blaster coil with the provided resister

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Could be a LOT of things

Where is the ECU mounted, could be getting hot?

Could be coil going bad.

Doubtful it's the distributor.

Could be fuel

Could be a wiring problem. Have you checked supply voltages to ignition?

The ol' bulkhead / harness / voltage drop thing just never goes away on these old girls.
 
I've noticed over the years if I put Good coil it's fine. I've been told the chrome boxes don't like the factory resister. I put the bigger one with lest resistance. That helped. But like I said its time to replace the box coil and resister. Not to expensive. The Malloy coil didn't work at all. I know the gold box is not good for driving. I'm just reluctant to use msd set up. I'm nestalgic. Witch unit should I change first. Out of the three. ?

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What do you thing about mounting all units in the car behind glove box. !

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One huge "modern" problem is quality of parts

I gave up on Mopar ECUs I just went to a simple, lo buck HEI module fired by the Mopar distributor and driving a stock coil.

You don't need a ballast, and they will drive a wide variety of coils. Even with a Mopar factory coil, the HEI module produces more fire than a stock Mopar ECU

I don't even use a heat sink. Just mounted it to a flat on the firewall by the dist. which had already been drilled by someone mounting a conversion system
 
I would like to see a sparkplug if you can get around to it.

From the description you said "under 1k runs like crap until you get on the freeway and open it up"

I'd almost bet it's running way to rich, and the plug will show it.
Id even bet that your exhaust pipe/pipes are black and sooty on the inside.
 
MSD 6AL or MSD Street Fire and Blaster 2 coil - no ballast - done. And change the pickup in the distributor for cheap insurance.
 
That's great advice. I'm over having 3 things to depend on with cool box and ballast. Do you have a brand or part number oh the unit you have. Very cool

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Do I just loop the two wires to the Ballast. So it's out if the system. ?

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There are multiple way of bypassing it, and there is removing it completely if you want.

This is a basic method of bypass or you can just connect the wires that go to each end to each other to remove it.

I drew the coils that are inside the resistor so you can see how they work.
The coils draw the power down, so jumpering past them gives you a full 12v to the coil.
 

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Now that is a cool diagram. Very helpful. Can I just make a plug and connect the wires together and chuck the ballast out?
I just need a coil that doesn't require a ballast?

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pilotsf said:
Now that is a cool diagram. Very helpful. Can I just make a plug and connect the wires together and chuck the ballast out?
I just need a coil that doesn't require a ballast?

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Click to expand...

Exactly.

I personally would cut the plug ends off and solder the wires together covered with heatshrink, but I realize some people like to keep things where they can be put back to stock.

So, either way
 
Last time I bought an MSD they included a jumper wire in the package to use across the ballast connections. It's no big deal either to make your own. One thing about an MSD though is you must wire it up correctly, particularly with the heavy positive and negative leads that supply the main power to the box. They usually want them going right to the battery. There's about 7 connections total you need to make. Some replace factory wiring, like the + and - to the coil, others splice into the pickup wires in the distributor, two to supply + and - from the battery, and if you have it the output for a tach.
 
TrailBeast said:
I would like to see a sparkplug if you can get around to it.

From the description you said "under 1k runs like crap until you get on the freeway and open it up"

I'd almost bet it's running way to rich, and the plug will show it.
Id even bet that your exhaust pipe/pipes are black and sooty on the inside.
Click to expand...

xx's 2....

Also,, if you're really going to change out the ignition system, I'd put in one of Trailbeast's HEI kits. cheap, reliable, and parts are avail anywhere..

I'd leave the ignition alone, replace that Eddy with a Holley.. probs solved.. jmo
 
The best cheap, easy fix is a GM HEI module and e-core coil. Indeed, for $45 you can get that in a new distributor (ebay). With big boxes like MSD, you probably won't get much better spark and some might almost be too hot and better for race only. Once they designed high-energy ignition (GM's HEI, Ford's TFI), they were ~97% to perfect ignition. The addition of coil-per-plug "distributor-less" designs might have gained another 2% (mostly for lower emissions), but you can't do that without a crank & cam sensor, plus a computer.
 
If those E-bay Mopar HEI's are China made, and anything like the Ford ones I've seen, they are a time bomb. I know of two I took apart where the bushing seized and somehow the bottom pickup seized onto the shaft and ripped itself off the mounts and tore up the insides of the distributor. Bottom line - they were not repairable at all and both wound up in the trash.
 
airgrabber,

One guy here said he has seen failures of the Mopar HEI ready-to-run distributors. Skip White Performance in TN sells many of them, and is a race shop, so they would have the best info on failures. Whether they would be forthcoming is another story.

Many here use a Mopar electronic distributor to trigger a GM HEI module. That might be more robust, and you can use the better 8-pin HEI module - simple connection to GM coil, ability to computer-control timing.
 
I'm a little biased on it, but after running the GM HEI for a couple of years now, I would NEVER go back to a stock box or spend 300 bucks on something that I might have to wait days to get a replacement part for.
Besides, I already threw away the 20 feet of extra wires in the engine compartment that the stock box uses. :D
 
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