Best epoxy primer

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Toolman

Toolman

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Looking to get some epoxy primer. I'm going yo use crushed glass to blast the car, then wondering if I need to do anything else before I coat it with epoxy primer? Also there are so many new products with the low VOC stuff, what's the best epoxy primer today that will give good protection and is easy to work with? What are you all using?
Thanks guys...always a wealth of knowledge here! :)
 
Hi,

I'm using epoxy from Southern Polyuthethanes (SPI), southernpolyurethanes.com/.

It's some of the best epoxy out there, there is a YouTube video showing a torture test of this epoxy and the stuff is indestructible. It's a little less expensive than PPG, they offer free shipping and the technical support is amazing. Seven day a week technical support, the phone is often answered by the company president. try getting that kind of support from anyone else. SPI products are intended for the restoration market, check out the online reviews of the epoxy, I've never seen a bad review. Use their solvent and water based wax and grease remover and the epoxy isn't coming off.
 
Why epoxy primer...is this for the undercarriage?
Regular 2 part primer is fine for your body panels.
 
give us some more info.

will the car be inside or out after primer? MOST IMPORTANT

do you plan on jumping on the body work and paint or is it going to sit a while?

are you priming it your self and with what type of gun if you are?
 
I think the theory is that body filler is porous and can absorb water. The epoxy layer protects the bare metal if moisture gets below the paint and into the filler.

I used SPI Epoxy primer. I loved it. I've read the Dupont epoxy will plug your sand paper. But you could block sand the SPI if you wanted to - no problem.

They say you can apply filler directly over the epoxy without scuffing anytime within the 7 day re-coat window, but I scuffed mine just to be safe. I also used red oxide epoxy and gray primer surfacer. That way I could tell when I had sanded down to the epoxy and avoid going all the way to bare metal.
 
I have a NEW gallon of Sikkens Color build Plus 2K primer I would sell.This is not a cheap primer.It is a very good primer and easy to work with.I will make you a deal on it.It cost me $250.00 for a gallon.
 
The reason for epoxy primer is the corrosion resistance factor. I also will be doing a lot of rust repair and the initial blast and prime will cover all the good sheet metal and the rest will be in stages as I replace the rusted metal. The car may be in and out of the garage a few times during this phase. Then a quick sand to rough up the epoxy and a coat of high build sand able primer to start the body work.

I will be using a devilibiss flg4 finishline hvlp gun ( if not, I have some of my old school guns; a sharp #75 and a binks #18, both guns spray well).
 
I have heard good things about SPI...so that's probably what I'll end up with.
Also, what are you guys using these days as far as respiratiors go? It's been over 20 years since I did any car painting...I'm sure things have changed. I'm not sure if I'm going to go single stage urethane or base cost clear coat? I'll be shooting the car in my detached garage, I can rig up a temp paint bay with some plastic and a good exhaust fan...so any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all the input...lots of knowledge here!
 
the devilbiss would be a good primer gun.
the epoxy primer is a good idea if you keep it out side at all, just make sure you get a real epoxy primer like http://www.valsparrefinish.com/primers_other_VP50.jsp
the spi epoxy primer looks like it could take forever to apply and dry. it has a pot life of up to 5 days and requires a 30 min set time before spraying so it could be very slow drying. i have not used it though so my opinion is only based on the TDS.

if you dont have a primer picked already i recommend house of kolor kd3000. ive been spraying it with a pos husky hvlp from 2009 or so, and it self levels to no orange peel and is easy to sand.

if you want bc/cc you might want to invest in a better gun. i got a devilbiss plus form tcp global for like 450 with a bag style cup kit. so far ive shot single stage base and clear with it. the single stage and clear didnt need polishing.

for a solid color single stage the finishline should be fine. you might want to try the other guns though to see witch is least orange peely. please dont do a metalic single stage. i did and im taking it all off.

if your compressor can handle a extra slow leak and you dont mind having a tail you could go with a fresh air hood.
 
As far as the gun discussion goes. I have had a Devilbiss FLG3 (they are up to FLG4 now) Finish line gun for several years now. I have done some awesome paint jobs with it. I never had any problems with it no matter what I sprayed. I have recently retired it to primer only since buying the As far as the gun discussion goes. I have a Devilbis Tekna Copper gun. But I HIGHLY recommend the Finish line.
 
Hi Toolman,


I have a Binks #18 too and in its day I did some nice work with it. I love the feel and quality of that gun. I don't know how well the old #18 would do with today's materials, I suspect there would be a lot of wasted material in a huge cloud of overspray. It was really intended to deal with the heavier acrylics of years ago.

On respirators, those old acrylics were not the healthiest stuff to work with but the new Urethanes and their isocyanates are truly nasty stuff. Some people are highly sensitive to them and even a little exposure leads to long term health issues for them. When I handle iso's I suit up like I'm going to the moon. Tyvek paint suit, head sock, gloves, eye mask and respirator. Iso's can be absorbed through the skin and even your eyes.

Charcoal respirators are widely used but I haven't seen them really approved for use with iso's. They do work but I suspect the companies that make them are not willing to accept the product liability issues. With iso's being the nasty stuff they are I think the charcoal has a limited ability to absorb them so the charcoal masks have a limited life. My research indicates about 8 hours max. The charcoal is also absorbing stuff in the air even when it's not on your face so, I keep mine in a sealed zip lock bag when not in actual use. I carefully log all the time on the mask and if I think its been more heavily exposed to iso's I chuck it before the 8 hours. I'm talking about the disposable masks that don't have replaceable cartridges that you buy for around $20. I would encourage you to do your own research and arrive at your own conclusions as to how to handle these materials.

SPI Epoxy- Yes, it's a bit slow. SPI used to suggest the 30 minute induction time after mixing in the activator. They have changed that suggestion to a recommendation. I guess it gives the mixed epoxy more time to chemically activate for a stronger cure. The longer cure time gives this stuff its strength. In insurance shop work time is money and the job has to be completed quickly. Restoration work you want the best materials and job possible so time isn't as much as a factor. SPI products are aimed at restoration work more than speed.
 
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