Best High Zinc Oil

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MRL Performance said:
I did, VR1. I break all my engines on it before we go full synthetic. Its good stuff and is tops in my book. I have used a lot of different oils, special break-in oils and all the hype. Good ol VR1 has never let me, or a lot of the guys I know running it, down.
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what weight do you use? do you fill it up with the VR1 or do you mix it with conventional 30? i am about to break in a 440 and i was told to use one quart of comp cams break in with 4 quarts of regular 30. what do you recommend. im looking to get something of the shelf if possible
 
mshred said:
Thats impossible man...I live in Canada, the land of high prices, and I can get a case of 12 litres of Bradd Penn Grade 1 in a case for fifteen bucks cheaper then if I was to buy the equivalent of regular off the shelf oil on SALE!

Get with an oil supplier nearby you, im sure you can score the stuff without the shipping and for a price just as good as off the shelf oil...plus, if I remember correctly your guys Autozone's should carry Valvoline VR-1 oil, as I remember guys posting coupons for it not too long ago
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vr1 is $ 5.99 a quart at my local autozone, joe gibbs is $8.95 a quart from summit plus shipping ,do the math.
 
73AbodEE said:
what weight do you use? do you fill it up with the VR1 or do you mix it with conventional 30? i am about to break in a 440 and i was told to use one quart of comp cams break in with 4 quarts of regular 30. what do you recommend. im looking to get something of the shelf if possible
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my engine builder broke mine in with joe gibbs break in oil he buys it in bulk no stores around me carry it,my local advanced auto has the lucas break in addative i add it at every oil change that might work for you the comp cam stuff is good to but its mail order. 30wt should be safe. I run 20w50 works for me might be to heavy for break in.
 
Duster Drag Car said:
my engine builder broke mine in with joe gibbs break in oil he buys it in bulk no stores around me carry it,my local advanced auto has the lucas break in addative i add it at every oil change that might work for you the comp cam stuff is good to but its mail order. 30wt should be safe.
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i looked it up on the zones website but they arent showing it here. i just need to go down there. i could order it but i wanted to just get it all in one stop. i will look for the lucas as well, i hear that is great stuff. i know they have the VR1.
 
73AbodEE said:
i looked it up on the zones website but they arent showing it here. i just need to go down there. i could order it but i wanted to just get it all in one stop. i will look for the lucas as well, i hear that is great stuff. i know they have the VR1.
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my autozone carries vr1 but doesnt carry the lucas but advanced auto does have the lucas you can get vr1 at advanced to if you have one near you.
 
Duster Drag Car said:
vr1 is $ 5.99 a quart at my local autozone, joe gibbs is $8.95 a quart from summit plus shipping ,do the math.
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I don't think you are getting what I meant...If you live in the states, where everything is actually made and is cheaper then me in Canada, there has got to be an oil supplier nearby you who can get the stuff for you at a good price...thats all I was saying.

And in my opinion, good oils are not just regular oils with the break in packages added to them...you are paying for an oil that is meant to be used in this application, and therefore has the right blends of everything in them

thats just my .02 cents...If I knew of an oil supplier near you that carried this stuff, I would tell ya, but I only know who is local to me obviously
 
Go to amazon.com and the VR-1 is 5.00 a qt when you buy a case. The shipping is free also.

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Roger,
There are two VR1s - VR1 with the highest zink is the "Not For Street Use" stuff. It comes in a six-pac case and Car Quest (Ted) can get it for you from their warehouse. If the stuff on the shelf at Auto Zone or Advanced has the SAE "sunburst" logo, of a rating of SM or newer (is there an SN yet?) then it's NOT what you need. The Not For Street Use stuff will damage catalytic convertors - which is why it's called that. It's not legal if you have cats but you're car it's fine. I have my customers with radical flat tappets them run that because it's easy to get without paying shipping. Last time I bought it I got it for $6/qt but that was a while ago. I paid $5.60/qt for Castrol yesterday so it's probably gone up since then.
 
73AbodEE said:
what weight do you use? do you fill it up with the VR1 or do you mix it with conventional 30? i am about to break in a 440 and i was told to use one quart of comp cams break in with 4 quarts of regular 30. what do you recommend. im looking to get something of the shelf if possible
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I break them in on 20w50. The thicker oil is able to suspend the fine metal particles better so the filter can get them out of the oil. I have been using it for years and the guy I work with on the dyno uses it on everything, even 2000hp Turbo BBC abd such. After break in we normally run 10w30.
 
moper said:
Roger,
There are two VR1s - VR1 with the highest zink is the "Not For Street Use" stuff. It comes in a six-pac case and Car Quest (Ted) can get it for you from their warehouse. If the stuff on the shelf at Auto Zone or Advanced has the SAE "sunburst" logo, of a rating of SM or newer (is there an SN yet?) then it's NOT what you need. The Not For Street Use stuff will damage catalytic convertors - which is why it's called that. It's not legal if you have cats but you're car it's fine. I have my customers with radical flat tappets them run that because it's easy to get without paying shipping. Last time I bought it I got it for $6/qt but that was a while ago. I paid $5.60/qt for Castrol yesterday so it's probably gone up since then.
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hey Dave i read the "Not For Street Use" breaks down faster because it has no detergents which is fine for the race car becacuse i change it a lot and it only gets used 1/4 mile at at a time ,but the brand x car is also a flat tappet cam i usualy change it the end of march and run it to fall not even 3000 miles of use a season, do you think it would be a good idea to run it in there to, ive been running the castrol with lucas addative since break in with no problems so far. no cats on the car of course. maybe ill run the regular vr1 in it think the difference is it has detergents and less zinc but more zinc than the conventional oils.
 
I don't think it breaks down any faster but they can let a daily driven engine get "dirty" inside much faster than detergent oils. Like you say that makes no difference in an engine that's "over-maintained" like these are.
I don't know enough about the cam or springs in the Chevelle... Maybe give the shop a ring and ask? I'd think the regular VR-1 would be fine for it but they'd know best as they built it.
 
MRL Performance said:
I break them in on 20w50. The thicker oil is able to suspend the fine metal particles better so the filter can get them out of the oil. I have been using it for years and the guy I work with on the dyno uses it on everything, even 2000hp Turbo BBC abd such. After break in we normally run 10w30.
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Do you still need to add a zddp additive to this?
 
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