Best hydraulic clutch set up?

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dart360swinger

dart360swinger

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The 2 kits I'm looking at are the universal Mcleod kit ($500ish) sold by brewers and a few other places and the American Powertrains ($670ish) kit. The A.P. kit uses a dowel rod to locate the slave cylinder and also uses their adjustable clutch master cylinder mount. It also comes with the shims to set the correct depth to the fingers.
I'd be curious to hear from anyone who has used either of these kits or if there are any other options out there.
TIA

Mcleod kit:
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists

A.P. kit:
HYDRAMAX Hydraulic Clutch Conversion System for Mopar with 23-Spline A-833 - American Powertrain
 
dart360swinger said:
The 2 kits I'm looking at are the universal Mcleod kit ($500ish) sold by brewers and a few other places and the American Powertrains ($670ish) kit. The A.P. kit uses a dowel rod to locate the slave cylinder and also uses their adjustable clutch master cylinder mount. It also comes with the shims to set the correct depth to the fingers.
I'd be curious to hear from anyone who has used either of these kits or if there are any other options out there.
TIA

Mcleod kit:
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists

A.P. kit:
HYDRAMAX Hydraulic Clutch Conversion System for Mopar with 23-Spline A-833 - American Powertrain
Click to expand...
I have used both I would buy American powertrain. I think it’s the better setup
 
72Duster440 said:
I'm in the process of installing the Eastside Motorsport kit, which I think is similar to the American Powertrain setup. It hasn't been without issue, the spacing for the throwout bearing didn't work with the parts it came with, but other than that, it seems like a good kit. I haven't finished the install yet.

MOPAR HYDRAULIC KIT – TREMEC 5 AND 6-SPEED, 18-SPLINE A833 - EastSide Motorsports
Click to expand...
That’s the 3rd version of what looks to be the exact same kit. I wonder who the original manufacture is for them.
 
American power train is the easier to install and it comes with a couple different ways of setting it up. I would buy it with the master cylinder and all McLead is nice but it requires two collars and if one gets damaged you can’t just buy the collars.
 
I have Malwood kits in 72 Duster 69 Roadrunner and a 56 Chevy. My opinion it’s the only way to go if wanting to go the hydraulic route.
 
I had to do it on a budget, but I saved about $200. I ended up with the McLeod TOB and lines, and basically the American Powertrain bracket,master and linkage thanks to a few members here. I’m still installing it but it seems like it’s going to be a nice set up.
 
I had the American Powertrain kit in my A body because at the time Malwood didn’t offer anything Mopar when I did the auto to manual conversion. I located the pedal push rod in the spot on the pedal arm where the factory stud was and with that I guess the ratio was not optimal as I ended up with a stiff pedal and using a pedal stop as directed per the instructions the throw itself was very short. I hated it. Very pleased with the Malwood kits and customer service is also excellent. The kit includes everything needed except for your choice of release bearing. I’m using Ram in the B body and Chevy. The American Powertrain bearing from the kit is still in the A body.
 
If you have to buy the pedals and the hydraulic unit . malwood probably a cheaper way to go
 
E Satterfield said:
I had the American Powertrain kit in my A body because at the time Malwood didn’t offer anything Mopar when I did the auto to manual conversion. I located the pedal push rod in the spot on the pedal arm where the factory stud was and with that I guess the ratio was not optimal as I ended up with a stiff pedal and using a pedal stop as directed per the instructions the throw itself was very short. I hated it. Very pleased with the Malwood kits and customer service is also excellent. The kit includes everything needed except for your choice of release bearing. I’m using Ram in the B body and Chevy. The American Powertrain bearing from the kit is still in the A body.
Click to expand...

How do you like the Ram bearing (I assume 78143) vs the Hydramax?
 
Muswagon said:
How do you like the Ram bearing (I assume 78143) vs the Hydramax?
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Hello. I am using the 78143 in my 69 Road Runner also have a Ram bearing in the wife’s 56 Chevy. So far no problems with either. The AP kit had only been in the Duster for a summer when I replaced it with the Malwood pedal so that is the reason for not buying another bearing for it Both brands were about the same in regards to shimming it to specs. However the aluminum spacer with the anti spin stud that came with the AP kit didn’t have enough shims provided in the kit to get the proper spacing which I had read others have had the same problem and they were more than happy to sell me another thicker spacer at an added cost.

I used strictly shims on the B-body and made my own extended anti spin stud for one of the bearing retainer bolts with a long grade 8 bolt with the head cut off and a jam nut . You may or may not need to do this depending on your needed spacing to your clutch the provided stud may be sufficient . Speedway sells a tool for setting up the distance which is well worth the money Speedway Hydraulic Clutch Release Bearing Set-Up Tool
 
Curious why you made your own stud with the 78143? On the ram website it looks like it comes with the stud? Or by extended maybe the one they included was too short?

I bought the Speedway tool, looks like it will take out alot of math lol
 
The amount of spacing that was required with my bellhousing ( Lakewood Alum) and clutch (McLeod SS Pro) the provided stud I felt was too short. Very possible that the Ram will be fine in your application. I was able to use the provided one in the Chevy without issues.
 
Gotcha, I have pretty much the same setup, have the Lakewood BBM bell and a street pro mcleod clutch

Really appreciate the info!
 
I had to make my own longer stud as well. The one that came with my kit was also too short.

20230224_142055.jpg
 
E Satterfield said:
I’m no expert but feel free to PM if you have any further questions. Eric.
Click to expand...

I would love to PM, but my inbox is full and I cannot figure out how to delete??? lol

Anyway, on the Hydramax bearing, the collar you said is too short, can one just machine a spacer behind it to make up the distance? Or does it absolutely require the new piece from American Powertrain?
 
On mine the kit didn’t come with enough shims to get the desired spacing. I had read some posts on other forums where others had the same issue. I called AP and asked about ordering more shims and the technician suggested that I purchase another spacer that I believe was intended for a Ford which was thicker. You could use additional shims if needed to get what’s required instead of purchasing another spacer with stud.

Technically you could use all shims and eliminate the spacer as long as you have an adequate length anti spin stud
 
I figured out what size shim pack I was going to need to get the correct measurements, then just ordered a spacer of that size from McMaster, works perfectly.
 
superbirdrag said:
hey
malwoodusa.com makes a under dash pedal hydraulic master kit. Any one try it ?
Click to expand...
This looks like a very nice setup, was just speaking to them about this today. Ross McCombs originator of QuickTime bellhousings works there now. Ross has given me outstanding service on my QuickTime products over the years, and still does. I am considering this setup.
 
Does the Malwood kit come with a manual style brake pedal too? Been looking at this setup and really like it for my Gen III/T56 Duster build.
 
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