Best Method of Sealing Timing Cover/Oil Pan

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krazyquadridr

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Ok, so I've read several posts about sealing the oil pan, but I'm looking for a tried and true method of sealing both the timing cover and oil pan in one installation. I would like to only do this once, so I'm looking for suggestions. Anyone got any success stories? Thanks
 
I don't know of any one gasket that covers both. But the best way I know of
is. Install the front cover first. then use a small dab of silicone sealer where
the pan gasket meets the front cover.
If any one knows of a late model rubber gasket that's fits the old style LA
blocks let me know! I heard of this but can't figure it out myself. I know the
GM small blocks have a set up like this and it works well.
Come on guys. Lets help him out!
 
Yup. By the book. Timing cover first, then oil pan. However, there are a few tips along the way. First, make sure the oil pan rails are good and straight and the pan bolt holes are not crushed in. If they are, flip the pan inside up, place the rail on the work bench edge and tap the holes flat again with a ball peen hammer. Then, make sure the rails are good and straight.

Install the timing cover with a light coat of silicone around the water pump holes only, on both sides of the gasket. Everywhere else needs to be dry, unless you want to use an adhesive like 3M yellow weatherstrip just to hold it in place everywhere else. The silicone in those two spots is usually enough. Install the timing cover and put silicone on the threads on all of the timing cover bolts. Also later on the threads on all the water pump bolts. This will prevent them from rusting up and breaking in the future when you replace the water pump or timing chain. You'll also want to install the balancer before you make your final tightening sequence on the timing cover. This will assure the cover is centered on the front crank seal and help prevent leaks. Once the balancer is installed, tighten the timing cover bolts fully.

Install the oil pan end seals and gaskets. Again just use adhesive on the gaskets to hold them in place. Nothing on the seals. When you get that done, take a small dab of silicone and put it in each of the 4 corners where the cork gaskets meet the seals. Install the oil pan and torque the bolts to spec. 5-8 foot pounds is sufficient. Do not over torque it or it will leak. You can use blue locktite on the oil pan bolts. I would not use red as they are small and will likely break if you ever have to remove them. Only use silicone though on the oil pan bolts that go into the timing cover.
 
I've used this Milodon crush proof oil pan gasket with great results.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-40600

However, I did the opposite. I put a light coat of RTV on one side of the gasket, stuck it to the pan, then put another light coat of RTV on the other side of gasket, and placed it on the block and tightened her up.

I plan to do my 318 like that either today or tomorrow, whenever that pan gasket comes...
 
The tips for sealing an oil pan are super, but the most important thing is to make sure the crankcase can breathe. Hook up a Pcv valve in one valve cover and an air filter, on the opposite side, to stop most of the oil leaks before they start.
 
That is the hardest place to seal. Probably did 10 big and small blocks. Napa has a $18 tube, think it is called great stuff, clean everything with ether, and it actually works.
 
use permatex "Right Stuff" gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket and in the corners. Snug them up evenly at first then let it cure before final tightening.
 
yeah, right stuff. That stuff works better than anything I ever used. And I started out as a chebby mech in 1969.
 
Whenever using silicone sealants, always let it cure for 24 hours, as Mo-Par indicated, before adding any type of fluid or running the engine.
 
I'm planning on degreeing my cam and assembling the timing cover this weekend. Good tip on centering the cover first!
But I do have a question. I cleaned my timing cover yesterday and installed the seal. My question is this. Does the seal go flush to the outside? If so it will be sticking out inside the cover. Right now I have it flush on the inside and it's sticking up about 3/16" on the outside.

Thanks...............Ted
 
Buy the late model Magnum one piece pan gasket. Cut the ends off and use the LA timing cover and rear pan seal. Use high temp silicone on the corners where the end seals meet the Magnum gasket. A lot better than worrying about over-tightening the cork gasket. Works nice.
 
Mo-Par said:
use permatex "Right Stuff" gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket and in the corners. Snug them up evenly at first then let it cure before final tightening.
Click to expand...

What he said!! Make sure to let it cure overnight. I had to redo dads oil pan and timing cover cuz the cork gasket was getting squeezed out.
 
On things like oil pans and valve covers (thin stamped steel) make sure your gasket surfaces are flat and clean.

Over the years these things get over tightened and distorted around the bolt holes.
 
mopardude318 said:
I've used this Milodon crush proof oil pan gasket with great results.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-40600

However, I did the opposite. I put a light coat of RTV on one side of the gasket, stuck it to the pan, then put another light coat of RTV on the other side of gasket, and placed it on the block and tightened her up.

I plan to do my 318 like that either today or tomorrow, whenever that pan gasket comes...
Click to expand...
+1 those gaskets work really well , they don't crack and shift like the cork gaskets . They just did mine with these gaskets , 500 miles and not one drop of oil . l changed the crank gasket at the same time . These work , no more leaks .
 
blewbyoutobad said:
Buy the late model Magnum one piece pan gasket. Cut the ends off and use the LA timing cover and rear pan seal. Use high temp silicone on the corners where the end seals meet the Magnum gasket. A lot better than worrying about over-tightening the cork gasket. Works nice.
Click to expand...
I just bought a magnum gasket, and la timing cover. Trying to figure out what I am supposed to cut...
 
From Magnum swap.com

Tips and Tricks
5.9 Magnum “One Piece” Oil Pan Gasket
When using an LA timing cover, it is still possible to use the one piece oil pan gasket from the Magnum engines. Simply use the front ‘U ‘from the timing cover kit—you’ll need one to install the timing cover and water pump anyway–and cut away the corresponding U-shaped piece on the Magnum gasket. A little Rite StuffTM where the rubber gasket meets the new U, and VOILA! Leak free fit!

Scram Speed now sells a gasket kit specifically for this purpose, using the same gaskets we do.

 
Bought the gaskets, havemt opened em up yet. Maybe it'll make sense one I see em. Bout the "rite stuff" as well.
 
I use a billet front timing cover housing with an o-ring seal for the cover. With this setup the cover can be removed without disturbing the oil pan seal. The o-ring provides a good seal with the cover so you don't have to scrape gaskets or use RTV or anything like that.

AR374a (Large).JPG
 
TrailBeast said:
From Magnum swap.com

Tips and Tricks
5.9 Magnum “One Piece” Oil Pan Gasket
When using an LA timing cover, it is still possible to use the one piece oil pan gasket from the Magnum engines. Simply use the front ‘U ‘from the timing cover kit—you’ll need one to install the timing cover and water pump anyway–and cut away the corresponding U-shaped piece on the Magnum gasket. A little Rite StuffTM where the rubber gasket meets the new U, and VOILA! Leak free fit!

Scram Speed now sells a gasket kit specifically for this purpose, using the same gaskets we do.
Click to expand...
Or take a hammer and dolly to the corners of the la oil pan to knock the two "dents" out and use the magnum pan gasket. I put a little rtv in the re shaped area just in case.
 
75slant6 said:
Or take a hammer and dolly to the corners of the la oil pan to knock the two "dents" out and use the magnum pan gasket. I put a little rtv in the re shaped area just in case.
Click to expand...

That works as well.
 
So if you were in the market for a new pan anyway it would make more sense to buy a magnum pan and just use the one piece magnum gasket?
 
skep419 said:
So if you were in the market for a new pan anyway it would make more sense to buy a magnum pan and just use the one piece magnum gasket?
Click to expand...
Maybe it has something to do with using a LA timing cover. Plus, don't think a magnum pan has a center sump option.
 
Shainesboostin said:
Maybe it has something to do with using a LA timing cover. Plus, don't think a magnum pan has a center sump option.
Click to expand...
Magnum pan would fit the la timing cover but like you said, I don't believe there's any magnum pan with a center sump
 
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