Best Method of Sealing Timing Cover/Oil Pan

[TrailBeast]

Magnum pan would fit the la timing cover but like you said, I don't believe there's any magnum pan with a center sump

This is correct.

 

[skep419]

This is where I see a problem. The stamped indent in the rear of the kevko pan rolls the gasket out of place.
Anybody hammered it out.

 

[iw378]

I use a billet front timing cover housing with an o-ring seal for the cover. With this setup the cover can be removed without disturbing the oil pan seal. The o-ring provides a good seal with the cover so you don't have to scrape gaskets or use RTV or anything like that.

View attachment 1714969317

That looks nice but appears one is bound to use something other than a standard water pump ?

 

[skep419]

Called kevko and they recommended using RTV silicone (Im going to use right stuff) for the rear seal. No gasket just sealer.

Do to the rib/dimple in the rear of the pan.

 

[66fs]

Yup. By the book. Timing cover first, then oil pan. However, there are a few tips along the way. First, make sure the oil pan rails are good and straight and the pan bolt holes are not crushed in. If they are, flip the pan inside up, place the rail on the work bench edge and tap the holes flat again with a ball peen hammer. Then, make sure the rails are good and straight.

Install the timing cover with a light coat of silicone around the water pump holes only, on both sides of the gasket. Everywhere else needs to be dry, unless you want to use an adhesive like 3M yellow weatherstrip just to hold it in place everywhere else. The silicone in those two spots is usually enough. Install the timing cover and put silicone on the threads on all of the timing cover bolts. Also later on the threads on all the water pump bolts. This will prevent them from rusting up and breaking in the future when you replace the water pump or timing chain. You'll also want to install the balancer before you make your final tightening sequence on the timing cover. This will assure the cover is centered on the front crank seal and help prevent leaks. Once the balancer is installed, tighten the timing cover bolts fully.

Install the oil pan end seals and gaskets. Again just use adhesive on the gaskets to hold them in place. Nothing on the seals. When you get that done, take a small dab of silicone and put it in each of the 4 corners where the cork gaskets meet the seals. Install the oil pan and torque the bolts to spec. 5-8 foot pounds is sufficient. Do not over torque it or it will leak. You can use blue locktite on the oil pan bolts. I would not use red as they are small and will likely break if you ever have to remove them. Only use silicone though on the oil pan bolts that go into the timing cover.

Only thing I can add is torque the bolts two or three times with hours in between.

 

[YY1]

I found a couple things while doing mine last weekend, with the engine upside down on a srand.

1- I ordered a Mopar brand gasket. It's black fiber. The end of the gasket that butts up to where the rubber seal installs on the timing cover was too long...and the bolt holes didn't line up.

I had to cut to length with a razor, and elongate the holes with a rat tail file.
It was only like this on one end, but it was both gaskets.

I can see people not cutting this off, and having the gasket bunch up...right in that critical area.

2- I put a thin bead of black RTV along the groove where the block meets the timing cover.
It's barely noticeable, but it's there and will catch your fingernail.

3- I put a bit of black RTV on the "step" where the rubber seal meets the pan, just under the "tit" that holds it to the metal, and a bit more under and around the tit it's self.

Finally, as is usually suggested, I put more RTV (thin layer) across the flat top of the seal, where it lays on the fiber gasket, and a fillet where the gap is where the seal/pan/gasket all meet.

There are five things meeting in this area Pan, block, timing cover, pan rail gasket, rubber seal.
IMO every one of those joints needs a dab of RTV.

 

[YY1]

Of course perform a similar operation on the rear.

...and I torqued to 120 in/lb starting at 60 and going up 20 each time, first the bolts in the center, then alternating out one on each side.

 

[Shainesboostin]

This is where I see a problem. The stamped indent in the rear of the kevko pan rolls the gasket out of place.
Anybody hammered it out.

Called kevko and they recommended using RTV silicone (Im going to use right stuff) for the rear seal. No gasket just sealer.

Do to the rib/dimple in the rear of the pan.

why is it only me and you have this issue? Do other pans not have that dimple? What did you end up doing?

 

[75slant6]

Just put the damn thing together and see if it leaks.