best oil for cam breakin

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So I've been doing some reading on oil for hydraulic cams and came across a lot of sights saying the oils now are removing the the level of Zddp in there oils that helps with the wear protection, that's critical for the hydraulic cam. Or so I've read. Anyway my concern is I am about to break in a new hydraulic flat tappet cam and would like to get the best odds possible for a successful break in. I've read rotella-t 15-40 is good for a break in any thought on this? I realize with the added cam break in additive. I came across a couple others like vr1 racing oil or something like a high mileage oil.
Anyway I just started assembling my motor again after wiping the number one exhaust lobe and Do not want to do this again for practice.
Any input on what some of u guys are using for break in and maybe what you use for around town cruising. Wiping the lobe was my fault I didn't get the correct pushrod length before breaking the cam in, just plain inexperience on my part not the cams fault. It wont happen again. I got my fingers crossed. I hope to have this engine back up and running by next weekend maybe. I haven't ordered my oil pump yet as I was running a regular oil pump before but am wondering about a higher flowing oil pump but don't have a deep oil pan and read they suck to much from the pan. Any thoughts on this one would be greatly appreciated as well.
 
Don't use a high mileage oil. The vr1 is good I would still put a bottle of zinc or brake in additive for the first fire up.
 
The oil doesn't matter, just use what you've been using (as long as it's not synthetic). None of today's mainstream oils have the right amount of anti-wear properties for a cam break-in anyway, so that's where the break-in additive comes in. The Lucas break-in additive is a decent one and is found at every Oreilly here, and probably available in your area too.

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=82&catid=9&loc=show

Tip: Mix the additive with the oil BEFORE pooring it into the motor. No need to take any chances of the cam not getting the right amount of zinc because it hasn't mixed yet.
 
UOP said:
The oil doesn't matter, just use what you've been using (as long as it's not synthetic). None of today's mainstream oils have the right amount of anti-wear properties for a cam break-in anyway, so that's where the break-in additive comes in. The Lucas break-in additive is a decent one and is found at every Oreilly here, and probably available in your area too.

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=82&catid=9&loc=show

Tip: Mix the additive with the oil BEFORE pooring it into the motor. No need to take any chances of the cam not getting the right amount of zinc because it hasn't mixed yet.
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Have lucas breakin, I bought it just in case. Thanks...
 
You should research products with high Zink & Phosphorus (ZDDP/ZDTP) levels in them. Pretty critical for break-in periods, and quite a few companies offer them. I’m not into promoting products, I’m into more of the product contents rather than advertisements. That being said, I was given some Joe Gibbs break-in oil, and I will say….. The last couple of break-in’s have actually sounded smoother. For me, I only run engine oil that has the highest Z&P levels. Like removing lead from fuel, adding Ethanol to fuel & phasing out Z&P in oils, companies are killing older engines by removing elements that kept them happy!
My2cts

A good read re: Lifters & cam's

http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/10/18/tech-101-zinc-in-oil-and-its-effects-on-older-engines/
 
The XE284 should have double springs - that means there is the main outer spring of round wire, pressed inside the dampener of flat wound wire, and inside of that is an entirely seperate smaller round wire spring. If that is what you have you need to make sure the inner springs were not installed on the heads and break the cam in with just the outer w/the dampener. If you ran the first cam with inners installed - that's why you lost a lobe. The cm is not that large.
I would recommend using the Not For Street use VR1 to break in the cam, or 14/40 fleet with a can of zink break in lube. Follow the procedure in regard to time and rpm and you should be golden. Once it's done - install the inner springs.
 
The main thing when breaking in a flat tappet cam is that the engine starts quick. The sure way to kill one is cranking and cranking and not firing. It has to fire quick and get the revs up for break in. Make sure every thing is ready to go carb, timing and cooling system is up to the task. Once you have it started you want to keep it running until came is broke in.
 
Johnny Dart said:
Comp cam,I would use Comp Break in oil.
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In fact if you read the literature that comes with Comp cams it states that the warranty is void if you do NOT use Comp Break-in oil. And yeah it is very important that the engine fires up right away.

I'm working on a young friend's 351W for his 69 FB Torino and he bought a Thumpr cam so that's how I know. (also Trick-Flo heads) Last time I was in the Summit store, I bought the Comp oil for his engine cause I don't want to screw it up.
 
KosmicKuda said:
In fact if you read the literature that comes with Comp cams it states that the warranty is void if you do NOT use Comp Break-in oil. And yeah it is very important that the engine fires up right away.

I'm working on a young friend's 351W for his 69 FB Torino and he bought a Thumpr cam so that's how I know. (also Trick-Flo heads) Last time I was in the Summit store, I bought the Comp oil for his engine cause I don't want to screw it up.
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I'm going to have to order the comp cams break in add, it didn't come with this cam for some reason. I've ordered several cams and all of them came with add except lunati I had to pay extra for the add oil. I don't know maybe I paid for it and didn't know it on the other cams I just thought when you purchased a cam the add oil cam with it. I did realize I would have to use a additive with the cam break in but I was really looking for a good oil brand to use with the break in and after to keep it alive. I don't have dual springs I have the 1110 springs that come with the rhs heads, 120# seat and something like 310# open. I did talk to comp cams when I bought this cam actually they suggested it and said these springs would work with this cam. Any thoughts on the oil pump question?
 
I myself don't use high volume pumps. I feel they put too much stress on the pump drive shaft. I hope you pulled engine completely apart and knocked out all oil plugs and cleaned all the debris from the wiped out cam. If you didn't you will wipe out another cam and much more. Clean is most important when building an engine.
 
67cudafb said:
I myself don't use high volume pumps. I feel they put too much stress on the pump drive shaft. I hope you pulled engine completely apart and knocked out all oil plugs and cleaned all the debris from the wiped out cam. If you didn't you will wipe out another cam and much more. Clean is most important when building an engine.
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took it completely apart washed it in the driveway, washed all parts and blew it all out with compressed air. Thanks for the input.
 
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