Cut them off and replace, don’t reuse U bolts, they’re too cheap not to replace.
Be sure to measure them first, I made that mistake once or twice.
Cut them off and replace, don’t reuse U bolts, they’re too cheap not to replace.
U bolts are cheap. The fight isnt worth $30 imho.
I bought new ones for the barracuda,i have removed my diff 6 times now, roll it in shop, set up rotisserie and pull diff and springs.
Sunday i re-assemble and roll it back into storage.
Mancini has the correct U Bolts.I read somewhere that replacement u-bolts are not flat (like factory ones( where they contact the differential tubes and when you tighten them down, they actually dent the tubes. Any truth to that?
Screw that.Cut them off and replace, don’t reuse U bolts, they’re too cheap not to replace.
I agree. Personally, I prefer Mopar Heater Control Solvent. It was made for heat risers, I think, but it'll work on anything rusty. Heat was mentioned, and that can help. I'd also suggest an impact gun w/ 6pt impact socket, but like the quoted post, work the nut gradually back and forth carefully. Be patient. It is usually worth trying to save the factory u-bolts, because aftermarket bolts are not flattened at the u-bend and are not friendly to the housing tube like the oem bolts.Any the above. PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or Kroil. Then time, and patience. Brush the exposed threads with a small wire brush first. Allow the penetrant to soak for a day. When you put your socket on ti, try tightening first but only 1/16 of a turn. Then loosen but do not try to remove all at once if it gets so hard to turn it feels like it will break. Work the nut back and forth until it comes off easily.
Some folks just cut and replace all the U bolts, 'cause doing all 8 like this can take some time.
Screw that.
I reuse them all the time. Stuff over here doesn't rust and break when you work on it.
Again, AMK has the correct flattened crosshatch bolts in 2 different lengths and the correct tall lock nuts. AMK has a big paper catalog for like $20.00 or $25.00. Get online, order the bolts and nuts and one of their catalogs, It has all of the neat OE bolts and nuts and other assorted for GM, Ford, and Mopar.. It is well worth the money!
Dang, that’s high, even though the books says 45 ft lbs.the u-bolts aren't supposed to be tightened so they damage axle tubes. the highest I have seen for late models is like 80 foot-lbs
locktite also serves as an anti-seize by sealing the threads to prevent corrosion
Liquid Wrench did the best in this guy's test, with acetone/ATF in 2nd. Kroil did the WORST. FYI-
Here's part 2. In this one, deep creep (sea foam) did the best, with CRC very close behind.
Going to remove the rear end from the '65 Formula S in order to tip it on its side and paint the bottom floorboard. I hear PB Blaster is good (don't know if it's sold in stores around here). Any other recommendations? Thank you.
Any the above. PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or Kroil. Then time, and patience. Brush the exposed threads with a small wire brush first. Allow the penetrant to soak for a day. When you put your socket on ti, try tightening first but only 1/16 of a turn. Then loosen but do not try to remove all at once if it gets so hard to turn it feels like it will break. Work the nut back and forth until it comes off easily.
Some folks just cut and replace all the U bolts, 'cause doing all 8 like this can take some time.
Fluid film if you arent in a hurry.In that video above, he is using Fluid Film in the wrong application, that's why it does not work well. It's not made for use as a penetrating oil, even though it says that as one of the uses on the label. It's best use is for coating parts for storage so they will not rust. For that, it is badass. I like that guy's tests, too. Look how well the Sea Foam does. I've been tellin yall that stuff is the shizzle.