Best suspension for new restoration??

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Blucuda413

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I'm planning ahead for restoration of my 6 cyl Notchback that I've had stored for several years. Goal is to have an excellent street machine not a bolt and nut factory job. I currently have a complete V8 front suspension and a 8 3/4 rear that could be used. Engine and trans will be a procharged 360 and a reverse valve body 727 I have. However I'm not limiting myself to those suspension items. I'm open to any suspension package that is available and can basically be bolt on if possible. I would even consider an IRS if it could be adapted without too much trouble. What are your suggestions?? Thanks, Max
 
I'd second the Hotchkiss TVS, recomendation, a fraction of the cost of the aftermarket coil over systems, and proven to be superior in the handling department also.
 
We offer a full line of suspension upgrades from stock to bolt in coil over conversions from HDK. We offer a discount to members of the forum and free shipping within the USA 48 states. If you have any questions please let me know.

Thanks
James From
PST Marketing
 
Blucuda413 said:
I'm planning ahead for restoration of my 6 cyl Notchback that I've had stored for several years. Goal is to have an excellent street machine not a bolt and nut factory job. I currently have a complete V8 front suspension and a 8 3/4 rear that could be used. Engine and trans will be a procharged 360 and a reverse valve body 727 I have. However I'm not limiting myself to those suspension items. I'm open to any suspension package that is available and can basically be bolt on if possible. I would even consider an IRS if it could be adapted without too much trouble. What are your suggestions?? Thanks, Max
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Gerst Tubular Suspensions | Custom Suspension Kits
 
If you have cubic dollars to waste then any of the tubular kits will work. There is nothing wrong with the factory stuff that you already have, so a PST kit would be thousands cheaper. I have used RMS, Control Freak, and factory and if you don't need room to run ginoromass headers then the factory torsion bar suspension is fine with brake upgrades.
 
replicaracer43 said:
I'd second the Hotchkiss TVS, recomendation, a fraction of the cost of the aftermarket coil over systems, and proven to be superior in the handling department also.
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TVS kit $2100 TVS (Total Vehicle Suspension) System 1973-1976 Dodge A-Body
Torsion bars $239 but this site gets discount 1.03" Torsion Bar - A Body
front end kit $359 assuming you are running 73-up disc brakes. also discounted through this site. Original Performance Super Front End Kit
shocks $435 but again can be discounted through site. may also want to upgrade to even better shocks but are more expensive. Bilstein High Performance Shock Set - Front & Rear
steering box $836 Bergman Auto Craft - Home of the Modern Muscle Car


up to $3959 (without site discounts) already and that doesn't include a brake kit, bearings, brake hoses and the other lil **** you'll end up needing by the time you are done... at this point its not near as much cheaper then an alter-k as many make it seem.. some upgrades you may consider during the process fox shocks(not sure on the price but more expensive then what i posted above) and adjustable strut rods think rms has them for $249 (pst sells rms strut rods with a pst decal on it)... so now you are over 4K for a stock style suspension... then if you can't press bushings in and out at home or a friends you may have to pay for that on top of the parts.



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abodyjoe said:
TVS kit 2100 dollars TVS (Total Vehicle Suspension) System 1973-1976 Dodge A-Body
Torsion bars 239 dollars but this site gets discount 1.03" Torsion Bar - A Body
front end kit 359 dollars assuming you are running 73-up disc brakes. also discounted through this site. Original Performance Super Front End Kit
shocks 435 dollars but again can be discounted through site. may also want to upgrade to even better shocks but are more expensive. Bilstein High Performance Shock Set - Front & Rear
steering box 836 dollars. Bergman Auto Craft - Home of the Modern Muscle Car


up to $3959 (without site discount) already and that doesn't include a brake kit, bearings, brake hoses and the other lil **** you'll end up needing by the time you are done... at this point its not near as much cheaper then an alter-k as many make it seem.. some upgrades you may consider during the process fox shocks(not sure on the price but more expensive then what i posted above) and adjustable strut rods think rms has them for like $259 (pst sells rms strut rods with a pst decal on it)... so now you are over 4K for a stock style suspension... then if you can't press bushings in and out at home or a friends you may have to pay for that on top of the parts.



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thank you.
 
La-Motor said:
You asked for best suspension...if money were no object than I would go with RMS AlterKtion front and RMS street Lynx for the rear.
Reilly MotorSports, Inc.

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I can't speak for the other suspension systems but I can comment on RMS as that is what I'm using, both front and rear. The difference from using the stock suspension is amazing! I rebuilt the old suspension using firm-feel steering box , bigger torsion bars, 11/16 tie rods, gusseted the k frame and boxed the lower control arms and even though it was a very good improvement , it can't compare to rack and pinion and double adjustable coil overs and the new front and rear sway bars I have now. I also used US Cartool subframe connectors and torque boxes. A big plus is the amount of extra working room in the engine compartment and the resultant weight loss over the front end. I agree with Hemi SS Dart though, it wasn't cheap!!
 
AAndrews said:
I can't speak for the other suspension systems but I can comment on RMS as that is what I'm using, both front and rear. The difference from using the stock suspension is amazing! I rebuilt the old suspension using firm-feel steering box , bigger torsion bars, 11/16 tie rods, gusseted the k frame and boxed the lower control arms and even though it was a very good improvement , it can't compare to rack and pinion and double adjustable coil overs and the new front and rear sway bars I have now. I also used US Cartool subframe connectors and torque boxes. A big plus is the amount of extra working room in the engine compartment and the resultant weight loss over the front end. I agree with Hemi SS Dart though, it wasn't cheap!!
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Granted , mine drives like a drag car, but $1900 for a complete magnum force front end, that I built strut rods the same length as factory for,, DO`NT SOUND TOO BAD !
It was supposed to have 9 runs on it, and was very tite and felt, looked like new.
 
abodyjoe said:
Magnum force? Hell no.
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I was a little skeptic of it after reading some peoples thots on them, that's the reason I built the strut rods for it , only heard of one real failure, of one tho.
Not much worse than the caltrac ride on the other end !
 
famous bob said:
Granted , mine drives like a drag car, but $1900 for a complete magnum force front end, that I built strut rods the same length as factory for,, DO`NT SOUND TOO BAD !
It was supposed to have 9 runs on it, and was very tite and felt, looked like new.
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Magnum force, like AJE, is cheap for a reason. It's thin walled, cheap metal and cheaply built. Look up the numerous complaints and failures with pictures that are around the web. I'd be really leery to run either of them on the street, let alone at speed
 
I did a bunch of research and eventually bought the Gerst setup. I have not driven the car yet, but the system fits perfectly, and Carl Gerst himself answered the phone when I called with a couple of questions. The AlterKtion setup is very popular as well, and I hear its well made too, but after doing my homework, I went with the Gerst, and I'm VERY happy with it in terms of fit, quality and customer service.


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figure 1st what you want to do with your car. Better than average street cruising? Spirited twisty roads? Occasional Auto X?, Monthly Auto X & a couple road course track days a year?
I figure if Hotchkis can make a 4 door Satellite outperform a BMW on a road course, that's good enough for my Dart. You should also improve the chassis stiffness with something like the USCarTool kit. Plus, I wanted to keep my torsion bar suspension cause it’s different than what the other guys have.
For the next level of performance, you can look into Reilly Motorsports Alter-K-tion and Street Lynx packages,
 
Garry in AZ said:
I did a bunch of research and eventually bought the Gerst setup. I have not driven the car yet, but the system fits perfectly, and Carl Gerst himself answered the phone when I called with a couple of questions. The AlterKtion setup is very popular as well, and I hear its well made too, but after doing my homework, I went with the Gerst, and I'm VERY happy with it in terms of fit, quality and customer service.


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What made you go with the Gerst system over the Alterkation?
 
I got the PST 1.03 torsion bars and tie rod bars with tubular a arms from POL. Does the job for me. Out back EPSO springs HD 6 leaf. My car is built by always short budgeted spontaneous impulse buys. Certainly fully engineered bolt in K-frames with full kit is the way to go if you have deep pockets.
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RogerRamRod said:
figure 1st what you want to do with your car. Better than average street cruising? Spirited twisty roads? Occasional Auto X?, Monthly Auto X & a couple road course track days a year?
....snip...,
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YES

And add: occasional drag strip, lots of drag strip, never autocross course or track day BUT taken to drag strip...
 
Guys keep the discussion going I'm learning much more here than I ever would elsewhere. I don't plan on an unlimited budget but I've let the budget keeper know it's not going to be cheap. It is my reward for giving up racing which my family has been after me to do for a few years. Next year is my last race year, I will turn 80, and I will also probably start gathering parts for the street notchback. My racecar is a 68 Notchback also and I've got a new blown smallblock in it that I hope to get to the track before years end and I'm getting close.
 
mopowers said:
What made you go with the Gerst system over the Alterkation?
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I also have a complete Gerst setup, for me it was a combination of factors after seeing the Hemidenny, The Alterkation and the Gerst all at mopar Nats in person and talking with each of them.

Just a few things that factored into mine:

Price:

Adjustability/tune abilities- Adjustable track width up front, full tuneable watts link rear

Durability:

Completeness. Gerst was the only one at the time including brakes as part of its baseline pricing with various upgrades available. The others


And this one was the biggest for me.

Parts sourcing. Only the Gerst at the time could tell me he used 100 percent American made parts from high quality race component suppliers. Meaning not only durability but availability should a part fail. Some of the others either did not know or used unknown eBay suppliers. Made me leery.

I think you'd be more than ok going with the Gerst, the Hemidenny or the Alterkation if you're going to go the tubular route. I've never seen or heard of any of the above 3 breaking or failing.

Just avoid the cheap tube kits like AJE, Magnum Force etc. you get what you pay for and my car, my life and my passengers lives are worth more than saving a couple hundred bucks by going with an inferior product with known failures.
 
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