best type alternator?

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barbee6043

barbee6043

barbee 6043
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I will pose this questions to those with that fantastic electrical knowledge!!!!
my small herd of projects are basically this: 62-5 A bodies, stock slants to 273 cars, NO honkins sterios, no add ons, only thing I have been known to do is change over to MOPAR ecu. ( sorry no chevy HEI).
I try to read info in this forum as I admit to be lackin in electrical knowledge. when I replace the alt, I have been staying with the single field type, I even try to find one with the 35 amp vs 50-60 rating.
I have been runnin thru the in dash volt gauge for decades, even points and oem vr. ( I have bypassed the in dash volt gauge I admit years back)
should I buy a 2 field square back alt and just ground one of the fields??? or just stay with the smaller amp single field????? thanks
 
If you are not concerned about period correct, then the above sounds good to me, with either 35 or 50-60 amps.
 
barbee6043 said:
I always wondered if the 60-65 amp posed more of a potential wiring problem than the 35 amp ones????
Click to expand...

No. None of them will put out more than is called for by the regulator. Size/rating of the fusible link didn't change with the higher output alternators either.
Wiring problems either exist or they don't, even without an alternator.
 
RedFish said:
No. None of them will put out more than is called for by the regulator. Size/rating of the fusible link didn't change with the higher output alternators either.
Wiring problems either exist or they don't, even without an alternator.
Click to expand...
that being said, what is the best p lace to look for the VR???? the mechanical ones or the new age electronic ones?????? thanks for the input..
one another note, I was in a great smallish town NAPA store today. such a greater offering of stuff other than the usual o reilly, auto zone type store!! just me.....
 
What looks like yesterdays mechanical regulator on the outside usually has todays solid state components inside. They didn't regulate the same and probably still not regulating the same. The later model regulator that goes with isolated field ( 2 field wires ) will make the system a little hotter so other parts like solid state ignition don't suffer from low voltage. I haven't run comparison tests so I cant say for sure but... A replacement part is normally just that, equal in every aspect to its predecessor, no matter what it's made of. If this hold true with regulators, the little black box regulator, even solid state construction, wouldn't be correct/optimal for electronic ignition.
 
If what you have now is adequate for your needs rebuild current alternator or replace with similar. I've driven many miles with a 35A roundback and it's adequate for a stock 65 Dart, if only just.

The single field solid state VR is an improvement, far fewer voltage fluctuations and spikes (better with electronic ignition). The squareback with one field grounded is an upgrade over a roundback. A squareback with both fields running to a dual field VR is even better but requires some wiring.

A 60A squareback is plenty for a fan, more powerful lights and a reasonable stereo system. You can spend more on fancy high output alternators but they're overkill and bling in most cases.
 
I have several early A cars i'm piecing back together. I was "shopin" alternators at couple of local independent auto parts stores. I ordered an alternator at each store. price is $25-30 less than the "chain store" plus the owners warranties it for life, period. I ordered the round back a one store and a square back at other but asked for single ground field units. I got the same square back ( rated 60 amp) alternator at both stores, the "second" field connection on both sat on top of the insulator, each had slightly looking brass connector, neither would take a wire though.
I guess I can hook it up and see if car starts, runs???
 
The stock round-back alternator in my 65 Newport keeps the battery charged and I have an EFI fuel pump and throttle-body injection. I have a 1-wire electronic Vreg. I don't know if the alternator is 35 A or a juiced 60 A type. A radiator electic fan is what really draws amps. For those with dim headlamps at idle, that is usually more a problem of wiring harness drops (corrosion) than the alternator, since they should light fine from battery alone. That said, I put a square-back w/ 2-wire Vreg in my 65 Dart.
 
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