best way to get header studs out

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rp23g7

rp23g7

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Hey guys, the admin of the truck site hasnt given my rights to post yet, so since its just a 360 any way i will ask here. 84 Ram Charger.

I ordered new studs from Summit. What is the best way to get the old studs out? Soak in PB Blaster for a bit? Remove cold or after the motor is hot?

The engine has a set of Hooker Headers that are leaking on the right center flange, already ordered some Remflex gaskets.

Anyone know where to get a new engine harness? Why does everyone always hack up the harness?

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i usually double nut them, (tighten 2 nuts on the stud) and take off by (backing off) loosening the nut closest to the block.

hope this makes sense
 
definately soak in pb blaster for as long as you can, may have to heat the cylinder head around the stud keeping the heat way from the stud so it doesnt expand with the metal around it then quench the stud with the two nuts locked together with pb blaster to cool just the stud then remove.......
 
waggin said:
definately soak in pb blaster for as long as you can, may have to heat the cylinder head around the stud keeping the heat way from the stud so it doesnt expand with the metal around it then quench the stud with the two nuts locked together with pb blaster to cool just the stud then remove.......
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Yes ........that is the way !! otherwise you may snap it off in the head. then you are screwed.:prayer:
 
I usually work back n' forth until it starts to loosen (and usually as I'm backing it out, too). Seems to help get the penetrating oil down in there without overloading the stud.
 
When they snap off in the head, and they probably will, DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT, try to use an easy out to get them out.
It will just break off in you head and then you are really screwed.

Drill it out and retap the hole. or helicoil it.
you will not be able to drill out the easy out.
 
If the stud does break off (when it does it usually is pretty flush with the surface) you can always place a metal nut over the stud (even if it is slightly recessed in the head) and weld the stud and nut together through the nut hole. Then back the nut (now attached to the stud) out with a socket wrench.

The weld will bond to the nut and stud but not to the cast iron or aluminum heads. The heat transfer will also break the bond (rust) between the stud and the heads. I had a bolt that snapped off flush with the engine this weekend and it only took 30 seconds to get it out. Great method if you have a welder LOL.
 
thanks eveyone, i just spent 2 hrs with PB Blaster, loosening the "lets use whatever fastener is available to attach our headers"

Got them all loose, geez, why do people do a awsome job on some stuff then do crap like that???

Oh well, none of them broke, and i ordered a new stud kit from Summit, YAY
 
good addition to the thread!!!
jos51700 said:
I usually work back n' forth until it starts to loosen (and usually as I'm backing it out, too). Seems to help get the penetrating oil down in there without overloading the stud.
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I think I would almost want grade 5 in that application. Rather than break, they will twist first. The grade hardened studs are really brittle. They usually break first. Also, when you install them, coat the threads with red high temp permatex. This will do two important things. First of course, it will seal the threads from the water jacket so you won't get a coolant leak. Secondly, it will act like a lubricant if you ever need to back the studs out, they will come right out. Lastly, I use the red high temp permatex on ALL of the header bolts, not just the end studs. This will help assure they will all come back out again. Since they are next to exhaust posts, they have a nasty habit of siezing up sometimes.
 
That 0 guage wire passing through the firewall is kinda scary, it should have it's own hole with the right sized grommet. I hope there's a fuse between that wire and the battery.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Wish you were closer... I have a 86 RamCharger that will be going in parts soon.
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I will buy your wiring harness.

That wire had a 100 amp fuse on it, its already yanked outta there. I added a few ground straps and got rid of some of the garbage already.
 
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