Best Way to Seal Right Angle Oil Filter Adapter

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nerd racing

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I'm working on getting my 64 Barracuda ready for the driving season and there are a few things I'm looking for advice on.

1. How to get my right angle filter adapter to seal property. This is my 3rd Seal kit, it is the aluminum adapter set that a member on here graciously sent to me. I did a dry seal install and then tried using permatex in addition to the seals. The permatex seemed to leak less. Any suggestions from seasoned veterans? I'm hoping to eliminate the leaks because it will drop right on the Doug's headers I just finished installing and I'd prefer not to be the guy with the car blowing smoke all over the cars behind me.

2. Gasoline in the oil, a lot of it... I remember when I did my oil change I put in 5 quarts of oil and left at that because I didn't get a chance to run it more than back and forth between driveways. I took out 10 quarts of oil and gas mixture when I drained the oil to put the headers in. I'm thinking it's a carb issue (aftermarket edelbrock 4bbl looks fairly new) or possibly a perforated diaphragm on the fuel pump (which also looks to be fairly new). Which one is more likely in your experience?

3. Dual reservoir brake master cylinder swap. The car has the factory manual drums and single reservoir manual brake master cylinder. I'm planning on swapping to at least front disk brakes down the road, possibly the exploder 8.8 rear end with disk brakes too. Any suggestions on which master cylinder to use so I only have to buy a new one once? The emergency brake works well, should I not worry about the single reservoir system until I do the brake upgrades?

Thanks!
 
nerd racing said:
I'm working on getting my 64 Barracuda ready for the driving season and there are a few things I'm looking for advice on.

1. How to get my right angle filter adapter to seal property. This is my 3rd Seal kit, it is the aluminum adapter set that a member on here graciously sent to me. I did a dry seal install and then tried using permatex in addition to the seals. The permatex seemed to leak less. Any suggestions from seasoned veterans? I'm hoping to eliminate the leaks because it will drop right on the Doug's headers I just finished installing and I'd prefer not to be the guy with the car blowing smoke all over the cars behind me.

Personally, I like RTV for that stuff, because I HATE LEAKS.
Clean the surfaces of as much oil as possible, put it on wet and let it dry well before running.
(use just a thin wet film and tighten it up)
Keep in mind that those hollow bolts do snap off if tightened to much.

2. Gasoline in the oil, a lot of it... I remember when I did my oil change I put in 5 quarts of oil and left at that because I didn't get a chance to run it more than back and forth between driveways. I took out 10 quarts of oil and gas mixture when I drained the oil to put the headers in. I'm thinking it's a carb issue (aftermarket edelbrock 4bbl looks fairly new) or possibly a perforated diaphragm on the fuel pump (which also looks to be fairly new). Which one is more likely in your experience?

If it was sitting mostly, I would say it's the fuel pump since it has to be running for gas to be in the carb, and gravity can do it from the fuel pump leak.

3. Dual reservoir brake master cylinder swap. The car has the factory manual drums and single reservoir manual brake master cylinder. I'm planning on swapping to at least front disk brakes down the road, possibly the exploder 8.8 rear end with disk brakes too. Any suggestions on which master cylinder to use so I only have to buy a new one once? The emergency brake works well, should I not worry about the single reservoir system until I do the brake upgrades?

Do it all at once, you will also need the newer distribution block when you change it.
If you end up being sure about which direction you will go with the rear you can start getting parts a little at a time, and then put them all on at once.
(Instead of using parts that were not designed to run together.)

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Hope this helps.
Some people totally disagree with the use of RTV, but I use what works.
 
I have used "the right stuff" sealer on my last two with zero leaks.

the last one has a hi-volume oil pump too
 

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Thanks a lot guys! I've worked with the right stuff before on a sliding ragtop and it worked great with no leaks. I should get a can of it, need to do the transmission pan.

Hoping to get at least the filter adapter on and sealed up well tonight. Maybe even the kickdown linkage for the trans if I can find the right push nut for it.

Any suggestions on where to get a speedometer cable housing? Mine is weeping transmission fluid. 904 push button auto.
 
When I did my brake swap(11 3/4" disc front, explorer 8.8 disc rear) I used the 72 challenger manual disc master cyl. and an adjustable proportioning valve from a street rod vender off of ebay. If you do the Mcyl. and adj. valve, you can easily re-adjust when you do the disc swap.
 
I did the right angle dry about 7 years ago and it has never leaked.
I am upgrading to dual master and KH discs and I am using an aluminum MC form Dr. Diff. I am really happy with the one I got from hima and put on my '69 Cuda so that is what I am sticking with.
On another note is is power brakes? If so I wonder what MC to use in that instance....
 
There is a seal in the part that goes in the trans that the cable connects to.
Fluid isn't supposed to be in the cable in the first place, though it happens all the time.
 
I will look into that seal when I have the pan down. Thanks for the information! I'd rather fix it the right way the first time.
 
I have had nothing but bad luck with the mopar performance oil adapter seals. When I ordered a felpro gasket set for my engine it came with the oil filter adapter gaskets they were real nice gaskets and thicker than the old ones, the big ring even was a slight interference fit so you didn't have to hold or glue the damn thing in. of course they only sell the large ring gasket for some reason.

http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,car..._cubic_inch_V8_Oil_Filter_Adapter_Gasket.html

Another option would be to just find thick gasket paper and make your own outer gasket and assuming the two inner gaskets are in good enough shape re use them. good luck!
 
65cuda360 said:
When I did my brake swap(11 3/4" disc front, explorer 8.8 disc rear) I used the 72 challenger manual disc master cyl. and an adjustable proportioning valve from a street rod vender off of ebay. If you do the Mcyl. and adj. valve, you can easily re-adjust when you do the disc swap.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good setup to me. I'm hoping to get the explorer rear axle parts and do that swap over the winter. I picked the car up at the end of September and never had a chance to drive it. So for now I just want to have some fun with it. It already has a sure grip so I figure it will be quite a bit of fun.
 
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