Big Block A-Body K Member Selection

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The A-Body Guy

The A-Body Guy

The A-Body Guy
Joined
Dec 10, 2022
Messages
15
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Location
Salisbury, NC
Hi!

New to the group, first post. I appreciate the opinions of those like minded individuals in this group.

I am in a unique position ... I have three MOPAR K-Members to choose from to install a big block in an A-Body. I have a 75' six cylinder with spool mount, a 70' small block and an original '67 big block with poly mounts, brackets and all new suspension components for whichever direction I go.

The '75 & '70 will require Schumacher Creative mounts ... I have tti shorty headers, so exhaust doesn't play a part in the decision. If you could choose between these three ... which would you choose and why? Please don't point me to QA, as I want to create the 383 Barracuda that 'Ma Mopar' would have built with factory parts (personal preference).

Thanks in advance for your help and opinions.

Paul
The A-Body Guy
 
jmho ok. i would use the small block k member because the big block k member could bring in enough money to help with the swap. they make mounts for either /6 or sb to bb. but again jmho.
 
Sell the SB and BB Kmembers and mod the spool mount /6 k member and run ‘73+ steering parts for the best exhaust clearance.
 
I'd go with the factory K 1) you allready have it 2) it was built by the factory to install the big block and 3) you juat can't beat the cool factor.
 
I was leaning that direction. My thought was to sell the original stuff to someone that is going to restore an original. I’ve also heard the sway bar setup is superior.
 
LO23M8B said:
I'd go with the factory K 1) you allready have it 2) it was built by the factory to install the big block and 3) you juat can't beat the cool factor.
Click to expand...
Thanks for responding.

Agreed, although I am a purist at heart and have the complete setup including exhaust manifolds that might be able to put another original back on the road. I was also lucky enough to find a complete, albeit unrestored ‘67 383-S Fastback.

The car I’m building is a former /6 so no worries about originality. My other concern is the un-boxed idler arm on the ‘67 only.

Again, thanks for responding!
 
I had a’68 340 Formula S when I was 20 (I am 58 now) … it was a phenomenal all around package.

After a few years I installed a 440 with Hooker fenderwell headers and ruined the car … 38 years later, I am trying to build the big block car I didn’t build all those years ago.

Add a bunch of aluminum to a 383 so it comes in at or below the weight of the factory 340 … 3:55 gears instead of the stock 3:23 and 1:03 torsion bars.

I really think this package will be “pretty good at everything” with the smells and sounds of a carbureted BB MOPAR V8!
 
The A-Body Guy said:
I was leaning that direction. My thought was to sell the original stuff to someone that is going to restore an original. I’ve also heard the sway bar setup is superior.
Click to expand...

Sway bar is the same '67-72 and will fit all the way to '76. The idler arm is what is unique to the '67. I've never had one of those fail on me, but I have had '68-up fail. I did buy a '67 fastback in 1996 that I thought had a bad idler. It was missing the thick washer on the stud and the nut was hitting the last thread before the taper was seated.
 
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