Big Block Conversion, do it again?

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I debated this for 6 months before deciding to go big block 440 in my dart. I decided I liked the sound of a 440 in light bodied dart. Mine is not complete and the motor is still at the shop so I cant testify much, but I look at it like this, the defining factor of the golden ages of hot rodding and the muscle car era, was taking the biggest, baddest motor you could find and stuffing it into whatever you could make it fit. This led to the Super Stock dodges with the 413s, the older 392 cars, and finally the hemi cars with the elephant motor. So to me anyway, Im gonna try to replicate the concept in my dart.

Nothing wrong with a hot small block 340 or 360 and there's small blocks that can take down a big block, but for sheer feel and the wow factor when you pop that hood and there sits a big 4 4 0, well that's a feeling like no other.
 
Grumpys said:
1) Should I just get the motor mount kit from Schumacher ALONG WITH the headers they sell for the conversion?

their mouths work and are easy. The spool style are better. Their headers can be installed with the engine bolted in place. They are small for a big block but they work fine for a street car

2) I know I have to convert front brakes to disc, but what about suspension? Where did you get your kit from or did you build it?

no you don't. I had 4 wheel drums on mine for over a decade. It stopped. Now I run wildwood 4 wheel discs. Last car I ran 73 discs in front and street rod manufacturing discs in rear.

3) Are heavier torsion bars readily available and suggested?

Yes they are readily available. Suggested...I guess. I ran 340 bars and .870 bars

4) What about rear suspension?

factory leafs or caltracs


5) I'm sure I'm going to have to put in a A Body 8 3/4 housing correct?

Or a b body or a Dana


6) I want to put a 727 behind it, will this clear the body tunnel?

yes


7) WHERE DO I GET A HINGED HOOD WITH LARGE SCOOP OR THE SCOOP I'VE SEEN ON A LOT OF GTS CARS?

Glasstek makes nice hoods

Aar makes junk




Thanks!
Dave
Click to expand...


Hope that helps
 
1) Should I just get the motor mount kit from Schumacher ALONG WITH the headers they sell for the conversion?

the mounts work very nice, if ya get spool type you'll need a 73-up k-frame. or you can just buy the mounts that will work with your 68 k-frame. they also work very well. they also used to sell a magnum mount and was tear proof. not sure if they still have that or not but you can look into that.. their headers are small but fit well. have seen guys in the 11's with them so they aren't horrible thats for sure..
* i just looked it up.. they now have a poly lock mount,http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/PolyLoc.html

2) I know I have to convert front brakes to disc, but what about suspension? Where did you get your kit from or did you build it?
yes disc brakes are highly recommended. you would be silly not to use disc brakes. the stopping difference is light years better. there are many kits out there or you can just gather the parts yourself and do it. you can get the used upper arms and spindles cheap if you are patient and look around, read through these pages.. http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/dbconversion.shtml http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/spindles.shtml

3) Are heavier torsion bars readily available and suggested?
yes you can get a ton of different size torsion bars from many different vendors. all depends on your intended usage as to what size you go for. for a mainly street car that may only see the track once or twice a year i'd go with .920 bars at a minimum. for something you want to handle then ya want something over 1". for mostly drag strip then the smaller the better for that weight transfer.

4) What about rear suspension?
many many choices of leaf springs out there.. the deision will be made on your intended usage.

5) I'm sure I'm going to have to put in a A Body 8 3/4 housing correct?
again there are many ways to go here.. depends on intended usage.

6) I want to put a 727 behind it, will this clear the body tunnel?
easy bolt in deal.

7) WHERE DO I GET A HINGED HOOD WITH LARGE SCOOP OR THE SCOOP I'VE SEEN ON A LOT OF GTS CARS? not sure..
 
Joe, thanks a lot for your input! I'm gathering all this info and printing out. Picking the car up this week, it's about an 8 hour drive with trailer. Will start on the build in a month or two after I finish the '64 Lemans Convert.
Dave
 
I did a couple of 440/A body swaps in 79,and in 82. Enjoyed em both and they were "easy fast". Do it again @ 3.00 bucks a gallon....? Nope, Not untill I figured out away to get 20mpg to drive it daily. Was gonna do one I have now, but 10 mpg don't cut it anymore. Goin LS3.
 
Stroked small block! 450 HP is easy and completely streetable, and you don't have any of the, "There is no room left over after putting that HEAVY big block in there."
 
I just got a great deal on a '68 383 carb to pan [hi-rise single plane weiand on it], buddy says plop er' in and it'll run just fine,so, if compression test is good it's goin' in my '68 GT which I do have the factory 273 [needs rebuild], never did a BB Abody, i'm stoked, o ya, the deal on the mill was,.. FREE.
 
harrisonm said:
Stroked small block! 450 HP is easy and completely streetable, and you don't have any of the, "There is no room left over after putting that HEAVY big block in there."
Click to expand...

When did big blocks become heavy?
 
440 67 Dart here. Something about BB power and torque in a light A body car. All hidden under hood, whats not to like? I would not do it again tho. 383 next time or gen 3 Hemi. Tim
 
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