BIg block oil pan pic.

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Babyblue66

Babyblue66

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I need a pic of the clearance area needed on a big block oil pan for the idler arm on an a-body. I need to put the correct indent in one that does not have it.

thanks.
 
I'd add a little extra clearance in the area of the circle.

187%20pan%20with%20circle.jpg
 
Not sure if you know, but that isn't a real BB A-body oil pan. A real one is #893 and different than the 187. This is the only pic i have on this comp of a 893.
 

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Anyone know where you can get a replacement oil pan with the indent in it? I have a new pan that fits but no indent for the center link.
 
65Val was pretty cool about it but the 699 is worthy of note. Idler and pitman arm clearance on both sides and accel/decel baffles on both ends of the sump. With a sandwiched windage tray it's Mopar state of the art. When I picked up my early 80's built street race 440 65 Valiant it's exactly what I found.
 
Interesting... the 699 pan in 65Val's photo is different than the one in my car. I don't have a lift but let me see if I can get a picture.
 
Yep mine on the '67 GTS is like BB-Dave's. It has a dent in it for the arm. Now I know the number of the pan. It's stored in a car bag so I can't look 'til spring.
 
I did the best I could taking some pics under the car on jackstands. My pan is clearly stamped 699 but has draglink clearance indentations on both sides that look very factory, not welded or hammered as you'd expect if they weren't. Go figure.

A couple of comments on other things in the photo. The draglink has a deeper drop than even a V8 vs S6 factory piece. I don't know what it came from but it was obviously chopped and welded up with a sleeve.

If you're wondering why everything is just shot black and filthy... I'm leaving it authentic to the build. The hard core street scene meant loosening the valve covers after an engine build to get oil all over everything and than driving up and down a dirt road. Couldn't be more anti-billet, no competition waxing in this car's future.

When I got it home it had sat a number of years and being a Mexican border car I doubt it ever had anti-freeze in it. All the freeze plugs were rotted out so I pulled the motor to replace them. The leaking water has really surface rusted all the steering linkage. Still thinking about that...
 

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I'll tell you one thing...up here they'd fail that welded centre link in an instant, at a gov't inspection. Those are definite No-No's here.
 
@65Val, yeah I pondered that a bit. A sharp center punch nearly bounces on the sleeve, it's no malleable piece of gas pipe and the welds are very nice. The link isn't subject to any shear forces, i.e. reasonable expectation of bending, twisting or impact. All it's functional loading is longitudinal and it's very unstressed in that dimension. I decided I'm not worried about it and thankful it's not subject to arbitrary bureaucracy.

On the other hand those fabricated K-member setups with coilovers putting all suspension loading into flimsy chassis structures where they were never intended scare me! And how about cast drop spindles? Heim joints in street cars?

I'm actually not opposed to some degree of govt inspection. Colorado has nothing but emissions for Denver area residents so there are some scary heaps out there.
 
As 70Duster440 mentioned, I have interference at that same spot on my 699 pan. In searching big block pans, I've noticed that some aftermarket ones appear to have an angle that may be enough to avoid the steering likg problems. what do you guys think?
 

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Has anyone tried the Milodon #30760 pan. ?????
Does it clear the arms ?
Its their stock replacement center sump pan that looks alot like the Autonets pan.
 
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