big block rocker arms

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Duster Drag Car

Duster Drag Car

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anyone runnig a healthy 440 600+ hp with victor or procomp heads with the 1.6 offset rocker arms my engine was just broke in at the machine shop looks and sounds mean as hell did the break in with inner springs out when they went to install the inner springs they noticed that the adjusting screws were alrady mushrooming so we cant have that so we ordered some new adjusting screws from crane cams they should be harder and hopfully an easy fix my question is has anyone else run into this and if so what were the results and yes there procomp rocker arms dumped a ton of money into this motor and the machine work on the heads i know youll say harland sharp for another $1300 wonding if you guys have any actual experience with the procomp or victor heads with 1.6 offset rocker arm set ups and what are you running for rocker arms. Thanks Roger
 
Well, I run Harland Sharp, T&D or Jesel
 
Your gonna hear this over and over. Pay for the good rockers. They are such a critical part,and take a ton of abuse,so time to pony up. I'm as broke as can be,but all it means is a couple years of saving so I can get the good stuff.
 
Duster Drag Car said:
i know youll say harland sharp for another $1300
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If you knew the answer, why'd you ask the question? So you dumped a pile of money in the engine and stopped when you got to the rockers. Here's your sign.
 
I'm running 451 with victor heads with t&d rockers seems to be working good so far i think they're around a grand
 
you can either buy good rockers now...or later after the cheap ones fail
 
well I was talking with Dan the man Dvorak about this same thing only with 1.5s and he told me that he has run them with no trouble AFTER he changed the adjusters.and advised me to change mine and they would be fine.BUT I'm only running 160 closed psi.and 320 open.if this helps.I know allot of guys are running them around here....................Artie
 
godfatherofchry said:
well I was talking with Dan the man Dvorak about this same thing only with 1.5s and he told me that he has run them with no trouble AFTER he changed the adjusters.and advised me to change mine and they would be fine.BUT I'm only running 160 closed psi.and 320 open.if this helps.I know allot of guys are running them around here....................Artie
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thanks thats exactly what im going to do for now so i can make it to the track this year maybe change them this winter
 
StrokerScamp said:
If you knew the answer, why'd you ask the question? So you dumped a pile of money in the engine and stopped when you got to the rockers. Here's your sign.
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$1300.00 is crazy money for rocker arms think ill go back to building sbc a good set of comp cam roller rockers for a fouth of that i love my mopar but the shaft rocker arm is a stupid design:wack:
 
Lol,it's not the design that costs money,it's the fact its for a mopar that costs extra money. The big $$ guys got into mopars,and because thier stupid and willing to pay extra $$,now we all have to pay more.

Mopars never used to be so pricey until barret jackson came along and ruined it for us poor guys.
 
Duster Drag Car said:
$1300.00 is crazy money for rocker arms think ill go back to building sbc a good set of comp cam roller rockers for a fouth of that i love my mopar but the shaft rocker arm is a stupid design:wack:
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Actually, the shaft rocker train is one of the best, most reliable designs that's ever been made. The stud mount is the weaker, inferior design by far. That's why it's cheaper. I'll put it this way. It will be cheaper to spend 1K on the right rockers for your application than having to rebuild an entire engine due to a cheap rocker failure. Right?
 
Just a little FYI-- once you get to around the 750 800HP mark on any brand engine the price to make big HP is about the same. Aftermaket block, rotating assembly, heads, valve gear, and finish out parts run prety even. But under that HP range i will agree the cost is more to make the same power.
 
make sure your machine shop uses moly paste or peanut butter in the cups on pushrods and not oil. this area is as bad as the lifter to cam mating surface, a very high wear area and needs special lube on break in.
 
I have used a lot of Hughes rockers with the Victor heads, all solid roller setups with upto #700 open, never had any issues. But then again, I do have a better way to oil the top end.

Cheap parts are going to give you issues, I stress this all the time. I get a lot of flack about it too, but like I have said before, its your money. Buy cheap valve covers ans oil pan, not cheap rods and valvetrain parts.
 
Ok my worthless 2cents lol I was told by Smith Bros pushrods to check the wear pattern on the cup and ball ends and there should be a ring contact pattern if so your good they told me the ball and cup should not sit against each other and if thats the case then the ball and cup are not sized properly to match and will burn the ends, to better explain call Smith Bros and have your pushrods and rockers on hand they will ask about the wear pattern.
 
bOb shingler said:
make sure your machine shop uses moly paste or peanut butter in the cups on pushrods and not oil. this area is as bad as the lifter to cam mating surface, a very high wear area and needs special lube on break in.
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used joe gibbs break in oil with high zinc content
 
CHEATHAM said:
Ok my worthless 2cents lol I was told by Smith Bros pushrods to check the wear pattern on the cup and ball ends and there should be a ring contact pattern if so your good they told me the ball and cup should not sit against each other and if thats the case then the ball and cup are not sized properly to match and will burn the ends, to better explain call Smith Bros and have your pushrods and rockers on hand they will ask about the wear pattern.
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i had manton make my push rods
 
And add some zinc to your oil like Bob said it is a high load friction area, i woldnt change the rockers if you havnt broke any may only need to match the ends and be sure theres good oil flow to them
 
CHEATHAM said:
And add some zinc to your oil like Bob said it is a high load friction area, i woldnt change the rockers if you havnt broke any may only need to match the ends and be sure theres good oil flow to them
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used joe gibbs break in oil with high zinc content engine builder said it was getting plenty of oil he thought the adjuster screw metal was to soft
 
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