Big Inch Smallblock

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I'm jealous of you guys... can't wait to start on mine but at least 6 months away.. gotta get this stupid car on the road then upgrade as i go. The cold has really brought my work to a standstill.. soon though :)
 
A body said:
Well thank god my 2 to 2 1/8 pipes probably keep me out of the 8’s!
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Haven’t you read it on the internet, all the experts are running 8’s with 1 5/8” headers! Get with the program man! LOL
 
justinp61 said:
Haven’t you read it on the internet, all the experts are running 8’s with 1 5/8” headers! Get with the program man! LOL
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Well if mid 10's are attainable with the factory exhaust manifolds..
 
Icetech said:
Not to hijack (which means i'm gonna hijack) but do any reputable companies make 408 or 426 short blocks? I talked to blueprint.. but they only make longblocks due to a shortage of parts which makes no sense at all :)
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Yes....send me a PM
 
Icetech said:
Not to hijack (which means i'm gonna hijack) but do any reputable companies make 408 or 426 short blocks? I talked to blueprint.. but they only make longblocks due to a shortage of parts which makes no sense at all :)
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Sure it makes sense, good sense! If you have a limited supply of good blocks, and you make the best profit by selling them as long blocks, with the profit probably tied to the heads, any short block you sold would reduce the profit and supply.
 
33IMP said:
Sure it makes sense, good sense! If you have a limited supply of good blocks, and you make the best profit by selling them as long blocks, with the profit probably tied to the heads, any short block you sold would reduce the profit and supply.
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Yup.. one of the guys from BP had posted and explained it.. plus warranty issues.. way more warranty issues when someone else builds half the motor.
 
Mines like a few on here Ritter block 9.6 deck, 4.125" bore, 4" stroke and 6.125"rods from bloomers, 428cid, but room to grow if needed but mines also has twins on it. Wish I went with better heads but running mild ported edelbrock magnum heads and ported super Victor intake.
 
Matts440 said:
Mines like a few on here Ritter block 9.6 deck, 4.125" bore, 4" stroke and 6.125"rods from bloomers, 428cid, but room to grow if needed but mines also has twins on it. Wish I went with better heads but running mild ported edelbrock magnum heads and ported super Victor intake.
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I don’t know why I’m stuck on wanting the Ritter aluminum block. I don’t plan to make over anywhere near the 1,400 horse he says the block is good for. A set of W-9s would be pretty neat.
 
Ritter blocks are aluminum? Are you sure?
 
Matts440 said:
Mines like a few on here Ritter block 9.6 deck, 4.125" bore, 4" stroke and 6.125"rods from bloomers, 428cid, but room to grow if needed but mines also has twins on it. Wish I went with better heads but running mild ported edelbrock magnum heads and ported super Victor intake.
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Boost will make up for any disadvantage you have from running the edlebrock magnums.
 
mopardude318 said:
I don’t know why I’m stuck on wanting the Ritter aluminum block. I don’t plan to make over anywhere near the 1,400 horse he says the block is good for. A set of W-9s would be pretty neat.
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If that's the case I'll see what mine finally puts down with race gss when I can, my fuel set up is good for 1600, hoping to make that with the twin 76mm turbos.
 
Matts440 said:
If that's the case I'll see what mine finally puts down with race gss when I can, my fuel set up is good for 1600, hoping to make that with the twin 76mm turbos.
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You’ve got the hardware to get there.
 
My buddy built a 500" small block using an R block. The block was even lightened. 4.500 stroke 4.210 bore with Indy 360-1's. I know they had to do a lot of clearancing to fit it in the R block. Also Bryant had concerns about the rod pin being outside of the main bearing diameter(!).
 
A body said:
I’d have to sift through folders of paper work to find our W5 data. Some of you probably remember the “group buy” CNC port deal that Ryan J had on moparts ions ago. We sent one of our sets in on that deal. I can’t remember the “advertised” numbers on them, for some reason 330ish comes to mind, but my dads engine builder just had to flow a port and he wasn’t impressed. At that point I was just like “put it together and see what it does”. It was a 340 block based 4” birdshit crank and rods (Eagle) deal. I think the best time it ran when my dad was wheeling the Duster was 9.89. he only did that once as the car wasn’t legal to run 9’s. All he did was to raise the shift point from 6k to 7200. I’m sure it had more in it, but he just shifted it low and ran low 10’s.
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I love my W5's but they were hand ported by Brian at IMM engines. They don't have any of the issues that others have talked about, but they also didn't get run through a CNC program. I am about to do a set of W8's the same way. My 3350 pound Dart ran 10.08 at 137 with the C02 turned off at Indy (my mistake) and it made 1 psi of boost.
 
B3422w5 said:
Never seen a W5 head go remotely close to 355. For one thing, they flat aren’t big enough.
I can say this for sure, even a good W5 head is more than used up with a serious effort 4 inch crank deal. You need go no longer stroke on anything like that. Those heads were designed for stock stroke 340-360 mills. Not 400+ inch stuff.
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I hadn't either until today. Brett Miller has been working on some preliminary W5 work with intentions of having a new casting done. Last week he was looking for Virgin W5 head castings. By Wednesday already had some and 2 day's later had a finished port going [email protected] which is already more than I've seen and better than Indy CNC -1/-2. I'm sure with a better casting without the deep spring pockets plus other fixed areas this will be a wicked head to make some steam. Hope it works out.

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fasttcars said:
I hadn't either until today. Brett Miller has been working on some preliminary W5 work with intentions of having a new casting done. Last week he was looking for Virgin W5 head castings. By Wednesday already had some and 2 day's later had a finished port going [email protected] which is already more than I've seen and better than Indy CNC -1/-2. I'm sure with a better casting without the deep spring pockets plus other fixed areas this will be a wicked head to make some steam. Hope it works out.

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fasttcars said:
I hadn't either until today. Brett Miller has been working on some preliminary W5 work with intentions of having a new casting done. Last week he was looking for Virgin W5 head castings. By Wednesday already had some and 2 day's later had a finished port going [email protected] which is already more than I've seen and better than Indy CNC -1/-2. I'm sure with a better casting without the deep spring pockets plus other fixed areas this will be a wicked head to make some steam. Hope it works out.

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Saw. That on Facebook. I was referring to stuff that folks have run at the track over the years.
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Rocket said:
Ritter makes both aluminum and iron blocks
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I have three SBM 4.25 2" cranks on the shelf, 1 new 360 main, 1 new 340 and 1 used in good condition. I needing to build a very reliable (med rpm) hyd roller big inch road race track day motor. I want an Alum 360, Ritter is favoring/suggesting an Alum 340 for greater lower end block strength. Ritter alum block reported shortcomings have me stymied. What ever motor it is will get W8 Chapmans I have, the others will get my ported Indy 360's. Suggestions welcomed
 
J-c-c said:
I have three SBM 4.25 2" cranks on the shelf, 1 new 360 main, 1 new 340 and 1 used in good condition. I needing to build a very reliable (med rpm) hyd roller big inch road race track day motor. I want an Alum 360, Ritter is favoring/suggesting an Alum 340 for greater lower end block strength. Ritter alum block reported shortcomings have me stymied. What ever motor it is will get W8 Chapmans I have, the others will get my ported Indy 360's. Suggestions welcomed
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It does not matter what block you choose, THEY all need finish machining.
 
J-c-c said:
So even the mains are unmachined?
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I have Ritters cast iron block, I had everything checked just to make sure, cam, crank, deck and final bore just like any block then depending on heads you'll have to drill the cooling passages into the deck, hopefully its been done now the the rear oil feed for the cam needs drilled, again might be done now since he switched shops that does the machining, holes will need to be drilled into the cam in closed tunnel, I did this and still needed a vacuum pump, I drilled 1/2" holes into each section. Its a list but well worth it. Mines a 428 cid.
 
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