Billet servos, frictions, and bands

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gremlin

268Darts
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I accidentally posted this in the for sale area. too much jumping around this site on my part.

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I searched that and got nothing on billet servos so I'm asking.


I was reading the 4 plant thread and saw www.wittrans.com that Fishy68 posted. That is an excellent website. You can click the assembly and print it out for reference when assembling the trans. Thanks for that one. That would make a great wall hanger.


I was reading Carl Munroe's book and it looks like the rear servo, spring and cover should be replaced with the billet piece, heavy spring, and the thicker cover. Anyone care to comment on the low and/or intermediate servos and accumilator? Heavey duty band struts? And the Power wedge band anchor like the one on PACTs website.
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/727transmission.htm

I'm also between the red eagles and the green frictions. I read on a Chebie site that the green frictions absorb fluid faster than the red which equals faster cooling. ANy comments from the pros? I was also deciding between bands when I read the kevlar bands are fairly hard on drums, so I'm deciding between carbon fiber, red, or green, flex or solid bands. I can't afford the steel drum now, but I will upgrade when I change motors. I've never known anyone to replace the rear factory band, so I may leave it alone. Comments? Should I go for the 15 springs in the direct drum? I want to put this trans together for the street and an occasional pass down the track. I do love beating on a car, so I won't be pussyfooting this thing. Hey it's a Mopar and they are ment to be beaten on.
I have a manuel VB and a 3500 stall converter I will use. For now it will behind a 383 stock bottom end with a .525 lift cam and 915 heads. I have a 72 400 block (yes, the 230) that will be getting a 440 crank, eagle rods, forged pistons, and a 585 hydraulic roller cam. I bought a set of ProComp heads that I am replacing everything in..they were cheap. Oh, do I need a cam button to run that cam?



Anyone tried one of these Billet Rear Servo Kits?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-727-51...c1ad3d&vxp=mtr

or would you go with the super servo?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-TRANSM...0893d1&vxp=mtr
 
You definitely want to upgrade the rear (the low/reverse) servo but if your running a manual VB you don't need to worry about the accumulator because it bypasses the accumulator. There is no intermediate servo (see my edit below) in a torqueflite, just front and rear. I always use stock old style front servo's. Haven't had any issues at all with them but if your original servo is worn a replacement is in order. I also upgrade the front servo band strut. Haven't seen a reason to upgrade the anchor but maybe someone else knows something I don't. Can't get the links to come up so I'm not sure exactly what they are but I usually buy my billet rear servo's from Mr. Randy on Moparts. Quite a while back Rick Allison at A&A recommended the blue friction plates so that's what I've been using, but I haven't read much on the differences so I can't comment on what might be better. I just know the blue plates last real good for me. Not sure if their the same compound as the green ones you refer too. Sorry, not much help there. As for band type, I've read about the Kevlar bands being hard on drums also, plus they tend to glaze over quicker in street use. I've used red lined bands with great success. I've read some guys like to use flex bands to take up any irregularities in the drum. Personally I feel if the drum is out of round it shouldn't be used so I prefer rigid bands. Plus they release quicker so there's less chance for 2-3 shift overlap.

Look up your manual VB and see how many front clutch spring it calls for. They vary and I use what the VB says to use.

Build it with good parts and blue printed specs and you won't have any issues. IMO something built to that order has no trouble standing up against 700+ hp. Even stock friction plates and bands built right are good to 550+ hp.

Don't forget a good bolt in Sprague.

Is that a roller cam your referring to? Does a big block have a cam thrust plate like a small block? If it's a roller cam you either need a thrust plate or button.

EDT: I see the PATC site refers to the front servo as the intermediate servo. It's the front band servo which is the intermediate gear so I guess it's a matter of terminology.
 
BB's just have a cover and it is a roller cam. I thought I read somewhere that I needed a button. Funny you mention Mr Randy because that is the name of the guy listing the servo. Stainless steel spring, billet aluminum piston and extra thick stainless steel retainer sound familuar? The anchor sounded good on PATCs site, but it also sounds like overkill. I called the front servo the intermedia because they did. I figured they sell it, so they should know what to call it.


I didn't see this on Mr Randy's other auctions, but it indicates he sells one.
Check my other auctions for the billet front servo kit and billet accumulator pistons.



I signed out so maybe this link will work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-727-5...Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c0c1ad3d&vxp=mtr



This is the super servo
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-TRANS...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35bd0893d1&vxp=mtr
 
Randy's a good friend of mine. His servos are very good. I replace the rear and intermiediate when "it matters". And I use his.
On the clutches - once they are installed and the unit is operating - there is no "time" to absorb fluid. They're already "at capacity". What you might want to do is give the fluid extra holes through which it can escape and shed more heat - but the material doesn't give or take away from the oils ability to cool. It only can withstand more heat or less.
 
What you might want to do is give the fluid extra holes through which it can escape

Could you explain that? I have seen the front band have extra holes drilled in it to let the fluid out so the band grabs better. I'm not sure what size those hole were.

Does Randy have a website?


This is a TCI VB. I'm searching the web and so far I come up with nothing. Anyone else with a TCI know?
 
gremlin said:
BB's just have a cover and it is a roller cam. I thought I read somewhere that I needed a button. Funny you mention Mr Randy because that is the name of the guy listing the servo. Stainless steel spring, billet aluminum piston and extra thick stainless steel retainer sound familuar? The anchor sounded good on PATCs site, but it also sounds like overkill. I called the front servo the intermedia because they did. I figured they sell it, so they should know what to call it.


I didn't see this on Mr Randy's other auctions, but it indicates he sells one.
Check my other auctions for the billet front servo kit and billet accumulator pistons.



I signed out so maybe this link will work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-727-5...Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c0c1ad3d&vxp=mtr



This is the super servo
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-TRANS...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35bd0893d1&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...

That's the same Randy I buy mine from. Like Moper said he's a good guy and sells a top notch product. I thought they were cheaper than that but I haven't bought one for over a year now so maybe the price has gone up. He always has them listed on Moparts so you might want to check there. A lot of the time things on E-bay are higher due to their outrageous fees. I have seen some band anchors with some wear but never a broken one. Not saying it can't happen, just haven't seen one broke in 30 yrs. of doing torqueflites.

I haven't had a big block car for over 25 yrs. and the memory is too fuzzy to remember but it sounds like you need a thrust button. Moper knows big blocks better than me so maybe he can confirm that.
 
I think they all used to be $75... but yeah - last time I bought them was 2 years ago. He's an intensly private guy so if you don't know him or someone that does chances are you won't talk to him even tho he's at most NE events. You may remember a primered '66 Coronet that runs in the 12s and is usually a finalist in the street brackets... He spent a lot of time rigging up test transmissions to develop this stuff and see what happens in there. He also builds some great 727s. He's definately "the guy" for a torqueflite around my area for those in the know.
 
75 sounds right. I sent 83 and that covers shipping.

He sounds like a friend that used to be in Houston. He was from Georgia, moved here in the 70s, moved to Austin in the 90s and a few years back someone haggled over the price of a crankshft and he sold everything and disappeared. If his last name had started with a P, it might be him. He's never had a SS number, so it still could be for all I know. It used to be fairly easy to change last names in different states. Several friends have asked if I knew where he went, and I have no idea. Nobodies looking for him other than we just wonder how he's doing. Tall, skinny, and a really good mechanic. Where's Randy P?
 
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