Blocked oil passage/high oil pressure any advice

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Well it turns out I am only Partially Fck'd up on this........ Had to go to my parts shelf to find out..... From what I have used the 1068 is the short dogg.....

There is a shorter filter.. I have never used it. Used the the 1515 on my last oil change. No 90* adapter and TTI Headers. Using the Long Dogg.............

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70aarcuda said:
Why cross reference went you can just use the Fram filter.
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Because Fram oil filters SUCK! :finga:

Have you read some of the comments on them. The guts blow out and they f*ck up your engine... :finga:

That's why.... :banghead:
 
360duster1973 said:
I bought my 73 duster from a knuckle head about 3 years ago hadn't noticed the oil pressure was extremely high until I installed a oil pressure gauge. Cold start it was reading about 70 psi and 65 psi at a warm idle which I knew was a red flag. I then went and replaced the easy things first the oil pump, lighter weight oil, a new oil pressure gauge, and checking the pan for clumps or debris. Lifters and crank are getting oil. After giving up for the winter I started with going back to the forums and went and bought some Marvel Mystery Oil and figured I'd give it a shot. I drained about a quart from the new oil and added the MMO. After about 2 hrs the psi dropped down to 48-50 psi.

What else can I do? Is there a stronger product I can use to help break up the blockage?
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Which oil pump are you running? Did you take the new one apart to make sure the bypass moves freely before you installed it? I normally run std volume pump with the HP spring kit in them. That gives 20-25psi hot idle, 70psi hot at 3500 with the clearances I usually run with 10-30 oil. You have to remember indicated pressure is an indication of resistance to flow - not flow itself. The clearances and the pump have to work together. The oil viscosity and filter will affect those two but are not the main forces behind operating pressures.
IMO you should be pulling the bearing caps and getting some clearances even if it's only plastigage and in the car. Driving with a ton of oil pressure only wastes power, fuel, and creates heat. In most cases it won't damage anything but to me it's too high, indicating a potential problem. Thinner oil may help the reading, but it probably won't do much positive for the bearings. A good oil filter might change the readings just like replacing 1qt of oil with MMO. But again it's too high which to me says something's not right and given you have no idea who did what on it, I'd want to "know".
 
mderoy340 said:
High oil pressure and thick oil wastes fuel and robs HP. Since bearing clearance is unknown run the engine to operating temp and drive it. 10 psi for every 1K RPM. 20 psi at idle is plenty of oil pressure. Run the thinnest oil you can to get in the range.
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Ever do ANY dyno testing? Because oil presse VS. HP gains are very very little. For example, if you are carrying 70 lbs at 7K and you drop it to 50 pounds, as a rule of thumb, you will gain between 5-7 HP.

If you are running a 50 grade oil (there is no such thing as a "weight" of oil) and you have the clearances correct and switch to a GOOD 30 grade oil you will usually see 20 to as many as 30 HP WITHOUT less pressure.

WAY too much time is wasted piddling over oil pressure. Know this for sure. I have made more money fixing engines with 20 pounds of oil pressure than any one single MoPar issue EVER. Fixing, replacing and selling new shafts and rockers to fools who think anything over 20 pounds of idle oil pressure is costing them HP, wasting the worlds natural resources (quit washing you cars because we have a water issue way more than an oil issue) and genearaaly wreaks havoc on the world political scene.


In fact, I learned this many years ago on a dyno test with a customer who was hard up for every single HP he could find. He didn't like 50 psi idle pressure. So we dropped the pan (already had the correct oil in it) and replaced the pressure spring. It went to 25-28 psi at idle and lost about 5 psi at WOT. It lost (average...IIRC) HP. While trying to figure out where we went wrong, the engine started to lose more and more HP.

Anyone want to guess what was happening?
 
Sounds like a bearing wasn't happy any more. Never good when power slips away every pull. J.Rob
 
There's power there. It's not a ton, less than having really good oil control, not enough to destabilize the Euro. But it's there.
Interestingly on my friend's record setting Stock Eliminator engines (Ford) he ran 130psi peak pressure in order to keep his hydraulic lifters acting solid. It did cost him a little power on the dyno. He never told me how much but it was less than he gained with a really good scraper and pan combo so between the two changes he had a net gain in power. He also found the differences in oil filter construction fairly quickly...
 
RAMM said:
Sounds like a bearing wasn't happy any more. Never good when power slips away every pull. J.Rob
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Nope. 20 pounds at idle will keep the bearings off the crank....Someone else already posted what most of us know who have to use anything with hydro lifters...you can't get too much oil pressure.


BUT.......guys are still killing parts with stupid low idle oil pressure. They never learn.

Any other guesses?????
 
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