Blow proof bells

[highwaystar]

I am sure this topic has been covered a 100 x on this Forum, but I am new here. What is the best blow proof out there for a s.b. that you will have minimum problems? Is Lakewwod the only one availible? I had one yours ago that gave me chest pains trying to get everything lined up. The Clutch fork looked almost to be a BB fork and the s.b one surely did not work. I lost patience, pulled it out and sold it.

Looking to go at it again, mostly because I need for safety. if anyone has a setup for sale I would also be interested. If it is a good working piece.

Thanks for all comments
T.J.

 

[Mad Dart]

I have a quicktime. They make several for mopars with different trans combo's

http://www.quicktimeinc.com/products.html#mopar

 

[highwaystar]

I have a quicktime. They make several for mopars with different trans combo's

http://www.quicktimeinc.com/products.html#mopar

These look like good quality, I think I'll be going this direction. looks to be around $450.-$500. Anything you had to shim? any problems or extras you had to purchase. I will see if anyone post anything better, but I am liking these.


Thanks,

 

[mopardude318]

Quicktime Bells are the best! I like mine. Also, buy the starter pocket cover, it doesn't come with the bellhousing.

 

[pettybludart]

I bought a lakwewood 2 years ago,had I known about quicktime(DuH!)I would,ve went that route.They,re smaller and look easier to work with.I had a heck of a time getting my fork on the throw-out bearing with my lakewood.(very small opening)it,s all good though.Good Luck!

 

[Mad Dart]

These look like good quality, I think I'll be going this direction. looks to be around $450.-$500. Anything you had to shim? any problems or extras you had to purchase. I will see if anyone post anything better, but I am liking these.


Thanks,

Make sure you CALL Ross directly and order it. I got mine and it was missing the hardware for the bottom of the shield around 10 nuts bolts and washers. I called and they shipped them right away. Then after install I found out that they sent me the wrong bracket for the Z BAR pivot. I called Ross and he shipped it same day. I should have the parts tomorrow so I can finally ROAD TEST the new engine etc.

Ross's number is 641-660-2807

 

[Mad Dart]

Quicktime Bells are the best! I like mine. Also, buy the starter pocket cover, it doesn't come with the bellhousing.

I dont run the starter cover or the Boot for the shift fork. Trying to keep the clutch cooler. I will never drive the car in the rain so no need for it. JMO

 

[Rob R]

I haven't had any experience with the quick time stuff but that open hole where the starter nose fits would keep me away from using them.They do have a smaller can area (area around the clutch) so that will keep the velocity of the escaping parts down but I can see a couple of pressure plate bolts escaping through the fork and starter opening...That means 1" holes in your fender...
I've personally had 2 clutch explosions and have seen 4 others.(all Lakewood) and every one drilled a hole in the inner fender and 3 drilled holes through both inner and driver side fender not to mention the header damage.And that's through that little clutch fork hole.
The old style Lakewood cans would pop most if not all the 3/8's bolts that hold the bottom of the can together that's why they went to the bigger 3/4 bolts.
A pressure plate explosion is a very nasty..ugly thing to have happen and a flywheel is the worst...it opens that can RIGHT UP breaks the belhousing to block bolts and peels that block saver back like paper after popping all the bolts that surround the bell housing.It does it's job and SLOWS the big pieces down so the headers and firewall and inner fenders can stop what escapes from the can.
My rule of thumb No two piece belhousings..No drilling on a pressure plate..No lightening flywheels and as few holes in the can as possible

 

[mshred]

I'd go with a quicktime over the lakewood...just make sure you get the right parts in your kit...Ross is a super nice guy who has helped me out many times and shipped me parts for free to make things right, so just let him know if you are missing something and he will gladly help out...Not sure if you already, but if i was you id also move up to a billet steel flywheel (440source sells a nice peice for 99 bucks already balanced too!) as cheap insurance....The stock flywheels have a tendency to come apart easier at higher rpms (nodular iron i believe) over the billet steel ones, so if you like your feet its something i would look into as well depending on how high you rev er up

 

[mshred]

I dont run the starter cover or the Boot for the shift fork. Trying to keep the clutch cooler. I will never drive the car in the rain so no need for it. JMO

is that what that boot is for on the shift fork? i always thought it was just for dust, never thought it would be for rain too (doh!)...i do plan on driving mine in the rain if i get caught in it and im not running the boot...is my pressure plate/disc/flywheel going to rust out if i do?

 

[Mad Dart]

is that what that boot is for on the shift fork? i always thought it was just for dust, never thought it would be for rain too (doh!)...i do plan on driving mine in the rain if i get caught in it and im not running the boot...is my pressure plate/disc/flywheel going to rust out if i do?

I never thought about that?

I haven't had any experience with the quick time stuff but that open hole where the starter nose fits would keep me away from using them.They do have a smaller can area (area around the clutch) so that will keep the velocity of the escaping parts down but I can see a couple of pressure plate bolts escaping through the fork and starter opening...That means 1" holes in your fender...
I've personally had 2 clutch explosions and have seen 4 others.(all Lakewood) and every one drilled a hole in the inner fender and 3 drilled holes through both inner and driver side fender not to mention the header damage.And that's through that little clutch fork hole.
The old style Lakewood cans would pop most if not all the 3/8's bolts that hold the bottom of the can together that's why they went to the bigger 3/4 bolts.
A pressure plate explosion is a very nasty..ugly thing to have happen and a flywheel is the worst...it opens that can RIGHT UP breaks the belhousing to block bolts and peels that block saver back like paper after popping all the bolts that surround the bell housing.It does it's job and SLOWS the big pieces down so the headers and firewall and inner fenders can stop what escapes from the can.
My rule of thumb No two piece belhousings..No drilling on a pressure plate..No lightening flywheels and as few holes in the can as possible ( QUOTE)

Maybe the Starter Cover would be a good Idea........

 

[highwaystar]

I'd go with a quicktime over the lakewood...just make sure you get the right parts in your kit...Ross is a super nice guy who has helped me out many times and shipped me parts for free to make things right, so just let him know if you are missing something and he will gladly help out...Not sure if you already, but if i was you id also move up to a billet steel flywheel (440source sells a nice peice for 99 bucks already balanced too!) as cheap insurance....The stock flywheels have a tendency to come apart easier at higher rpms (nodular iron i believe) over the billet steel ones, so if you like your feet its something i would look into as well depending on how high you rev er up

Hey thanks guys, Mshred this Flywheel you sre referring to is this a s.b. item they carry or is it for b.b. If it is a s.b do you have a part# or contact # I can get.

Thanks again

 

[mshred]

Hey thanks guys, Mshred this Flywheel you sre referring to is this a s.b. item they carry or is it for b.b. If it is a s.b do you have a part# or contact # I can get.

Thanks again

here is a link to it
http://www.440source.com/flywheels.htm
they work with smallblocks as long as your motor is zero (internal) balanced...for 99 bucks and being billet steel, it sure as heck beats getting a stock one resurfaced, and the extra security for your feet is worth it...oh and they are balanced when you get them...i double checked mine to be sure and sure enough it was

good luck!

 

[Wylde1]

here is a link to it
http://www.440source.com/flywheels.htm
they work with smallblocks as long as your motor is zero (internal) balanced...for 99 bucks and being billet steel, it sure as heck beats getting a stock one resurfaced, and the extra security for your feet is worth it...oh and they are balanced when you get them...i double checked mine to be sure and sure enough it was

good luck!

Sweet. Thanks for sharing.

Btw, I've got a Lakewood bell on my Demon. A real pita to remove with solid motor mounts. Yes I was lazy and didn't remove a mount. :-D


Wylde1.

 

[Mad Dart]

here is a link to it
http://www.440source.com/flywheels.htm
they work with smallblocks as long as your motor is zero (internal) balanced...for 99 bucks and being billet steel, it sure as heck beats getting a stock one resurfaced, and the extra security for your feet is worth it...oh and they are balanced when you get them...i double checked mine to be sure and sure enough it was

good luck!

That is a SMOKIN deal on that flywheel. I bought a Centerforce Aluminum with Billet Center and I can still feel how bad I got raped!! $600.00 something I thought I had to have at the time! If I had to do it again this is the route I would go for sure...........Thanks for the information MSHRED!!

 

[mshred]

That is a SMOKIN deal on that flywheel. I bought a Centerforce Aluminum with Billet Center and I can still feel how bad I got raped!! $600.00 something I thought I had to have at the time! If I had to do it again this is the route I would go for sure...........Thanks for the information MSHRED!!

no problem! sorry it was a little late for you but atleast everyone knows about it now...its a top notch peice too...like i said it was all balanced and visibly in good shape (no missing teeth or anything either)

 

[highwaystar]

no problem! sorry it was a little late for you but atleast everyone knows about it now...its a top notch peice too...like i said it was all balanced and visibly in good shape (no missing teeth or anything either)

just ordered one around $37.00 shipping to me in P.A.

Thanks Mshred for the info.

T.J.

 

[Rob R]

I'd take that 12 lb $600 center force flywheel over that 35 plus lb 440'sRus piece all day long...I had a customers son bring a whole crap load of that 440'sRus stuff to the shop..half of it we didn't use.That flywheel we use to hold the back door open on windy days..There's NOTHING wrong with the factory forged wheel plus it's 10 lb's lighter than that flywheel the young kid got from 440'sRus.
The only flywheel that I've ever seen that was heavier was the old Direct Connection Hemi steel wheel at 130 tooth/45 lbs.
Light=early tq curve

 

[mshred]

I'd take that 12 lb $600 center force flywheel over that 35 plus lb 440'sRus piece all day long...I had a customers son bring a whole crap load of that 440'sRus stuff to the shop..half of it we didn't use.That flywheel we use to hold the back door open on windy days..There's NOTHING wrong with the factory forged wheel plus it's 10 lb's lighter than that flywheel the young kid got from 440'sRus.
The only flywheel that I've ever seen that was heavier was the old Direct Connection Hemi steel wheel at 130 tooth/45 lbs.
Light=early tq curve

too light of a flywheel and getting the car moving becomes a pain, anybody knows that
the only reason i recommend and bought that flywheel is because it is billet steel...talk to any stick shift racer and they will tell you billet steel holds up to higher rpms than the factory peice any day of the week...and if you need to get your flywheel resurfaced, mine as well spend the few extra bucks and get a peice thats brand new and will save your feet...im pretty sure that 99 bucks plus shipping beats 600 bucks to most for a new flywheel....mine as well spend the money on an aluminum when you get to that territory, and in my opinion there is no place for aluminum flywheel in a street car...also, if the direct connection flywheel was okay, what makes this one so bad?

its easy to see you dont like 440source...now why dont you tell us what was wrong with that flywheel that warrants it as a doorstop?

 

[highwaystar]

I'd take that 12 lb $600 center force flywheel over that 35 plus lb 440'sRus piece all day long...I had a customers son bring a whole crap load of that 440'sRus stuff to the shop..half of it we didn't use.That flywheel we use to hold the back door open on windy days..There's NOTHING wrong with the factory forged wheel plus it's 10 lb's lighter than that flywheel the young kid got from 440'sRus.
The only flywheel that I've ever seen that was heavier was the old Direct Connection Hemi steel wheel at 130 tooth/45 lbs.
Light=early tq curve

the add is saying 27 Lbs. Is that all that bad? I don't know. I know the aluminum ones are keeping the rotating weight down, and should rev up quicker, and free up more H.P. I have also heard the heavier flywheels in motion, don't drop the r.p.m.'s as quicker between shifts. This is what i have heard, don't know what is right. Would an extra $500. put in a different part of the car make more h.p for us that can't afford a $600. flywheel, or is this $ well spent.

Thanks for any info.
I appreciate it.
T.J.

 

[Rob R]

There's absolutely NOTHING wrong with anything that 440'sRus sells...But if you want to make POWER there are other places to go.
That water pump housing that they sell...it's a water flow problem...That distributer that they sell is locked out...no centrifugal adv...and that flywheel is just too heavy...it's been kicking around the shop for a year and nobody's ever asked if they can have it...it's there for the taking.So it gets used as a door stop...I also have a purple cam that we stick in the front door jam to keep it open...
Your comment on alum flywheels and pulling away from the lights being a pain... IMHO is just a matter of the right tune and clutch.
340's with 25lbs taken out of the reciprocating Assembly mass the power band starts 750 rpm sooner ...
But there are just as many cons to small blocks and alum wheels as there are pros.If I built the engine and I'm tuning the engine for the customer I'll try my best to talk him into an alum wheel.I'll bring a couple of different cars around that have alum wheels in them and let him drive them .
If I tell a customer to do something and it doesn't perform exactly like I dicribed...He doesn't have to pay me...

 

[res1vw21]

I gotta laugh, people spend a lot to lighten the rotating assembly of the engine, why wouldn't the flywheel be just as important? It helps a lot from what I have heard because 25lbs is A LOT. It spins quicker and you don't loose as much power, yes it will drop RMPs a little quicker but I have never had a problem bliping the throttle to keep it smooth. Easy power here guys.

 

[mshred]

the add is saying 27 Lbs. Is that all that bad? I don't know. I know the aluminum ones are keeping the rotating weight down, and should rev up quicker, and free up more H.P. I have also heard the heavier flywheels in motion, don't drop the r.p.m.'s as quicker between shifts. This is what i have heard, don't know what is right. Would an extra $500. put in a different part of the car make more h.p for us that can't afford a $600. flywheel, or is this $ well spent.

Thanks for any info.
I appreciate it.
T.J.

Let's put it this way, the stock peice is not that great to begin with...its all a matter of opinion, but ask any guy who has had an explosion and im sure he will tell you...now think after years of use how much wear and such, its probably a good idea to upgrade...i mean after all, its 100 lousy dollars right? that 100 bucks could save your feet if you ever miss a shift, even worse if you dont have a limiter (and we all know that missed shifts can soar in rpms)

Now about aluminum vs. steel...unless you have an adjustable clutch (i.e. slipper clutch) that is setup correctly, the lighter wheel isn't going to do much...slipper clutches have done away with heavy flywheels, but unless you have something like a soft lok in your car i wouldnt bother...the whole point of the flywheel is to store energy, so the lighter the wheel the less energy it stores, and you need that energy to get down the track...at the same time though you dont want the flywheel to be so heavy that all that stored energy is impossible to move...in the case of an aluminum flywheel, they can work well in light cars, cars with low rear gear ratios, cars with huge tranny first gears, etc...however, if the car is heavier and not an all out race effort, you'll want the extra stored energy from the heavier wheel, otherwise it wont be beneficial and you'll have problems launching the car i.e. bogging at the line...now all this being said, every combo is different and who knows, your car may respond well to an aluminum wheel- but if it doesnt, your out 600 bucks...thats the way i see it, take it or leave it...many have picked up switching to an aluminum wheel, but just as many have been hurt by it

just remember back in the day when there were no slipper clutches to compensate for launching, they would go to a HEAVIER flywheel to help the launch and not have bogging...were not back in the 60's, but if you dont have a slipper clutch, pretend you are lol

my .02 cents8)...good luck!

 

[mshred]

There's absolutely NOTHING wrong with anything that 440'sRus sells...But if you want to make POWER there are other places to go.
That water pump housing that they sell...it's a water flow problem...That distributer that they sell is locked out...no centrifugal adv...and that flywheel is just too heavy...it's been kicking around the shop for a year and nobody's ever asked if they can have it...it's there for the taking.So it gets used as a door stop...I also have a purple cam that we stick in the front door jam to keep it open...
Your comment on alum flywheels and pulling away from the lights being a pain... IMHO is just a matter of the right tune and clutch.
340's with 25lbs taken out of the reciprocating Assembly mass the power band starts 750 rpm sooner ...
But there are just as many cons to small blocks and alum wheels as there are pros.If I built the engine and I'm tuning the engine for the customer I'll try my best to talk him into an alum wheel.I'll bring a couple of different cars around that have alum wheels in them and let him drive them .
If I tell a customer to do something and it doesn't perform exactly like I dicribed...He doesn't have to pay me...

well, you havent even ran the wheel, but your claiming its garbage because of its weight? lol...pretty invalid claim if you ask me..seems your feelings towards 440source got in the way there
and thats right, clutch is everything when it comes to the flywheel...unless hes running an adjustable slipper clutch, then really the aluminum wheel isnt going to do much if anything, and may actually hurt him...if he was running an adjustable clutch, then he's probably in the territory of a pretty fast stick shift car, and in that case the aluminum wheel may be worth it...but so far we dont know since he hasn't said, and for a car that is a compromise in both, the billet steel wheel at 99 bucks is hard to beat...to even say that the stock unit is lighter and just as good is just nonsense...there's a reason that sfi approved flywheels have to be billet steel or aluminum

 

[Demon 408]

Sorry to steer this away from the flywheel discussion...but here's an old post of mine with the Quicktime Bell: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=60549