Blowing Cold

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Jim Kueneman

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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Location
Sonoita, Az
Those that watched my 72 Duster for my daughter build a few years ago may realize or remember that I struggle with the factory air conditioner and I was hell-bent to make it work. It never worked well the pressures were high to the point where the clutch would slip and I just couldn’t figure it out. Well I’ll have to say over the last month I found an AC Guru that actually encouraged me and helped me over the hump to learn the pieces of information that I was missing on air conditioning. I finally have this air conditioning working amazing. The aftermarket TVX valves are for the most part junk but I found a Murray style that can be adjusted to the point where the factory AC with R134 will hang icicles off the ducts. I’m a couple months away from having the Valiant build with factory air-conditioning to the point where I should be trying to get the AC working. That point I will make a video and or an article to post here on how to actually measure and dial in your air conditioning system. If you expect to just bolt on new parts and use some rule of thumb for charge amount and expect it work well you will likely be disappointed. For those who know air conditioning you will know the importance of those two numbers for superheat and sub cooling. With out-of-the-box parts the super heat was 76° And with a charge based on the 85% rule the sub cooling was in the 50° range. The charge was based on the sub cooling number to get about 20° and the TBX was adjusted to get about 20° superheat and now this AC system will freeze you out And the pressures are low low low

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interested in learning what you have to tell! I will be assembling everything in the coming months and need all the help I can get on getting the factory AC system working with 134a. I have a four seasons valve that just showed up. tell me its not a bad one?
 
What sort of OD and passenger compartment temps did you have?
 
interested in learning what you have to tell! I will be assembling everything in the coming months and need all the help I can get on getting the factory AC system working with 134a. I have a four seasons valve that just showed up. tell me its not a bad one?

back when I was using those valves I had no idea what I was doing so maybe they will work. We will find out together.
 
Also keen on learning a bit more - my Vintage Air system is OK....but I'm sure there is room for improvement. It gets pretty warm in the business end of an A100 in summer time.... :D
 
Also keen on learning a bit more - my Vintage Air system is OK....but I'm sure there is room for improvement. It gets pretty warm in the business end of an A100 in summer time.... :D

I will try to put together a video explaining it this weekend. On the Valiant I can show doing it in real-time
 
I will try to put together a video explaining it this weekend. On the Valiant I can show doing it in real-time
Looking forward to that....I'm already subscribed to your channel. :)

I will try and list what components are in my system. It has only been installed 10 years now. :rolleyes:
 
Where and what had you been attempting to use for TXV? Were they designed for R134A? I'm assuming you properly mounted and insulated the sensor bulbs.................

Also where did you get a TXV that fit the original fittings, or did you have to change / adapt those somehow?
 
Looking forward to that....I'm already subscribed to your channel. :)

I will try and list what components are in my system. It has only been installed 10 years now. :rolleyes:

no need. You need a set of gauges and a accurate way to measure temps on the lines. Not a temp gun, real K-type thermocouples or AC clamp on thermometers.
 
Where and what had you been attempting to use for TXV? Were they designed for R134A? I'm assuming you properly mounted and insulated the sensor bulbs.................

Also where did you get a TXV that fit the original fittings, or did you have to change / adapt those somehow?

many companies make Chrysler type replacement TXVs. I have seen 3 unique designs across 4-5 rebranded units. The probe gets shoved in the low line.
 
Those that watched my 72 Duster for my daughter build a few years ago may realize or remember that I struggle with the factory air conditioner and I was hell-bent to make it work. It never worked well the pressures were high to the point where the clutch would slip and I just couldn’t figure it out. Well I’ll have to say over the last month I found an AC Guru that actually encouraged me and helped me over the hump to learn the pieces of information that I was missing on air conditioning. I finally have this air conditioning working amazing. The aftermarket TVX valves are for the most part junk but I found a Murray style that can be adjusted to the point where the factory AC with R134 will hang icicles off the ducts. I’m a couple months away from having the Valiant build with factory air-conditioning to the point where I should be trying to get the AC working. That point I will make a video and or an article to post here on how to actually measure and dial in your air conditioning system. If you expect to just bolt on new parts and use some rule of thumb for charge amount and expect it work well you will likely be disappointed. For those who know air conditioning you will know the importance of those two numbers for superheat and sub cooling. With out-of-the-box parts the super heat was 76° And with a charge based on the 85% rule the sub cooling was in the 50° range. The charge was based on the sub cooling number to get about 20° and the TBX was adjusted to get about 20° superheat and now this AC system will freeze you out And the pressures are low low low

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What TXV valve did you use?
 
I use HC refrigerant (Duracool) w/ PAO68 oil in all my vehicles, even my 2002 Chrysler (after its AC clutch failed). Don't believe the claims from unschooled that it can "explode", since most never took a graduate engineering course on combustion. Works slightly better than Freon. I have an underdash knee-knocker in my 3 1960's Mopars since none had factory AC. They have an integral brass expansion valve similar to old Mopars. A custom climate box w/ AC would fit nicer but then couldn't use the dash knobs. I installed a water valve in all, vacuum-operated 1-tube from a 12V vac switch actuated when the knee-knocker is "on" (ran wire from inside into engine bay via unused bulkhead terminal). Probably overkill since the heater fan isn't run during AC anyway.
 
So is this one you like and had good luck with or one to avoid. I'm trying to get you to be specific. You say you have seen 3 unique designs, I have no idea what/ where those were/ are.

I did all that several years ago so it is a bit foggy what the brands and designs were. That Murray one I just bought lasted all but a couple days before it would not work..... I had ordered one from Classic Auto Air but they take a few weeks to get it out so it was on order when I bought the Murray locally. I have been crazy busy the last few weeks dealing with some family things but did put the Classic Auto Air TXV on and we took it on a 500 mile trip to a show last weekend through 75F to 100F temps. First thing is Classic get $70 for their valve vs half that for anywhere else. The valve I received was different. I was expecting just the same old Murray, Four Seasons, or other common aftermarket low quality design but it was different so maybe they have put some thought and engineering money into their own valve. All I can say is with the Classic Auto Air and charging it with the correct amount of freon buy measuring the subcooling it worked not as great as the Coronet but we did not sweat the entire trip. if the temps were below 90 it worked great and it felt cool. Above 90 it was not uncomfortable but it left you wishing it was about 5 degrees colder. Before above 90 it did so little that it was uncomfortable enough you would rather have the windows open. This weekend it is supposed to be 110F in Tucson so I am going to spend some time looking at a few optimizations in the heat... you really need to do your testing in the heat to know if it is working. I will make a video of that work this weekend.
 
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