Body Filler

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While I am not a body man, I have always used All Metal (aluminized) filler.
Though it is harder to work with it does seem to hold up very well over time.
 
I used All-Metal over all seams on my car and 3 years later all is well. Roof seams, quarter seams, everywhere there was factory lead.
 
66jim said:
I have always used All Metal (aluminized) filler.
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I have had pretty good results using metal filler, then use your average filler on top. I use the smear- pick-up-re smear method of applying any type of filler. I have seen an older body man use this technique, he said he like having the extra juice on the body panel.
 
It's Rage gold for me all the way! Sands good, uses less paper and holds up well. It's more expensive but worth it.
 
Fiberglass strengthened (bondo)packed tightly around welds. Then you could use anything that floats your bowl.
Ive done cars 30 years ago no issues.
 
I would not use regular type plastic filler over an area that has been patched from rust or on seams.
Body people don't like using All Metal or Fiberglass because it is much harder to work. Do the job as Dicer recommends and it will likely hold up well. I cant count
the number of slick pro jobs that look great for a few years only to crack and bubble
because all they use is plastic over everything.
 
I've heard all metal will crack if it goes over a seam that flexes. Like it would be fine for the quarter to roof seam where there is normally the lead solder but it might not work if say you just did a small patch panel on your lower quarter.
 
I treat welds with an acid, neutralize it, then use a good epoxy primer before it before any filler. Any filler that has to be thicker than normal, I use fiberglass reinforced filler. Or do it like they did back in the day, with lead! It worked and works.
The better fillers like Rage Gold are worth the extra costs.
 
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