bodyline gaps

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Dart_Guy

Dart_Guy

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Hi all. I am in the process of tearing down my car for a complete bodywork and paint over the next year or two. My 69 Dart currently has a fairly large gap between the door and rear quarter. What should the width of the gap be? I am kind of nervous about it being so large on my car and getting it right. The previous owner had replaced the front fender, so I am hoping he just didn't put it back together correctly...

In the pic attached you can see the door is clearly crocked. I fixed that by adjusting the door post latch. the front fender is also a replacement from an unknown year. I am looking to replace it as well, as the car was hit and the fender is tweaked a bit.

Suggestions and what should the width be?

DSCN111bodlylines.JPG
 
The fit of body panels on these cars was never all that good. Even from the factory they had so so fit at best. I don't know of a proper gap that they should be. I just try to make them even and exeptable to me.
 
thanks.

I never worked with a car and the body panels so it is all new to me. I alwasy thought that uneven gaps was a sign that it had bigger problems. But after fixing some of the issues wiht jsut some minor adjustments, I reliazed that it could also be a sign of someone not taking the time to put it back together properly. Hopefully my problem is not serious.
 
Burntorange70 is right sometimes they didn't fit to start out with.You should be able to get all the gaps pretty close to the same.It not hard to adjust the panels but if you never done it before I guess you may have a hardtime with it.If your doing the paint and body yourself find someone who can help you line up your panels.I try to keep my gaps at 3/16.
Jim
 
By looking at the picture, I can see your door is low compared to the top of the quarter. Try to adjust ther door and that should help some.
 
Thanks for all the input.

Raising the door does make some sense on getting it lined up... I got quit a bit to do before I start aligning the panels and doors.

I was more worried there was a major problem because the lady I bought the car from didn't tell me about the hit and when I asked she said she didn't now bad it was. It was pretty obvious it got hit even to the untrained eye.

But the more you guys are telling me the less I am worried... Thanks!
 
I use a paint stick to measure my gaps. I would rather have to wide then to close. I have a nice chip on the edge of my door from to close. It was fine till the clear went on the car.
 
Generally you work from back to front when hanging and aligning sheetmetal. As mentioned, back in the day, production tolerances were such that gaps can vary quite a bit from car to car. Sometimes you have to make compromises that simply look good to the eye. Once the door is aligned to the rear quarter, you adjust the front fender - but that can be more involved than you want to get into.

Start by making sure the hinge pins aren't worn. Then, adjust the door up and down, fore and aft by loosening (just enough) the hinge to cowl bolts. Two of those bolts are accessed behind the kick panels. The hinge to door bolts allow adjustment in and out away from the body. Loosen one hinge at a time and make minor adjustments. A padded jack under the door and/or a helper can make it easier. The striker bolt may need readjustment or replacement too.

Judging by your picture, the door is definitely drooping at the rear. If the hinges aren't worn it may be as simple as loosening either the top or the bottom hinge on the cowl side, pulling the door up a little higher than level, and retightening the bolts. The striker will need to be move too.
 
70Duster440 said:
Generally you work from back to front when hanging and aligning sheetmetal. As mentioned, back in the day, production tolerances were such that gaps can vary quite a bit from car to car. Sometimes you have to make compromises that simply look good to the eye. Once the door is aligned to the rear quarter, you adjust the front fender - but that can be more involved than you want to get into.

Start by making sure the hinge pins aren't worn. Then, adjust the door up and down, fore and aft by loosening (just enough) the hinge to cowl bolts. Two of those bolts are accessed behind the kick panels. The hinge to door bolts allow adjustment in and out away from the body. Loosen one hinge at a time and make minor adjustments. A padded jack under the door and/or a helper can make it easier. The striker bolt may need readjustment or replacement too.

Judging by your picture, the door is definitely drooping at the rear. If the hinges aren't worn it may be as simple as loosening either the top or the bottom hinge on the cowl side, pulling the door up a little higher than level, and retightening the bolts. The striker will need to be move too.
Click to expand...

this helps! It makes sense to start at the doors and work your way forward. It is good to get advice from people who have experience with this... The fenders are already off it, so I will get a crash course in all this work.
 
When adjusting a door that's quite a bit out of alignment, like your's is, I find that if you remove the striker from the door post, it's a lot easier to get the proper alignment. Once the striker is removed, you don't have to worry about it throwing off your adjustments each time you close the door to check the body gaps. When the doors are properly aligned with the body, then install and adjust the front fenders. And as Adam mentioned, don't close the gaps up too much or you'll peel the paint right off the edges firat time you open your doors. Paint and clearcoat has an amazinz ammount of thickness when it gets built up on the door and fender edges. Of course, all doors, fenders, hood, trunk lid, etc. should be test fitted and properly aligned before the paint goes on, even if you're painting it all in pieces.
 
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