Bodywork/Paint

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plymouth71

The Moomobile
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Thought about starting the bodywork and paint on my SCAMP.I plan on removing the vinyl top in the process,because i want to fix/paint the top to match the car.Would this be wise if i plan to put a new top on?Also thought about going with a base coat/clear coat paint,what do you all think???Any suggestions,points or advise would be appreciated.
 
I would go to the body/paint sections on this site. You may get some info on this one but Some of the guys dont come on the slant 6 section at all.
Frank
 
If you plan on putting a new top one you can paint under it how ever they will have to scuff the clear to glue the new top down.. At the shop I worked at we would either leave the roof in primer or spray base only if there was a top being installed.
 
If you plan on putting a new top one you can paint under it how ever they will have to scuff the clear to glue the new top down.. At the shop I worked at we would either leave the roof in primer or spray base only if there was a top being installed.

BIG mistake! Primer and/or base is open pour and moisture will get through it. Clear it to seal it then they can scuff the clearcoat. Itsa choice you will have to make.

My personal opinion is to spend the cash and BC/CC. It will be the last paintjob you will ever need if done properly. Some folks on this site prefer Single stage finishes. Do your homework on different finishes/vendors. I use PPG products as well as ALSA products. Both are "Quality" products.

If you are a novice bodyman take your time and spend the cash for the right products. I NEVER use Bondo!!!! Roof to 1/4 seams will need to be addressed. I always take the time to weld these seams so cracks won't appear later. Fill with "Allmetal" filler to smooth the seams and use Evercoat green label final coat to finish. There are many threads in here that you can refer too for more info. as stated by previous poster. Good luck and take your time. Bodywork cannot be rushed. Remember, primer does "not" seal the substrate. It must have final coat to stop moisture from entering. There are some 2K sealers that work if used properly.
 
I'll remember that for the future but thats how the guy doing the top wanted them. Its also how my Dart was under the original top.
 
I'll remember that for the future but thats how the guy doing the top wanted them. Its also how my Dart was under the original top.

No pun intended!
But my buddies 72 Blown Cuda had the same thing done(not by me!!) and it started bubbling under the top where the trim is along the bottom of the top. Rust has started and that beautiful black top will have to come off to be repaired.I have seen it a dozen times.
 
On most cars (not just Mopars) the roof was not painted the same color as the car under the vinyl. They are usually primer (some high end Fords were painted white), that is part of the reason you always find nasty surprises under the top when you peel it off. I scrapped my plans to build a 76 Granada when I pulled part of the vinyl and could stick my WHOLE ARM into the back seat area! My 68 Galaxie had a nice gloss white under the top (original to the green car) and zero rust. If there is a way to do it better than the factory, I'm all for it! You do need some type of a sealer under a "wet sponge roof".
 
Also, just my opinion, but vinyl tops WERE created by Satan to eat cars from the top down.
 
I agree totally, and just reflecting on the 50+ cars I have owned, never had a vinyl top car. :D


Wish I could say the same, but I can say that every one of them got that crap scraped off and re-painted. Vinyl tops are right up there with rust on my "things I hate about old cars" list.
 
Thanks to all for the imfo.I may wait until spring to start the prep n paint.I have a good idea of what i want,but i am going to try to secure a bake room before i start,or about half way through it.I am not sure if i will go with a new top or not,will have to study on that one a little longer.Thanks again.
 
I was unsure about whether I wanted to keep my vinyl top or not, but this thread convinced me to nix it when I repaint, so thanks from me too! I never realized what a problem they could be long-term before!
 
I am starting the body work and paint on my dart and this site has a ton of info on it for the beginner and for the most part everyone there is willing to help. Since it is dedicated to auto body work you may have better luck there
http://www.autobodystore.com/
 
I have seen folks use chipguard for the simulated textured surface and paint the roof whatever color the top was originally. Just add some flattening agent to desired finish. I have also seen wrinkle paint used but that left a rough texture.
 
Whether you use the vinyl or not you must take care of whatever you find. Going the final step in prepping for paint isn't that much additional to do. The extra paint and materials to include the roof won't (or shouldn't) add that much more, if any, to the cost of the job. I say repair, prep and paint with whatever you are using on the rest of the car even if you put vinyl back on.

As to whether or not to put it back, if you liked the looks of it, why not? You must remember that most of these cars were pretty abused by the time we got them to rebuild. I doubt the one I bought had seen soap & water in the previous 10-15 years. A tear in the vinyl only made things worse. Do you plan to treat the car like that? Hope not. If you take care of it the vinyl can last a long time and be fairly unique today. (Insert pic of first car we restored).

Last, the idea that if the factory didn't do it, we needn't bother doing better... Let's see, factory didn't put 15" wheels on our cars, 8 3/4" rears, many V8's, Basecoat-Clearcoat, etc., etc. But for some reason we like to do these things...
 

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