Bolt help

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Shamrock--WV2NC

Shamrock--WV2NC

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I got a eddy 2176 to put on my 318. I plan on putting it on in 3 weeks. Can I use original bolts or should I order new from summit? If you suggest new a part number would be great.
 
I use studs usually, the local hardware store should have them.
 
if the old ones are good, the only reason to change them out would be to get nice looking shiny bolts on there...functionally, the stockers are just fine
 
I haven't taken the stock intake off yet. Diymirage I'm cool with reusing the original ones. So hops your saying if they aren't reusable I can scoot to local hardware store and get replacements?
 
There is nothing super critical about those particular bolts. With the new AL intake, make sure they all have flat washers under the heads so you don't gouge the new intakes surface around the holes.
 
If they are in good condition there is no reason to replace them, unless you are picky about appearance. Those are common grade 5 (3 point) bolts
 
halifaxhops said:
I use studs usually, the local hardware store should have them.
Click to expand...

This does not sound like a good idea to me. What happens if one gets a little sticky/ rusty, you are down in that corner using pliers? to get it out?
 
If you are going to re-use the old bolts, chase the threads with a die...
 
krazykuda said:
If you are going to re-use the old bolts, chase the threads with a die...
Click to expand...
a die Karl? I would think thread chaser/restorer more like... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-27142/overview/
oes-27142_xl.jpg
 
I love using studs in place of bolts whenever I can; however, it adds one more step if you ever decide to replace the intake ... they go in at an angle & would need to be removed (not just the nuts / washers) before you could lift it off the heads.
 
Studs, are you nuts??? (Pun studs ---> nuts...)

I prefer bolts over studs as they are cheaper and the stud has extra threads sticking up above the nut...

Bolts have better clearance, especially on the oil pump where the stud and nut hang the oil pump from sealing flat....
 
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If you're going to swap it a lot, use studs.

In no circumstances should you use Chinese made fasteners.
 
jos51700 said:
If you're going to swap it a lot, use studs.

In no circumstances should you use Chinese made fasteners.
Click to expand...
I'm curious how you can change intakes a lot w/ studs? As this is a 318 (not 5.2L) the studs wouldn't be vertical ... Edelbrock 2176 doesn't have provisions for bolting to Magnum heads.

Maybe I'm missing something ...
 
jos51700 said:
If you're going to swap it a lot, use studs.

In no circumstances should you use Chinese made fasteners.
Click to expand...

Studs stretch just as much as a comparable bolt... Eventually will over stretch and break just like a bolt...

Threads are threads...
 
typopup said:
I'm curious how you can change intakes a lot w/ studs? As this is a 318 (not 5.2L) the studs wouldn't be vertical ... Edelbrock 2176 doesn't have provisions for bolting to Magnum heads.

Maybe I'm missing something ...
Click to expand...
You're not missing anything..... for an LA, you would have to pull the studs each time.
 
typopup said:
I'm curious how you can change intakes a lot w/ studs? As this is a 318 (not 5.2L) the studs wouldn't be vertical ... Edelbrock 2176 doesn't have provisions for bolting to Magnum heads.

Maybe I'm missing something ...
Click to expand...

Nope, I'm a dumbass and was thinking he was asking about carburetor bolts, not intake bolts.

Err..... no, you can use studs. don't you know the trick? I bet you'd like to know the trick.
Yeah, that's it.

krazykuda said:
Studs stretch just as much as a comparable bolt... Eventually will over stretch and break just like a bolt...

Threads are threads...
Click to expand...

Not true. From a strength/fatigue standpoint, studs and bolts are the same.
From a tensioning standpoint, studs can offer better control over turning torque because you eliminate any residual shear load applied to the fastener during torquing that could alter the measurement of torque in a shear-load application.

Additionally, wear in an aluminum hole during repeated fastening is sidestepped when a stud is used.
 
jos51700 said:
Not true. From a strength/fatigue standpoint, studs and bolts are the same.
From a tensioning standpoint, studs can offer better control over turning torque because you eliminate any residual shear load applied to the fastener during torquing that could alter the measurement of torque in a shear-load application..
Click to expand...

You still have shear forces acting on the clamping face of the nut/washer as you get to clamp load...
 
krazykuda said:
You still have shear forces acting on the clamping face of the nut/washer as you get to clamp load...
Click to expand...

Agree, but the same is true of a screw or bolt.

With a stud, shear friction does not accumulate along the shank as it does with a screw or bolt, and so tightening torque is unaffected by applied shear loads.
Think: removing a leaf spring bolt with the weight of the car on the bolt. There's so much shear load you'd never get it out (and you'd risk getting squished if you did). But with the weight off of it, it spins easily in the bore.

That same shear load applies as you try to tighten a screw or bolt passing through something. The stud side steps that.
 
ooooh kay now i see where the confusion is coming from
you are replacing the intake manifold, not the carburator (thats what i get for not googling the part number you mentioned)

everything we said stands, except for the studs (those only work for the carb, in this scenario)

so, option 1 clean the old ones and reuse
option 2 take the old ones to the hardware shop and buy new ones

good idea: run a chaser tap through the existing bolt holes to ensure they are nice and clean

now, one thing we havent mentioned yet is sealant on those bolt
you are going to want to use something (i wont tell you what, that would be like me telling you to pick Ginger over Mary-Anne) because if you don't, oil will wick up those bolts and puddle on top of your manifold
 
Also, verify torque specs for an aluminium intake. If you use the stock cast iron intake specs, you could damage the aluminium intake. Years ago, I had a friend who thought that the plugs that you screw into the intake to block off holes not being used, were supposed to be screwed in flush on the intake. He cracked the intake. The fittings are tapered pipe thread. Just mentioned it just in case you don't know. As to the bolt question, I would buy a nice set of stainless from Summit. I like things clean, and neat.
 
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